Camera Man Loc: Michigan

Check out this YouTube should be very helpful https://youtu.be/ut7R4ErtrCk. I hope that I did it right. Good luck.

jblazar Loc: Sunnyvale, CA

So here is an answer from B&H about the use of the viewfinder, and also about the NOT recommended use of neutral density filters.

Richard

Perhaps I've overlooked it, but for all of the astronomy guidance you omit a common B&H customer scenario - a photographer with objective ND filters (also an unanswered question by Darryl Hendricks 3 weeks ago).

It seems that a 100,000x reduction is needed, which works out to ~16.5 stops of ND to safely view and compose with an optical viewfinder. Although stacking a couple filters may be less than ideal, how does it compare to a white spectrum solar filter?

reply quote

3 hours ago
Christopher Witt

Good morning,

This is a common question, and I apologize for not seeing this sooner. The issue with ND filters is that since they are designed for photography, there is no ultraviolet (UV) or infrared (IR) blocking to them, so while the intense bright light will be brought down to a safe level, your eye would receive an enormous amount of UV and IR radiation that can cause catastrophic harm to your eyes - and since we have no pain receptors for radiation, you won't know it's happening until it's too late. You need to ensure you use filters that are certified for "Safe Direct Solar Viewing"...currently the most reliable of these is the ISO 12312-1:2015.

As an aside, if you are using ND filters on your camera make sure you don't use an optical viewfinder as you'll run into the same issue as outlined above. ONLY use ND filters if you have a digital viewfinder or are planning on using the 'live-view' feature on the rear display screen. If you don't know what kind of viewfinder your camera has, DO NOT use an ND filter until you find out.

Bill_de Loc: US

That makes it all pretty clear. Thank for posting.

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skh1454

Yes, a pity since they are a leader in this area. But it appears that Amazon still carries Thousand Oaks Optical SolarLite film for those interested in assembling their own filter and the Daystar Filters mentioned by others uses TOO SolarLite. Those who still need a filter should act soon.

wlb56

I have had good luck using an F2as ,removing the viewfinder and using a Meade 4.5" schmit-cassegren reflector lens(1000mm) with a thick cardboard over the end of the lens with a single pinhole off center.

Collie lover Loc: St. Louis, MO

I bought a filter for my Canon 80D, but later found out online how to make one. The filter can be used to take pictures of the sun at any time.

Collie lover Loc: St. Louis, MO

I'm going to do a mock run before the event. Instead of being with a crowd of people, many without cameras or using cell phones who will probably get in the way of those with cameras, I'm going to set up in a field in front of my house. Will go out about the time the eclipse is to occur and take some pics using the equipment I plan on using. I have a Canon 80D. I did buy a filter and have been told it can be used to take pictures of the sun at other times. After I bought my filter, I found out online how to make them. I have a Sigma 150-600 C lens, but was told I could use a wide angle lens to get the various stages of the eclipse.

Wanderer2 Loc: Colorado Rocky Mountains

I too can shoot the eclipse from a field in front of my house - lucky us!! Your Sigma should work very well for the eclipse but the sun will be tiny using a wide angle lens. There are websites which show the size of the sun as it will appear in the photo at different focal lengths that are helpful- If I call correctly MrEclipse.com is one of them. You are wise to practice and may want to do more than one mock run. Don't forget getting solar eye glasses if you don't already have them.

Rogers

You can get a close idea of the size of the sun's image if you try your lenses while looking at the moon at night.

sjb3

I made and tested a solar filter from a 4x4 sheet of Black Polymer ordered from Thousand Oaks thru Amazon; after cutting it to size I sandwiched it between a filter adapter for my camera's model and a plain glass skylight filter. Total cost less than 30 dollars. At max zoom my Fuji S-1 will show a very nice-sized Sun being slowly covered by the Moon; at that magnification, not having a solar filter would ruin the sensor. I'll twist it off to get some shots of the corona during the 2 min/20 secs of totality, then twist it back on to shoot the Moon as it moves off. I'll also be using my little GoPro Hero 5 in timelapse mode and wide FOV. It will be on a tripod, and the wide angle will show the house and front yard, with a nice big expanse of southern sky. The Sun will be at an altitude of about 65 degrees and I'm planning a total shooting time of 80 minutes, with a 5-second interval between shots, yielding 960 stills to process into a video just over 30 seconds long, but showing the high point of the eclipse. I'll have a Freewell ND32 filter over the lens to cut down on the glare from the Sun. I've shot into the Sun with the camera unfiltered and done no damage, mainly because the Sun was a tiny part of the overall wide-angle picture. I'll be busy with the other camera, so I'll just leave the GoPro alone to do its thing.

wesm Loc: Los Altos CA

What about using a UV filter and Solar-filter in combination? I got a Firecrest 18-stop visible-light and IR filter. Would the UV filter help?

rmm0605 Loc: Atlanta GA

Not in the least. Stick with the 18 stopper.

Frutchey Loc: Longwood, FL

Can I use an infrared filter to photograph the eclipse?

rmm0605 Loc: Atlanta GA

Only when the sun is totally blocked by the moon--during totality.

Frutchey Loc: Longwood, FL

Rmn0605
Thanks