CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

I am sorta in the path...90% so I decided to take the day off and head up the mountain...but being new to the dslr world.... I am not sure how to go about photographing it. So I am posting my questions to you guys:

1. Nikon D5300 - I have 3 lens currently - 18-55mm (kit), 70-300mm (kit) and a tamron 15-600mm --- which lens should I use?
2. Would these filters work if I use either the 15-55 or 70-300, I don't have any filters yet.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart_accessories&A=details&Q=&sku=1319796&is=REG&bundleId=1319796REG
3. I have the glasses already on order
4. I have a good tripod
5. I have a remote trigger
6. From everything I have read so far...I want my iso as low as I can get but my shutter speed as high as I can get.....right?
7. What about other settings on the Nikon...Should Focus mode be set to Manual? If not, then would I set it to AF-S for Single-Servo?
8. AF-area mode Single Point or Center?
9. Metering - I am thinking Center weighted?
10. Exposure compensation....should this be set to anything specific?

I soooo appreciate any help I can get! If i missed anything....please let me know?

Cindy

Tet68survivor Loc: Pomfret Center CT

Bring a Smart Phone connected to NASA so you can keep tabs of where it is hitting the ground. There is a free piece of software available that was on this site that is pretty cool, it may be in archives.

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

That would be cool..but I don't have a smart phone..at least not yet!

rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA

The filters are only applicable when the Sun is not yet in totality to prevent the unfiltered sunlight from frying your camera's sensor not to mention your eyeballs. Only look at the filtered sun via Live View or something similar on the LCD screen on the back of your camera. Once you are into totality and the Sun's corona is visible, the solar filters will not be necessary until the shadow starts to move again. Your 5300 can do exposure bracketing, google around to discover how. I'd set for +-1 stop for a 3 image sequence, =1, 0, -1 and click away. Pixels are free.

Your Tamron 600 would be, IMHO, ideal as you would fill the viewfinder with the filtered disk of the sun. Your camera is being flooded with a single point solar light source which can, at low ISOs, overwhelm your sensor. The last eclipse I shot in 2012 was at 3 sec, f/5.6 and ISO 1000. With a 9x ND filter. It was a last minute thing and I had to use whatever I could find at a local pro camera store that would fit my lens, which was the kit 18-55 zoom. Real slap dash.

What is the filter size for the Tamron? I checked and found 95mm, so the filter you listed won't work. I am sure the specialized eclipse filters are either sold out or pricy right now. Shop around for something that fits your desired lens, get it and practice on the sun.

And please, do not look at the unfiltered sun with a zoom lens through the viewfinder.

rmm0605 Loc: Atlanta GA

95mm is correct for the objective end of the Tamron 150- 600.

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

Thanks so much for taking the time to respond! Since I am not in the totality area, only like 87% to 90% - I am thinking I am not going to be able to remove the filters at all. Plus I promise to use the live view and to be very careful.

I will google how to setup for exposure bracketing...I haven't played with that setting yet.

I will search online for a 95mm solar filter and see I can find one at a reasonable price....since I will only use it this one time - I can't see paying a steep price for one, I think I will order the one's for the other lens just in case.

So I was backwards on my settings....I want a slower shutter speed with a higher ISO.

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

Thanks...now to see if I can find one!

ORpilot Loc: Prineville, Or

see other listings here about the eclipse. I have made 3 filters so far out of $20 of film I purchased from Spectrum Telescope, Carmarillo CA Happy Shooting

tricrzy

You wont see anything interesting unless you drive to an area that is in totality!!!!!! If you can't find a solar filter for your tamron lens, I suggest buying solar filter 4x4 sheets from B&H . You can make a cardboard frame and cut and tape the filter sheet into the frame. You want the frame easy to remove and replace so you can get C2, max totality (when you don't need the filter) and C3 shots of the eclipse. If you don't know what those are...start googling and you-tubing how to photograph the eclipse. Alan Dyer has a good short book.

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

I have seen a few posts where people have done that but I haven't had a chance to google how to do it yet. I might need to go that route...I haven't found a solar filter that is not Out of Stock at the moment

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

There is no way I can drive to the southern edge of the state and into Idaho to be in the totality area and get back to work for Tuesday morning...to far of a drive. I will look into creating a filter for the tamron...thanks for the info!

tricrzy

Have you looked at the map for totality? http://www.eclipse2017.org/2017/maps.html
There just isn't anything to photograph unless you go to totality!!!! If you are within 300 miles of totality then just drive there very early on the 21st.
I tried to book a hotel in Boise Idaho 2 months ago and there was nothing left under $500 for the night before.

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

I am using this map: http://shadowandsubstance.com/2017/States/Montana/Montana.html and it shows that we should still see something. I am all the way up in Kalispell and there is no way I can drive down to Dillon or below to get a better view....But per that map...we should still get a neat experience out of it.

Tet68survivor Loc: Pomfret Center CT

Welding supply company,#14 welders glass lens, 2.5" in dia, other sizes may be available, stack 2 test, 1 is minimum! About $6.00

Tet68survivor Loc: Pomfret Center CT

The hell with work! This is a once in a lifetime thing, you can get another job lol!