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Photography Paper or plain bond printing paper.
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Jun 28, 2012 09:04:05   #
PhotoArtsLA Loc: Boynton Beach
 
If you have an inkjet printer, you need to use a coated paper, which come in all flavors, including the coated version of bond paper.

If you have a color laser, then you want 32 lb. 93+ brightness laser paper, if your printer can use it. Xerox color lasers do a very good, corporate job, and they are FAST for contact sheets. Making prints, though, deserves the ink jet, or "giclee" printer. Epson is the leader in inkjet photo technology.

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Jun 28, 2012 09:17:47   #
prestonphoto Loc: Bath, NY
 
Printing on bond paper is a total waste of ink and it has that washed out distorted look. I think I see the little guys in white coats coming - quick - get the photo paper out!!!

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Jun 28, 2012 10:58:46   #
jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ
 
Costco sells glossy photo paper at a reasonable price.

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Jun 28, 2012 11:00:20   #
CAM1017 Loc: Chiloquin, Oregon
 
Calvete wrote:
I know all of you have more experience than I do. I am just a beginner in photography so I do not know many things. I wonder if you could use a photography paper to have your photos done however it is not a bond printing paper enough if you want to have a quicky one ready?
Any answers on this?


for a fast check print the bond paper will work but not as a keeper. The quality of the image is not there.

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Jun 28, 2012 11:37:43   #
mooseeyes Loc: Sonora, California
 
You can use non-photographic paper, such as cheap uncoated and unsealed, copy paper, to do the initial proofing of your images. Photographic paper is coated and sealed, allowing the inks of your printer to attach and set properly (part of this process is the chemical difference between the ph of the paper coating and the ph of the ink. . .one being slightly "acid" and the other being slightly "base"). To use copy paper for your image proofing, all you need to do is properly coat and seal your paper beforehand.

First of all, since the paper used is organic, the sealer and coating must also be organic, to avoid any possibility of molecular rejection. I use a mixture of six fresh eggs and a splash of milk that is well mixed and applied to one side of the copy paper sheets (you might want to put an "X" on the side that will not be coated for easy ID of printer orientation latter). After applying a thin coat of your organic egg/milk mixture, this coating now needs to be set and bonded to the paper with heat. I recommend doing six sheets at a time, waiting until the coating is "tacky" (about 2 minutes), then put the treated sheets into the microwave, between white (very important) paper towels, and heat this stack in the microwave for 1 minute and 30 seconds on high.

When you take these out of the microwave, they will tend to curl towards the untreated side until fully cooled. To avoid this problem, I use a plant press and let the sheets cool and fully set for about 15 to 20 minutes. I am sure that placing some large books on the stack would work just fine. Since the coating/sealer material is organic, it is best to use the treated paper right away. If you don't, you can freeze the unused coated paper fairly well. Do not leave coated paper laying about, as the coating material with likely cause an ant problem. Also, if you want to be really creative, you can add coloring into your sealer/coating mixture. Using the standard 5 color food coloring kits found at most markets (also organic), you can play around with coloring your paper coating. Start with one drop, and experiment from there. A little bit goes a long way.

As a side benefit, if you end up with too much coating/sealer mixed up, you do not have to waste the mixture. The left over mixture will make a quite nice omelett. Because of the food coloring option, the resulting omelettes are quite stunning in appearance. I have named these festive omelettes "bazinga's"!

Of course if you find this coating copy paper process too daunting, you can always just buy and use already coated photographic paper, thus gaining immediate membership in the "I.Q. Greater Than Age Club". I know the choice is a tough one; however, most find it in themselves to take the path of enlightenment. :)

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Jun 28, 2012 12:21:49   #
sunsacre Loc: Western Minnesota
 
mooseeyes wrote:
You can use non-photographic paper, such as cheap uncoated and unsealed, copy paper, to do the initial proofing of your images. Photographic paper is coated and sealed, allowing the inks of your printer to attach and set properly (part of this process is the chemical difference between the ph of the paper coating and the ph of the ink. . .one being slightly "acid" and the other being slightly "base"). To use copy paper for your image proofing, all you need to do is properly coat and seal your paper beforehand.

First of all, since the paper used is organic, the sealer and coating must also be organic, to avoid any possibility of molecular rejection. I use a mixture of six fresh eggs and a splash of milk that is well mixed and applied to one side of the copy paper sheets (you might want to put an "X" on the side that will not be coated for easy ID of printer orientation latter). After applying a thin coat of your organic egg/milk mixture, this coating now needs to be set and bonded to the paper with heat. I recommend doing six sheets at a time, waiting until the coating is "tacky" (about 2 minutes), then put the treated sheets into the microwave, between white (very important) paper towels, and heat this stack in the microwave for 1 minute and 30 seconds on high.

When you take these out of the microwave, they will tend to curl towards the untreated side until fully cooled. To avoid this problem, I use a plant press and let the sheets cool and fully set for about 15 to 20 minutes. I am sure that placing some large books on the stack would work just fine. Since the coating/sealer material is organic, it is best to use the treated paper right away. If you don't, you can freeze the unused coated paper fairly well. Do not leave coated paper laying about, as the coating material with likely cause an ant problem. Also, if you want to be really creative, you can add coloring into your sealer/coating mixture. Using the standard 5 color food coloring kits found at most markets (also organic), you can play around with coloring your paper coating. Start with one drop, and experiment from there. A little bit goes a long way.

As a side benefit, if you end up with too much coating/sealer mixed up, you do not have to waste the mixture. The left over mixture will make a quite nice omelett. Because of the food coloring option, the resulting omelettes are quite stunning in appearance. I have named these festive omelettes "bazinga's"!

Of course if you find this coating copy paper process too daunting, you can always just buy and use already coated photographic paper, thus gaining immediate membership in the "I.Q. Greater Than Age Club". I know the choice is a tough one; however, most find it in themselves to take the path of enlightenment. :)
You can use non-photographic paper, such as cheap ... (show quote)


:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

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Jun 28, 2012 13:42:25   #
davejann Loc: Portland Oregon
 
CaptainC wrote:
Bond paper is only a small improvement over toilet paper.

If it is an image worth printing, use photo paper. The cheapest photo paper is 238% better than bond paper.


I have been told that 67.948% of all statistics are made up on the spot
;-)

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Jun 28, 2012 15:42:08   #
charlie31 Loc: North Ridgeville Ohio
 
I have used Red River paper for a long time.
You can send for a sample pack{cheap}.
They always have special deals----good luck

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Jun 28, 2012 17:02:44   #
Calvete Loc: Bolivia
 
I thank a lot to all of you people for the patience and for your answers and guidance ( always learn something) and for you humour.

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Jun 28, 2012 17:11:47   #
sodapop Loc: Bel Air, MD
 
I agree. (You may be off by 0.001%)

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Jun 28, 2012 21:47:59   #
Sweet Willie Loc: Texas
 
Behind the closed bathroom door, toilet paper will out perform printing
paper by 241%. Here you want the finished results to look like something I
will not write.
Sweet Willie

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Jun 28, 2012 23:55:20   #
Photogdog Loc: New Kensington, PA
 
CaptainC wrote:
Bond paper is only a small improvement over toilet paper.

If it is an image worth printing, use photo paper. The cheapest photo paper is 238% better than bond paper.


Hey Cap'n,

Are we talking one-ply or two-ply? And is it quilted Northern or that generic gas station bathroom stuff?

I think I'm going to try an experiment with paper towels. Maybe I'll use that quicker-picker-upper brand!

Heck, I might even get it it all the way down to 235%!

Seriously Calvete, there's enough sales going on at Staples, Office Max, Wal-Mart, etc to justify spending a few bucks on decent gloss or matte paper to check your images.

Look at it this way, if you use bond or something equally poor in quality and it looks bad, where's the problem: you, the camera, the computer, the printer, the paper or all of the above?

Do yourself a favor & take one more variable out of the equation

PD

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Jun 29, 2012 02:40:30   #
johnr9999 Loc: Carlton, OR
 
sodapop wrote:
CaptainC wrote:
Bond paper is only a small improvement over toilet paper.

If it is an image worth printing, use photo paper. The cheapest photo paper is 238% better than bond paper.


Agree. I would even go 239%

It has been proven that 89.31798% of all statistics are all made up on the spot to prove a point.
Sorry about that! Just read the previous post. But I still believe it was 89.31798%!

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Jun 29, 2012 10:29:39   #
richnash46 Loc: Texas
 
CaptainC wrote:
Bond paper is only a small improvement over toilet paper.

If it is an image worth printing, use photo paper. The cheapest photo paper is 238% better than bond paper.


Then again, if your images are "soft" then Charmin' Ultra Soft might just be the ticket!

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Jun 29, 2012 19:00:23   #
jdventer Loc: Wallingford, CT, USA
 
Inks are expensive.
You won't learn anything unless you use photo paper.
Your photos will look there best on photo paper and worse than a Zerox on plain paper.
Your work is worth much more than the cost of the photo paper.

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