I've been introduced to daytime long exposure photography. I've not yet taken any images, but would like to begin soon. In order to do so, I need to purchase a couple of neutral density (ND) filters. There is a wide range of prices ($20 - $124) for the same type filter. Can someone explain to me why the difference in pricing? It must be the materials used to fabricate the filter, right?
dioq61 wrote:
I've been introduced to daytime long exposure photography. I've not yet taken any images, but would like to begin soon. In order to do so, I need to purchase a couple of neutral density (ND) filters. There is a wide range of prices ($20 - $124) for the same type filter. Can someone explain to me why the difference in pricing? It must be the materials used to fabricate the filter, right?
The amount of materials are essentially the same in all of them. The relative prices are really a matter of quality. Quality as in research, development, coatings, clarity, precision, color shift, reputation, brass vs aluminum and quality control. Price alone doesn't guarantee quality, but it is a good indicator. I doubt anybody on UHH will recommend a $20 ND filter.
Breakthrough Photography is a new kid on the block and are getting good reviews. I am very pleased with the quality of the one I got, but I don't really have anything to compare it to.
dioq61 wrote:
I've been introduced to daytime long exposure photography. I've not yet taken any images, but would like to begin soon. In order to do so, I need to purchase a couple of neutral density (ND) filters. There is a wide range of prices ($20 - $124) for the same type filter. Can someone explain to me why the difference in pricing? It must be the materials used to fabricate the filter, right?
I'm pretty sure you get what you pay for.
I bought a variable density filter because I was in the same boat you're in. I really like it. Need to use it more.
I was in a photo class and was playing with my ND filter when my teacher drove by. He's doing about 10MPH getting ready to turn right.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-200957-1.htmlMarion
LEE Filters are hand made and recognised and used by most Pro photographers
including myself, as the best in the world.
Someone about remarked, "you get what you pay for".
In the case of LEE Filters, absolutely top quality.
http://www.leefilters.com/index.php/camera
If you went with the Lee's you could incorporate GND filters to balance the sky & match the horizon. Breakthrough will be coming up with some glass GND's but I don't think they have emerged as of yet. For daytime exposure I may use a Lee Little Stopper/Big Stopper in combination with a 3 stop soft or 3 stop hard depending on the horizon line. Once you go past a 6 stops you will have to learn hcorrection for the color cast but that's fairly easily done in post.
Keep in mind if you buy a foundation kit, 2 ND filters and the Little / Big Stopper, it will become very expensive. Adding to the kit slowly takes some of the pain away.
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
dioq61 wrote:
I've been introduced to daytime long exposure photography. I've not yet taken any images, but would like to begin soon. In order to do so, I need to purchase a couple of neutral density (ND) filters. There is a wide range of prices ($20 - $124) for the same type filter. Can someone explain to me why the difference in pricing? It must be the materials used to fabricate the filter, right?
Quality of the materials of the filter and glass determine price. You get what you pay for. I use Tiffen and I am pleased with the results.
dioq61 wrote:
I've been introduced to daytime long exposure photography. I've not yet taken any images, but would like to begin soon. In order to do so, I need to purchase a couple of neutral density (ND) filters. There is a wide range of prices ($20 - $124) for the same type filter. Can someone explain to me why the difference in pricing? It must be the materials used to fabricate the filter, right?
Don't neglect the profit motive and the idea that a higher price means higher quality. Below is a link to a good comparison.
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/10-Stop-Neutral-Density-Filter.aspx
Jeffcs
Loc: Myrtle Beach South Carolina
Marionsho wrote:
I'm pretty sure you get what you pay for.
I bought a variable density filter because I was in the same boat you're in. I really like it. Need to use it more.
I was in a photo class and was playing with my ND filter when my teacher drove by. He's doing about 10MPH getting ready to turn right.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-200957-1.htmlMarion
I too purchased a HAIDA brand variable ND filter paid over $100 for it
I get an awfull "X" shape running through the images with any ND dialed in above minimum so for me I waisted my money
In any case just wondering how it works for you
Do you have any luck with it
Am I missing something here
Thanks
I just started using the Cokin P Series filters and so far are quite happy with the results. For years I've used B&W screw-on filters, and they are very high quality. But the Cokin system allows me to adjust the graduated ND's up and down to meet the horizon. Not as expensive as the Lee system, and some reviewers find their holder is easier to use.
Jeffcs wrote:
I too purchased a HAIDA brand variable ND filter paid over $100 for it
I get an awfull "X" shape running through the images with any ND dialed in above minimum so for me I waisted my money
In any case just wondering how it works for you
Do you have any luck with it
Am I missing something here
Thanks
I got the same X shape at times. Not sure what I did to correct it. Typically I'll shoot about 1,000 shots every time I play with my ND filter. Lots of panning shots at the MX races.
Jeffcs wrote:
I too purchased a HAIDA brand variable ND filter paid over $100 for it
I get an awfull "X" shape running through the images with any ND dialed in above minimum so for me I waisted my money
In any case just wondering how it works for you
Do you have any luck with it
Am I missing something here
Thanks
The 'X' shade or 'maltesse cross' is a well known issue with variable ND filters. I believe it is in part related to using them on wide angle lenses and using too high of a strength. Try moving back, and zooming in and see if it helps.
It doesn't seem to be problem with 'fixed' ND's. - at least I haven't encountered it yet.
Jeffcs wrote:
I too purchased a HAIDA brand variable ND filter paid over $100 for it
I get an awfull "X" shape running through the images with any ND dialed in above minimum so for me I waisted my money
In any case just wondering how it works for you
Do you have any luck with it
Am I missing something here
Thanks
The X is a free feature included with every variable ND filter. It's a consequence of the physics in this particular universe.
http://photography.tutsplus.com/articles/an-in-depth-comparison-of-two-variable-neutral-density-filters--photo-8983“Only use your Variable ND within its recommended 2 to 8 stop range. If you go beyond the “MAX”, you may experience an uneven exposure or color shift that appears as an “X bar” in the image. This is more common when using higher densities on full frame cameras; however, can be experienced on any camera. This is a common issue– it’s the law of physics when combining two polarizing filters; however, this issue can be eliminated. First, adjust your focal length and then reduce the density (stop value) setting by rotating the filter ring until the color shift disappears.”
repleo wrote:
The 'X' shade or 'maltesse cross' is a well known issue with variable ND filters. I believe it is in part related to using them on wide angle lenses and using too high of a strength. Try moving back, and zooming in and see if it helps.
It doesn't seem to be problem with 'fixed' ND's. - at least I haven't encountered it yet.
I'll add to Phil's reply to say that the maltese cross seems to relate not so much to the focal length of the lens used but rather the sensor chip specifications - I'm guessing specifically with the distance between the photo-sites on the chip and perhaps the Bayer filter or something (I'm not an engineer). It seems to be the by-product of a pattern of destructive interference between the two CPLs that you twist against each other to create the different apparent densities. I bought a Singh-Ray vari-ND years ago and had no issues whatsoever on film or my D200 (crop factor) and later D700 (full frame) DSLRs, with any lens to which I could affix it (so, not the 14-24 f2.8). But when I used it on the Fuji X-T1 a few years back, the "X" appeared (at almost all focal lengths, just more or less obvious based on aperture) - so I called Singh-Ray and they told me it's called the maltese cross and it only happens on certain models of camera.
dioq61 wrote:
I've been introduced to daytime long exposure photography. I've not yet taken any images, but would like to begin soon. In order to do so, I need to purchase a couple of neutral density (ND) filters. There is a wide range of prices ($20 - $124) for the same type filter. Can someone explain to me why the difference in pricing? It must be the materials used to fabricate the filter, right?
Some are resin, some are glass, and some use high quality optical glass. Some have crap coatings, some have good (and durable) coatings. Some have horrid color cast, some are truly neutral. Some have brass threads, some will bind on your lens and you can't get it off.
Shooting with NDs can be a hoot.
I use Haida filters...less expensive than lee, but uses the same glass.
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