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Jun 29, 2017 05:33:26   #
mborn Loc: Massachusetts
 
I would set the upper limit of the Auto Iso to 1250 and adjust settings from there

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Jun 29, 2017 05:52:30   #
johneccles Loc: Leyland UK
 
Don't use such a high ISO because that would create "Noise" which gives your pictures a grainy effect. Set it at the lowest you can about 100-200, when you go to your event though, I would set the camera on Auto just that day so you will get some great pictures. Otherwise when you have time set the ISO as low as possible and set the camera on f8 aperture and let the camera do the rest.
As you gain more experience proceed up to manual mode.

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Jun 29, 2017 07:09:02   #
Don, the 2nd son Loc: Crowded Florida
 
I've had similar results with "auto ISO" it works sometimes but typically overexposes. I have been most successful in manual mode setting shutter speed and aperture where I feel they will be best then move ISO to where the result matches expectations. NOTE: in the menu I chose LCD brightness at "manual" as if it is "auto" I will not notice that the exposure is wrong. Definitely need at least your monopod (tripods can be a problem in a crowd at night.) Gather you family & friends in the back yard, build a modest but adequate bonfire, do a test run NOW. make notes as to what works and when @ Grandfather Mntn relax and have fun.

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Jun 29, 2017 07:55:10   #
pithydoug Loc: Catskill Mountains, NY
 
brucewells wrote:
Sue, it's each person's preference, but I typically leave my ISO set to 200, and use aperture priority. If it gets too dark to shoot hand-held, I take it to a tripod. The 17-55 is a very capable lens.


I agree as long as there is minimal movement.

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Jun 29, 2017 07:55:38   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
SueScott wrote:
Hi all! A year and a half ago I upgraded from a Nikon P520 bridge camera which I used as a point and shoot to a D7200 - a huge change considering my total ignorance about such basics as aperture and ISO. I've made considerable progress since then and am now playing around with auto-ISO in manual, which brings me to my question.

I set the upper value to 5000 (probably too high) and am happy with daylight pictures - however, at dusk outdoors the results look like midday. This is concerning because next week I'm heading down to NC to the Grandfather Mountain Highland Games. The first night there will be a Calling of the Clans in front of a bonfire and I need to get a proper exposure that shows darkness and shadows. Would it be better to cancel the auto-ISO and just go strictly manual for this? BTW, I'll be using my 17-55 f/2.8 lens for nighttime events and my 18-300 lens during the day. Thanks!
Hi all! A year and a half ago I upgraded from a N... (show quote)


I avoid shooting in Manual. Auto, A, and P will work more reliably until you have developed the skills needed for Manual.

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Jun 29, 2017 08:33:38   #
Brent Rowlett Loc: Atlanta, GA
 
Only when you are capable of shooting in manual mode, you really understand the triangle of photography and your camera. Generally, for outdoor photography I use the lowest ISO possible--100, indoor 400-800, and for night time 800 which gives me an additional 3 f-stops of light. I have many Quantum Q-flash T5d and X5d lights having 4 to 8 times the light to stop action at night or for fill to over power the sun for back lighting.

Many will not experience the effects of high ISO values until you start printing large images. Having plenty of light allows you the ability to keep your ISO low, your aperture small, for tack sharp smooth printed images.

I do not trust the meters in any camera and being trained with view cameras shooting plate film, I have always used a hand held meter and continue to do so today with excellent results. When you meter your setting you know that your camera will perform as expected at that exact moment.

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Jun 29, 2017 08:45:00   #
dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho
 
Sue I have never used auto ISO and generally leave mine set at 200. It does well for me unless I am taking night photos without a tripod. Then I might increase it to 800 or 1000. For general photography your ISO is way too high.

Dennis

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Jun 29, 2017 08:50:52   #
pithydoug Loc: Catskill Mountains, NY
 
jerryc41 wrote:
I avoid shooting in Manual. Auto, A, and P will work more reliably until you have developed the skills needed for Manual.


I don't avoid it but I find A and P(tv) to work fine and let the camera do the hard work. There are some damn fine technology in cameras today. I do use M when I must control both Shutter and DOF like sport events. In that case I'm manual and set both A and Tv and then Auto ISO. Again, I can spend my time on composition and not the dials.

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Jun 29, 2017 09:00:40   #
Eddy Vortex
 
Sounds like you need a photography course, there are many free ones available online:)

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Jun 29, 2017 09:28:35   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
SueScott wrote:
Hi all! A year and a half ago I upgraded from a Nikon P520 bridge camera which I used as a point and shoot to a D7200 - a huge change considering my total ignorance about such basics as aperture and ISO. I've made considerable progress since then and am now playing around with auto-ISO in manual, which brings me to my question.

I set the upper value to 5000 (probably too high) and am happy with daylight pictures - however, at dusk outdoors the results look like midday. This is concerning because next week I'm heading down to NC to the Grandfather Mountain Highland Games. The first night there will be a Calling of the Clans in front of a bonfire and I need to get a proper exposure that shows darkness and shadows. Would it be better to cancel the auto-ISO and just go strictly manual for this? BTW, I'll be using my 17-55 f/2.8 lens for nighttime events and my 18-300 lens during the day. Thanks!
Hi all! A year and a half ago I upgraded from a N... (show quote)


A camera with an EVF would solve your problem - so would exposure bracketing and chimping. I would not say you need auto ISO for this - but probably a higher ISO especially if hand holding.

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Jun 29, 2017 09:38:06   #
jwn Loc: SOUTHEAST GEORGIA USA
 
Go to Flicker, search Bonfires and look at the different settings others have used. The exif data info will give you a world of info.

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Jun 29, 2017 09:44:57   #
mineart
 
Sue,

first, sounds like a great trip.

Second, if you have figures moving in your composition you will need a shutter speed that will stop the action (unless you purposefully want blur-which is also very cool) which means a higher ISO. The longer the shutter stays open the lower the ISO can be.

you may also want to switch to a different metering mode. Play around with 'spot' metering.

I am not an expert but i do know there are some good articles out there about the ISO, f-stop, shutter triangle.

http://www.techradar.com/how-to/photography-video-capture/cameras/the-exposure-triangle-aperture-shutter-speed-and-iso-explained-1320830

https://photographylife.com/iso-shutter-speed-and-aperture-for-beginners

https://petapixel.com/2017/03/25/exposure-triangle-making-sense-aperture-shutter-speed-iso/

https://digital-photography-school.com/learning-exposure-in-digital-photography/

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Jun 29, 2017 09:46:35   #
SueScott Loc: Hammondsville, Ohio
 
I really like that lens which I was able to get used - the resolution is outstanding and I can crop to make up for its lack of reach. I don't know why there isn't VR built in to it but shooting at a high enough shutter speed seems to take care of any shaking problem. However, for videos it leaves a lot to be desired since I handhold and the resulting footage has a slight vibration (my one major problem with the 7200 is that video is done using live view instead of through the viewfinder - that beast is heavy and my arms get tired!!).

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Jun 29, 2017 09:56:05   #
SueScott Loc: Hammondsville, Ohio
 
Eddy Vortex wrote:
Sounds like you need a photography course, there are many free ones available online:)


I've been watching a lot of YouTubes and had a one-on-one session a few weeks ago, all of which have been very helpful - sure wish the local colleges had photography courses but I haven't been able to find any.

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Jun 29, 2017 10:46:14   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
SueScott wrote:
Hi all! A year and a half ago I upgraded from a Nikon P520 bridge camera which I used as a point and shoot to a D7200 - a huge change considering my total ignorance about such basics as aperture and ISO. I've made considerable progress since then and am now playing around with auto-ISO in manual, which brings me to my question.

I set the upper value to 5000 (probably too high) and am happy with daylight pictures - however, at dusk outdoors the results look like midday. This is concerning because next week I'm heading down to NC to the Grandfather Mountain Highland Games. The first night there will be a Calling of the Clans in front of a bonfire and I need to get a proper exposure that shows darkness and shadows. Would it be better to cancel the auto-ISO and just go strictly manual for this? BTW, I'll be using my 17-55 f/2.8 lens for nighttime events and my 18-300 lens during the day. Thanks!
Hi all! A year and a half ago I upgraded from a N... (show quote)


Check the D-Lighting settings in the menu. You may find that turning it off gives you more of what you want.

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