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My first Stary post
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Jun 25, 2017 14:58:32   #
CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.
 
Harvey wrote:
It is only a few miles East to the unobstructed, pollution and lite pollution free areas of the Sierras to do nite photography so I am sure I'll be posting often - Jon Dobson, my wife's cousin, got me hooked long ago Just never got around to trying 'till now.

Hi Harvey, I love too use Topaz DeNoise and sometimes Detail too. They have a whole line of good products.
Craig

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Jun 25, 2017 16:07:07   #
nikonshooter Loc: Spartanburg, South Carolina
 
Harvey wrote:
For many years I wanted to be able to capture this type of image and last nite I finally took time to make an effort to do so.
Any C&C will be gladly accepted.
My back yard at 3,500 ft in the Sierras of No. CA

Canon T3i
kit len 18-55 F3.5-5.6 setting 18 @ F3.5
Exposure 16 sec.
ISO 1600

Rock solid tripod & pistol grip ballead


This is a pretty helpful guide on shooting the night sky by Russell Brown.

Attached file:
(Download)

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Jun 25, 2017 18:17:33   #
ggttc Loc: TN
 
I too like stellarium for a quick guide...download it...its free. Then enter your lat and longitude...

Click on the left side of the program and select the little icon that looks like a comic caption with stars and planets and other stuff..when you open that you will get a screen that says adjust your milky way...crank that up to 7 or 8....

You've got a location that most of us envy...get out and shoot.

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Jun 25, 2017 19:31:29   #
Harvey Loc: Pioneer, CA
 
Thanks for the reply and advice - I'LL look into downloading that program for future night photo ops.

ggttc wrote:
I too like stellarium for a quick guide...download it...its free. Then enter your lat and longitude...

Click on the left side of the program and select the little icon that looks like a comic caption with stars and planets and other stuff..when you open that you will get a screen that says adjust your milky way...crank that up to 7 or 8....

You've got a location that most of us envy...get out and shoot.

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Jun 25, 2017 19:34:36   #
Harvey Loc: Pioneer, CA
 
Noise has never been a problem for as I have never shot higher than 400 iso mostly 100 and 200.
Noise is a new challenge for me.
CraigFair wrote:
Hi Harvey, I love too use Topaz DeNoise and sometimes Detail too. They have a whole line of good products.
Craig

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Jun 25, 2017 19:38:00   #
Harvey Loc: Pioneer, CA
 
I backed away from RAW and LIGHT ROOM years ago "But" I did find a file of some I shot 7 yrs ago and I just may "mess"
with them for practice.
ggttc wrote:
This is a great first effort...it looks to me like you have part of the milky way there but I cant be sure.

Now is the time to experiment with iso and shutter speed. Take a graduated series using progressively higher exposure times and progressively higher iso.

And shoot in RAW.

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Jun 25, 2017 19:41:13   #
CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.
 
Harvey wrote:
Thanks for the reply and advice - I'LL look into downloading that program for future night photo ops.

Yes Harvey Stellarium is a must have for all kinds of uses.
Craig

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Jun 25, 2017 19:46:14   #
Harvey Loc: Pioneer, CA
 
Thanks for the reply - I don't think I'll be slipping much cash towards my night photography as i think I have all I need for the amount of time I have to spend slipping it into the broad field of subjects I shoot.

SonnyE wrote:
Hi Harvey! Welcome to where dark matters get exposed.

Yep, very nice first effort there. And a bit of the Milky Way at that.
I like the composition, too.

Take care my Friend, this dark side is very slippery. It slips cash away from you in pursuit of night sky pictures....

My D3300 has ISO steps of 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, and noise, and more noise. Makes us work for our little Victories.
Hi Harvey! Welcome to where dark matters get expos... (show quote)

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Jun 25, 2017 19:52:29   #
Harvey Loc: Pioneer, CA
 
Thanks for looking deep into my image - I am going to use 800 iso tonight with up to 20 sec to see what I can get. Still have clear blue skies so far today 4 1/2 hours till dark..
CraigFair wrote:
That's a great start Harvey. Welcome to the Astronomy Forum. I would suggest 30 sec and ISO 800 and use post processing to bring out the best in your shot. I am going to play with your shot a little and see what's in there.
Craig
PS: As I expected I found a lot of Noise in the shot and dropping down to ISO 800 should help a lot of that.
I personally work with ISO 400. But I also have a lens that gets me f/2.8.

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Jun 25, 2017 20:04:28   #
Harvey Loc: Pioneer, CA
 
Ya- Time with John was quite an adventure - my mother inlaw was a first cousin and was raised around him as they were a raised in the Diplomatic compound in Peking China - long story there You should read John's biography if you have not done so already.A scope is not on my list as I can just squeeze a little out of my SS check for 'new must haves" for my camera bag/trunk. LOL

nikonshooter wrote:
Whoaa, I would guess a weekend with John was a real "up" treat. Now, it is only fitting that you start the flow of money from your account to your local "Astronomy" store - in fact, I now have my social security check direct deposited to High Point Scientific. ...and in honor of John, your first scope has got to be a DOBSONIAN!

Nice image and KEEP POSTING!

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Jun 25, 2017 20:10:31   #
Harvey Loc: Pioneer, CA
 
I am going to go on a search for a used lens - I have found there are good buys on the old film Canon FD mount lens -
I have some with conversion mounts that are fine lens - just no wide angles

.
mikeroetex wrote:
Terrific first effort. Find or rent a little faster lens (like a Tokina 11-16mm 2.8) and you will double your fun!
Nothing like night skies! Enjoy!

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Jun 25, 2017 21:10:55   #
Harvey Loc: Pioneer, CA
 
I like this as they suggest f5 - f7 instead of f2 - f3.5 and high iso of 1600 - I will try this tonight.
nikonshooter wrote:
This is a pretty helpful guide on shooting the night sky by Russell Brown.

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Jun 25, 2017 23:12:37   #
JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA
 
Harvey wrote:
I like this as they suggest f5 - f7 instead of f2 - f3.5 and high iso of 1600 - I will try this tonight.


With wide angle lenses, f5-7 is too restricting and you wouldn't get very much light in a short exposure. For instance, with a focal length of 15mm and at f5, the objective is only 3mm. This just doesn't let much light in. At f2.8, the objective is 5.3mm. For every doubling of the objective, you increase the amount of light by a factor of 4. If you use a 24mm at f1.4, all you need to do is divide 24 by 1.4 = 17.14mm to see how much larger the objective becomes, and with it, a lot more light.

And by the way, the best application to reduce noise is DxO Optic Prime, Elite version. It only works on RAW images. If I have single images, it works far better than Topaz DeNoise since it doesn't reduce detail.

But the best way to reduce noise is to stack with DSS (free). In the case of trying to include foreground trees and mountains, you have to do one set of images for the stars and another image for the foreground and combine in Photoshop.

When it comes to what lenses are good for stars, remember that all lenses are not created equal. One site that does give some idea of how good or how bad a lens might be is www.lenstip.com. They don't test every lens, but if they do test a lens you are interested in, there is good data to look at.

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Jun 26, 2017 12:05:27   #
nikonshooter Loc: Spartanburg, South Carolina
 
Harvey wrote:
For many years I wanted to be able to capture this type of image and last nite I finally took time to make an effort to do so.
Any C&C will be gladly accepted.
My back yard at 3,500 ft in the Sierras of No. CA

Canon T3i
kit len 18-55 F3.5-5.6 setting 18 @ F3.5
Exposure 16 sec.
ISO 1600

Rock solid tripod & pistol grip ballead


I am going to differ with Jim on the F/Stop issue. BTW, there a lot of photogs like Jim who shoot wide open with some "jim dandy" results, Dave Morrow is one. I have attached a picture that explains why. While it's true you do double the amount of light striking the sensor for each stop of light moving towards "wide open"...and you therefore 'halve" light striking the sensor as you "stop down" the lens for each F/stop....that becomes a non issue if you are looking for pinpoint stars. I would not recommend shooting stars wide open, esp at F/1.2,F/1.4, F/2.8 - move towards F/3.5 or F/5.6. But when you do this, you are reducing the size of the aperture (stopping down) and the amount of light that is striking the sensor. So to account for the loss of light, you either have to increase your exposure, go to a wider angle lens, or amp up the gain on your sensor (ISO).

Do Not Shy Away From High ISO's ....I routinely shoot at 6400 ISO when imaging sports. Noise is manageable in post processing.

At 3200 ISO, You can calculate the exposure max by dividing your lens' focal length into 500 (if you have a 10mm fisheye lens - you could shoot a 50 second exposure 500/10mm = 50) this is a good article on exposure settings https://petapixel.com/2015/01/06/avoid-star-trails-following-500-rule/ this will help you to better understand how a wider angle lens works for you to get longer exposures.

But, experiment - have fun trying different ISO settings, different lens angles, and different F/stop combinations - all cameras and lens behave a little differently.


(Download)

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