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Tripod Heads
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Apr 27, 2017 08:53:00   #
olsonsview
 
As an astro hobbyist, and a retired pro photographer I have to say that many of the suggestions here have some merit. However any of the common tripod heads CAN work. But a geared head is smoother and hence easier to use while tracking, but a video head works well too if damped out nicely. And balance is critical to keep the whole rig from suddenly taken over by gravity! Ball heads are the hardest to use I'm my estimation. The sun is an easy target and magnification is low so that removes many challenges! It also makes it easier that once the sun is in focus, put a piece on tape on any focus mechanism if one is exposed and keep it all in focus! And you also need a second, jointed head to be in between the tripod base and the photo head, or get an inexpensive chinese rotating pano camera base. I know this part blows many minds, sorry! Lost anyone yet? I cannot blame you for being lost if you are not familiar with Astro equatorial mounting. The end result will be that one axis of adjustment will keep the sun on target as you track it across the sky! Way easier than using Two axis' like most modern schmidt cassegrain scopes nowadays use in their mount. Those are computer driven on both axis and yet are still most accurate if using a polar base under them so only one axis needs to move in order to follow a star. Our added in between head becomes the polar base! And of course:The sun is a star!
I was going to type all the rest out but I am pooped, I had hand surgery on Monday and couldn't even use my right hand at all until today. Still on pain meds. I can go into this in detail if you private me at a later date. Or just read up on Astro equatorial mounts? Any mount can become an equatorial mount with some thought applied!
All that being said, even a simple, single, geared head can work if you practice following the sun using both axis a few times before the big event! Make sure you use a quality solar filter in front of the lens. Whenever looking towards the Sun, it can make you blind in a hurry! And I have found that That a black mount board shield with a hole cut out to allow the camera lens to poke through is great to avoid momentary glares of a bright sun to get into your eyes while looking through your camera view finder, or use a rotating screen viewer to stay protected. Good luck!

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Apr 27, 2017 08:57:18   #
Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania
 
Lowrider wrote:
Thanks again everyone. It just goes to show you, if your willing to spend the money there is something out there for everyone. The one thing I did pick up on is that due to the actual length of the eclipse and the fact that the sun only moves 1/4 of a degree each minute it may be a moot point. I think testing would be the best way to find out and the closer to the time of the eclipse the better or more accurate it is going to be.


The sun's apparent diameter is 1/2 of a degree. If the figure you have (1/4 degree per minute) is correct, then it is going to be moving half of its width each minute... One way to test without having an actual eclipse is to work on the moon instead. The moon is very close to the same apparent size (or else eclipses wouldn't work...), so you can see just how much it moves during a given exposure. It does move *slightly* slower than the sun (25 hours to come back to the same spot in the sky vs 24), but I think this would be close enough.

Also, don't forget about the magnification of telephoto lenses... If you use a wide-to-normal focal length (50mm lens gives a sun/moon image of 1mm on a full frame sensor), you will be looking at a dot. With longer lenses, you are not only magnifying the *size* of the image, you are magnifying the *speed* across the frame too...

Given your investment in the event, you really need to do some significant testing beforehand, or you will be severely disappointed. On the day, there are going to be millions of people completely disgusted at their cellphone images!

Whatever you do - do *NOT* point your camera at the sun outside of totality unless you have a proper solar filter on the lens. This should be obvious to everyone, but who knows? You will seriously damage your camera, and if you look at the sun through a telephoto lens and no filter, you will remember the sight for ever. Probably be the last thing you see in that eye...

Pop over to the astrophotography section and check us out. We don't bite very often!

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Apr 27, 2017 10:55:31   #
Busbum Loc: 85367
 
Here is an inexpensive way to go about building a mount;

http://www.jlc.net/~force5/Astro/ATM/Barndoor/barndoor.html

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Apr 27, 2017 11:11:39   #
ixixeagle
 
Lowrider wrote:
... due to the actual length of the eclipse and the fact that the sun only moves 1/4 of a degree each minute it may be a moot point. I think testing would be the best way to find out and the closer to the time of the eclipse the better or more accurate it is going to be.


For testing, to get a feel for what is going to happen, you might try some moon photography. The moon moves across the sky at about the same speed as the sun (within a few percent), and it's easier to shoot.

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Apr 27, 2017 11:14:27   #
ixixeagle
 
ixixeagle wrote:
... you might try some moon photography.


... as Bloke said before I did. Sorry.

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Apr 27, 2017 13:13:50   #
chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
BHC wrote:
Excellent choice. 410 for lighter cameras. You can also buy a kit to convert to Kirk plate for around $50.


...yup. I own one and love it.

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Apr 27, 2017 19:48:51   #
rfmaude41 Loc: Lancaster, Texas (DFW area)
 
lamiaceae wrote:
Hmmm. I'm curious to see if someone does come up with a workable product or plan. I'd think though for tracking anything in space you would need a telescope / astronomical mount (head). Remember things like stars and planets, etc. move in arcs not straight lines. On the cheap and with crude adjustment or movements you might try a Video fluid head (the ones with the long handles).

Different types of telescope mounts
To a large extent, a telescope [think telephoto lens] is only as good as its tripod and mounting. A telescope is used to magnify the sky, but unfortunately it also magnifies vibrations. A telescope mount has two primary functions:

Support the telescope firmly so that objects can be viewed and photographed without vibrations
Provide a system for smooth controlled movement to point and guide the instrument

There are two major types of mounts for astronomical telescopes: Altazimuth and Equatorial.

Altazimuth
Altazimuth (sometimes called alt-az) is the simplest type of mount with two motions, altitude (vertical) and azimuth (horizontal): thus the name Altazimuth. Good Altazimuth mounts have slow-motion knobs for making precise adjustments, aiding smooth tracking across the sky. These type mounts are generally good for terrestrial observing and for scanning the sky at lower power but not for deep sky photography. Some Altazimuth mounts are now computer driven and allow a telescope to track the sky more accurately. This is generally good for visual use but can lose tracking on longer exposure astrophotography.
In addition to a standard Altazimuth, mounted on the top of a tripod, there is also the Dobsonian Mount.

Dobsonian Mount
The Dobsonian mount is a newer, modified version of the Altazimuth mount. This mount was invented in the 1970's by John Dobsonian. Dobsonian mounts are mounted on the ground by a heavy platform, and designed to support massively sized Newtonian Reflectors, while keeping a steady image. It is common for Dobsonian telescopes to have very large apertures - anywhere between 6 and 20+ inches!

Equatorial
Equatorial mounts are superior to non-computerized Altazimuth mounts for astronomical observing over long periods of time and absolutely necessary for astrophotography. As the earth rotates around its axis, the stationary stars appear to move across the sky. If you are observing them using an Altazimuth mount, they will quickly float out of view in both axes. A telescope on aproperly aligned equatorial mount can be aimed at a celestial object and easily guided either by either manual slow-motion controls or by an electric motor.

There are two relatively simple steps to aligning your equatorial mount:

Position the tripod so that it points along a line with celestial south. The tripod can be placed pointing anywhere in a 360 degree circle, but you want the front of the mount aiming south. Do not confuse this with magnetic south, as they are not aligned! Some mounts are equipped with a device for rotating the telescope, which can be pointed south instead of aligning the tripod itself.
The first joint above the tripod allows adjusting the telescope to be tilted back. This needs to be tilted to the same number of degrees as the viewer's latitude. Once this is done, the telescope should be pointing at the celestial South Pole.


There are two basic types of equatorial mounts:

German Equatorial Mount
Both Newtonian Reflectors and Refractor telescopes normally use this type mount. The German Equatorial mount’s distinguishing feature is the large counterweight extending on the opposite side from the telescope. This counterweight is vital, as it provides balance to the telescope.

Fork Mount
Most Catadioptric and other shorter optical tubes use this style mount, which is generally more convenient to use than the German mount, especially for astrophotography. A computer controls the telescope using an internal, digital equatorial drive to calculate the Altazimuth setting for the mount. This is the style of mount most commonly used in modern research telescopes. This fully automatic operation can make observing extremely fun and easy, while saving the observer considerable time and effort in locating objects. With this type of mount, you will often only need to align the telescope to celestial south, and enter your latitude and longitude, and the computer will do the rest.

Good luck.
Hmmm. I'm curious to see if someone does come up ... (show quote)


One 'lil correction; inventor of the Dobsonian mount is named John Lowry Dobson (not Dobsonian), LOL...

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Apr 27, 2017 21:19:47   #
Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga
 
Lowrider wrote:
I don't want to get into the tripod debate but I do have a question about tripod heads. All I currently own is a medium travel tripod and know very little about the various models. I plan on traveling to the top of a mountain in North GA to take pictures of the solar eclipse. It occurs to me that during the eclipse, the sun will continue to set and will move within the viewfinder. Does anyone know of a tripod head that is adjustable incrementally by turning a dial to move the focus small increments at a time? Unlocking and moving and relocking can result in a very difficult adjustment especially when using a telephoto lens.
Thanks for your help.
I don't want to get into the tripod debate but I d... (show quote)

Where in North Georgia ? I was just up in Walker county a few weeks back... Near Chickamauga.

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Apr 28, 2017 01:17:39   #
lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA
 
olsonsview wrote:
As an astro hobbyist, and a retired pro photographer I have to say that many of the suggestions here have some merit. However any of the common tripod heads CAN work. But a geared head is smoother and hence easier to use while tracking, but a video head works well too if damped out nicely. And balance is critical to keep the whole rig from suddenly taken over by gravity! Ball heads are the hardest to use I'm my estimation. The sun is an easy target and magnification is low so that removes many challenges! It also makes it easier that once the sun is in focus, put a piece on tape on any focus mechanism if one is exposed and keep it all in focus! And you also need a second, jointed head to be in between the tripod base and the photo head, or get an inexpensive chinese rotating pano camera base. I know this part blows many minds, sorry! Lost anyone yet? I cannot blame you for being lost if you are not familiar with Astro equatorial mounting. The end result will be that one axis of adjustment will keep the sun on target as you track it across the sky! Way easier than using Two axis' like most modern schmidt cassegrain scopes nowadays use in their mount. Those are computer driven on both axis and yet are still most accurate if using a polar base under them so only one axis needs to move in order to follow a star. Our added in between head becomes the polar base! And of course:The sun is a star!
I was going to type all the rest out but I am pooped, I had hand surgery on Monday and couldn't even use my right hand at all until today. Still on pain meds. I can go into this in detail if you private me at a later date. Or just read up on Astro equatorial mounts? Any mount can become an equatorial mount with some thought applied!
All that being said, even a simple, single, geared head can work if you practice following the sun using both axis a few times before the big event! Make sure you use a quality solar filter in front of the lens. Whenever looking towards the Sun, it can make you blind in a hurry! And I have found that That a black mount board shield with a hole cut out to allow the camera lens to poke through is great to avoid momentary glares of a bright sun to get into your eyes while looking through your camera view finder, or use a rotating screen viewer to stay protected. Good luck!
As an astro hobbyist, and a retired pro photograph... (show quote)


OK, here you go, someone who actually knows something about the topic. He explains the WHY of what I referred to and listed TYPES OF.


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Apr 28, 2017 06:04:22   #
Lowrider Loc: Kennesaw, GA
 
There is a mountain top just outside of Clayton on the Eastern side.

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Apr 28, 2017 06:10:14   #
Lowrider Loc: Kennesaw, GA
 
Shooting the moon, so to speak, is what made me aware of the issue. As I raised my tripod with the long lens, and I tightened the lock, I never knew where the lens would settle back down and sometimes not even on the moon. What I was trying to do is get a shot of the moon between some pine tree branches. I needed a strong strobe flash to illuminate the branches but didn't have one at the time. What I needed was an adjustment dial that would allow the tripod to move much like what is on a microscope. I think the observation that I needed a telescope stand would be accurate. But, for example, and I mentioned this earlier., with the cost of a rental house close by and a new tripod and a new solar filter, these shots are going to costs me about $45.00 a piece assuming I get 20 good ones.

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