Low light indoor Martial Artss: Hello. I'm new on here, so to introduce myself.... I'm married w 2 children, live in New Jersey, have a Photography business-- Marie Ryan Photography...

marie37

Hello. I'm new on here, so to introduce myself.... I'm married w 2 children, live in New Jersey, have a Photography business--
Marie Ryan Photography LLC.
My current struggle is with shooting indoor Martial Arts (some still, some action, WITH flash & a couple soft boxes.)
I only shoot in Manual mode on my Canon T5I Rebel, using only Prime lenses.
(35, 50, & 85)
My action images are difficult to get crisp, even with continuous lighting.

My ?
New camera, new lens, or different lighting???
I've tried multiple settings & still struggle.
ANY kind input/advice will be highly appreciated.

Dngallagher Loc: Wilmington De.

marie37 wrote:

Hello. I'm new on here, so to introduce myself....... (show quote)

Indoor sporting events under indoor lighting need fast lenses, you don't state what your lenses are in terms of aperture - I myself shoot indoor events using f/2.8 lenses, but in many cases f/4 and slightly higher ISO does well at shutter speeds above 1/320 to stop action satisfactorily, raise the ISO to get higher shutter speeds if needed.

If you are using flash then you should have plenty of light to fill or replace the ambient lighting - you might want to post a few shots that illustrate your problems. If you do, please check STORE ORIGINAL so all of the EXIF info is available.

marie37

Thx for responding. I have to double check my lense apertures. I'll do so then share.
Thx again.

Just Trying To Focus Loc: Jackson County, Michigan

marie37 wrote:

Hello. I'm new on here, so to introduce myself....... (show quote)

I don't know what kind of lighting you're in for martial arts. I take a lot of high school basketball shots, and I use either a Canon 70D or 80D, and for basketball I use the Canon 85mm F1.8. My best shots come when the aperture is F1.8, because I have to have a fast shutter speed.

Here is a link to a basketball shot and you can view the EXIF.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sandyhowell/32094941650/in/datetaken/

aellman Loc: Boston MA

Dngallagher wrote:

Indoor sporting events under indoor lighting need ... (show quote)

Each camera has a maximum shutter speed to sync with flash. I think most are around 1/200 or 1/250, so she has to deal with that limitation.
If you try to go higher, you will get some part of the image, but not the whole thing. >alan

Dngallagher Loc: Wilmington De.

aellman wrote:

Each camera has a maximum shutter speed to sync with flash. I think most are around 1/200 or 1/250, so she has to deal with that limitation.
If you try to go higher, you will get some part of the image, but not the whole thing. >alan

Yes, depending on the camera & flash used.

For example, my Nikon D7100 syncs at 1/250, 1/320 for fastest shutter with flash, BUT using my Nikon SB-600 flash I can shoot at pretty much any speed I select without causing a the black curtain making use of high speed sync. Of course then power of the flash becomes an issue.

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/a/tips-and-techniques/high-speed-sync-a-flash-technique-to-add-a-pro-touch-to-your-photographs.html

But I still would go for the fast lens to gather more ambient light and not use the flash at all if possible.

Using a 17-50 f/2.8 zoom, even at f/4.0 has done fine for me for indoor basketball under court lights with no flash use.

Dngallagher Loc: Wilmington De.

Just Trying To Focus wrote:

I don't know what kind of lighting you're in for martial arts. I take a lot of high school basketball shots, and I use either a Canon 70D or 80D, and for basketball I use the Canon 85mm F1.8. My best shots come when the aperture is F1.8, because I have to have a fast shutter speed.

Here is a link to a basketball shot and you can view the EXIF.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sandyhowell/32094941650/in/datetaken/

Good deal!

CO

There is the limitation of the flash sync speed but the extremely short duration of the flash itself can help to freeze the action. That typically will range from about 1/1000 second to 1/40,000 second. It will have a lot to do with what percentage of the exposure is from ambient light and what percentage is from the flash.

Kmgw9v Loc: Miami, Florida

marie37 wrote:

Hello. I'm new on here, so to introduce myself....... (show quote)

Since you have a photography business, you need to "double check" those lens apertures.

BebuLamar

Kmgw9v wrote:

Since you have a photography business, you need to "double check" those lens apertures.

billnourse Loc: Bloomfield, NM

I'm surprised by this question from someone with a photography business, but here is my take. I shoot indoor sports with an f2.8 lens (70-200 or 24-70) and sometimes have to shoot at 4000 ISO to get satisfactory exposure without flash. If you are shooting with speedlites and strobe(soft box) you should be getting good exposures and you will have plenty of light, even with slower apertures, and lower ISO's, and the speed of the strobe or speedlite will stop most action.

You say you are shooting in full manual. You might try Tv and set your shutter speed around 1/800 sec. without strobes, and where ever your camera will sync when using strobes. With your T5i I am thinking that would be 1/200 sec.

I shot some indoor rodeo recently in a VERY dark arena, and with the Speedlite I was able to capture sellable images at ISO 640, 1/200 sec. at f4.5

(Download)

boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander

First- welcome. If you are shooting sports action, you need a camera designed for that type of work, Assuming you don't want to spend mucho bucks (for the 1dXmk2) that means a 7dmk2. As above you also need fast glass so check F-stop. 2 other things. You said that you only shoot manual, you may need to use TV or AV depending upon the situation. You are also only using prime lenses, you may want to go to a zoom such as the 80-200 2.8. I realize that I just spent 3 or 4 grand of your money. You didn't mention if you are using any support. A monopod may not be a bad idea. (another $100). It's fun spending other peoples money.

teacherdad48 Loc: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

Marie37.
I'm going to give you a way different answer than all the above. The answer lies in the lighting and not in your camera. I shoot indoor sports professionally. I take a 640 watt strobe and point it at the ceiling and bounce the light from the ceiling onto the athletes. This way I can shoot at 1/250, f4 and as low as 320-400 ISO. They key is to use the strobe to overpower the existing ambient light. Your strobe will freeze the action even at 1/250. The strobe also will not interfere or bother the athletes either. You also won't have any 'red eye" to contend with. PM me if you want details.

billnourse Loc: Bloomfield, NM

teacherdad48 wrote:

Marie37.
. I take a 640 watt strobe and point it at the ceiling and bounce the light from the ceiling onto the athletes. . The strobe also will not interfere or bother the athletes either. You also won't have any 'red eye" to contend with.

I have never figured that a 640 strobe could produce enough light to bounce flash off of a 20 foot gym ceiling. I will be trying this the next time I shoot in a gym. Don't think it will work in the rodeo arena where I shoot because they have had numerous monster truck events in there and the ceiling is very dark from exhaust smoke, but I am going to find out.

Bill

CO

billnourse wrote:

I'm surprised by this question from someone with a... (show quote)

That photo, shot in low ambient light, is a great example of how the short duration of flash freezes motion.