Nikon zoom help.
Mar 30, 2017 21:11:26 #
martinfisherphoto wrote:
NOOOOOOOOOOOO Mention of focusing mode, amount of ... (show quote)
Here are a couple of photos taken with my 200-500mm--focusing mode is usually 'P' or 'A' (set at f8), with auto ISO (100 - 3200).
Mar 31, 2017 07:42:30 #
SCChop wrote:
Here are a couple of photos taken with my 200-500mm--focusing mode is usually 'P' or 'A' (set at f8), with auto ISO (100 - 3200).
Is this handheld or on a tripod?
Mar 31, 2017 07:56:09 #
Digital1022 wrote:
Is this handheld or on a tripod?
A couple of more questions. Are you using spot focusing or dynamic range focusing? Were these images heavily cropped? Do you remember what zoom setting you were using; 200mm, 300mm or maxed at 500mm. Do you have any other lens besides the 200-500. If so, take an image of the flower and compare. 200-500 was probably not the right lens for the flower, but if it all you had with you, then it was the best lens available. You may have said this in your opening, but what was the shutter speed used (not 100-3200) but the actual ISO of the image taken?
Mar 31, 2017 09:50:05 #
Off to a good start. Actually it would help to see some In Flight photos taken with the camera lens combo. Doesn't matter if good or not. Just to mention P or A are not focusing modes. To get you started here's a little reading about the different focusing modes with Nikon cameras. This is an older article, but will get the point across. I notice in the second photo taken of bird your shutter speed was at 1/40th. Normally this would result in a blurry photo unless your set up on a tripod. With you lens fully extended you should be shooting at least 1/500 second shutter speed. This is to prevent nothing blur. I recommend 1/1000th to start up to 1/2500th for birds in flight. Helps with camera motion and also freezes the wing movement. Do you know about Back Button Focusing? Are you familiar with Auto Focus Continuous Mode?http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/sports.htm
SCChop wrote:
Here are a couple of photos taken with my 200-500mm--focusing mode is usually 'P' or 'A' (set at f8), with auto ISO (100 - 3200).
Mar 31, 2017 12:07:49 #
romanticf16
Loc: Commerce Twp, MI
SCChop wrote:
I purchased a Nikon D500 some months back along wi... (show quote)
Aftermarket lens makers have to reverse engineer the design of the focus system- it is seldom done as well as by the original design.Have you checked your 200-500 to see if it is front or back focusing? That can be adjusted in camera.
Mar 31, 2017 12:58:53 #
Mar 31, 2017 13:09:05 #
Digital1022 wrote:
A couple of more questions. Are you using spot fo... (show quote)
Almost always use spot focusing unless I'm shooting BIF, then it's the focusing grid that looks like 4 squares in a diamond pattern in the viewfinder. The only other lens I use is the Nikkor 16-85mm and 85mm macro. Both of them focus fast and no issues. As for the flower image, I took it with the 200-500mm because that's all I had with me that day. I didn't get the photo data on each when I downloaded--typically I shoot at a high shutter speed, with ISO compensating.
Mar 31, 2017 21:47:36 #
SCChop wrote:
Almost always use spot focusing unless I'm shooting BIF, then it's the focusing grid that looks like 4 squares in a diamond pattern in the viewfinder. The only other lens I use is the Nikkor 16-85mm and 85mm macro. Both of them focus fast and no issues. As for the flower image, I took it with the 200-500mm because that's all I had with me that day. I didn't get the photo data on each when I downloaded--typically I shoot at a high shutter speed, with ISO compensating.
I downloaded all of your images and you are not exaggerating the problem. I cannot find a single point in any images that is tack sharp. The question then becomes is it the camera or the lens. I think you said that you do not have the problem with other lenses which would lead you to the lens. However, Nikon has a history of focusing problems with some of their cameras. When I bought my d800, they were having some problems with various areas in the focus screen. I seem to remember them having some problems with the d300. I have not experienced that problem, but I think you need to isolate the camera or the lens. I would suggest setting up a shot that you can take with your 16-85 and your 200-500, both hand held and tripod and compare the results. Try not to use the absolute low or high end of each lens. Use an ISO of 100-400 for both so you will need a well lit subject and the same shutter speed of say 1/500 sec. Crop the 16-85mm, but not the 200-500 and compare the results. Post them here. If there is significant difference is focus sharpness, I would submit that the lens need to be checked out by Nikon. If they are close, meaning that both appear not to be sharp, then chances are its the camera. From the images you provided, it does not appear to be camera shake. One of the other posters suggested optimizing your 200-500 with your camera. I agree that might help, but if the test shows a marked difference between the 16-85 and the 200-500 then it is probably the lens and you should go back to the seller and see if he would allow you to use another 200-500 and see if there is a difference. They you will know that it is the lens and can provide Nikon with the evidence. Nikon can be a little contrary some times, so be persistent.
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