mj13

My husband and I are going to 50th anniversary of Mercury Cougar car show. I bought him a Nikon D5300. He used a Nikon D40 in the past, but his expertise in in the actual rebuilding of the cars not photographing them!
Any suggestions on setting for exterior shots? Interior, engine shots? Underneath car shots? Show is indoors, I think, but most shows are in parking lots. Any suggestions would be very appreciated.

mj13

I forgot to say. I have an 18-55 lens and a 70-300 lens. Both Nikon

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Unusual angles and close-up wide angle shots can be nice. It depends on your intention. If you simply want to present a show of the cars at the show, front-rear-side shots are good. If you want to catch the viewer's eye, get close-ups of emblems, reflections, and other odd shots. Get the spectators, too.

"Bring a Zoom Lens or a Wide Angle Prime. ...
Stick with Simple Camera Settings (If shooting RAW, when in doubt, underexpose.) ...
Go Low. ...
Leave your Tripods or Monopods at Home. ...
Wear Dark Clothing to Avoid Reflections. ...
Don't Forget the Exhibitors and Vendors. ...
Avoid Using the Flash."

http://ilovehatephoto.com/2015/01/24/10-photography-tips-on-shooting-an-auto-show/

snfapm1983

Reflections are interesting. Chrome and shiny painted surfaces can create some opportunities.

Clapperboard

Take a Speedlight flash unit and a small reflector. Bounce the flash off the reflector (which you can hold for him!) to create soft(er) light and lighten the shadows. A white/silver reflector will give the choice of soft light (white) or soft specular (silver) light. Check the results on the back of the camera to see which you like. The specular (reflections) light may well the engine/detail shots. Use ITTL to et the camera help with the exposure. play with setting the FLASH exposure setting ONE to TWO stops MINUS. Thus you get fill-in flash at 25% to 50%. You can also play with firing the flash at the subject and the reflector to effectively get two lights from the on flash unit. Try it out on your own car at home before going to the show.
Just a suggestion, I don't claim to be an expert.

Silverman Loc: Michigan

might consider the nikon 35mm 1.8g prime lens, do not forget the crop factor on your d5300,....The Nikon lens focal length (35mm) x crop factor of 1.5 = the actual view of the lens.
The 50mm 1.8g lens must be figured the same method.

catchlight.. Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway

Great tips especially on engine detail.

Speed lights with Gary Fond domes can be a good portable way to control shadows. I sometimes use up to three in manual mode...a bit more control when your down to 1/8 or less and flash batteries can last all day set that low. Mainly fill.

Longer telephoto for editing and perspective.

Marionsho Loc: Kansas

Welcome to the Hog, mj13.
With under hood shots, don't forget to shoot the exterior of the car it's in. I've made that mistake.
Marion

chaman

You are asking a guy with no experience at all to carry with a reflector, a flash, adjustments in exposure accordingly, yada, yada, blah, blah. Completely absurd. A car show is not the place for all that unless you are a seasoned amateur or a paid professional. I suggest to start with the basics of exposure, study the new camera and practice in similar settings before the event to get the hang of it.

Raider12 Loc: Texas

If the lighting dictates use of a flash, a Rogue reflector does a great job of softening/spreading the flash.

gonzo.3800

I have been doing this for 3 decades, my favorite: 18x55 set at 18, 4 or 5 feet from front corner, 45 degrees, focus front windscreen lower corner near you, camera at headlight height, polarizer to clear windscreen. This gives full front and one side and an almost 3d effect all in focus. The headlight is the eye of the car animal. 18 mm allows you to get in front of the crowd. GG

gonzo.3800

ALWAYS ASK THE OWNER TO PUT THE HOOD DOWN! Don't touch another man's pride and joy, for the shot practice on your own car for effect and mini me in the chrome. GG

GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan

You've no doubt heard most things to do for outdoor car shows but hear are two more that I found works very well and are never really mentioned.

1) Use a CP filter. You can get very good shots of the sides without a lot of ground clutter reflecting on the paint. This works well on horizontal surfaces as well. You might have to play with it on sharp curved sections to find the most desired look. Try using the CP in a bunch of degrees of settings until you find what you like. Be careful on custom wheels. CP's don't like metal surfaces. (See picture 1 and 2.)

2) Remember how everyone shuns the use of an onboard flash? For car shows, that can be false information! I've had many great shots using the camera's flash. There are times when you want just a touch of flash. Besides a hint of fill flash the on board flash work exceptionally well on front and rear lights and reflectors. I've really enjoyed some of the final products I get of a front, of a '57 Chevy when using my Sigma 70 - 200mm from across the street and thrown in the very small on-board flash. (See pictures 3 and 4.)

With the small flash you don't need to ask the owner to turn the lights on either!

Pic 1 (No CP)


Pic 2 (With CP)


Pic 3 (Across Street plus red reflection from car next to me)


Pic 4 (Across Street and moved a touch to the left.)

Sinewsworn Loc: Port Orchard, WA

Used my D7200 with my 18-55 and 55-300 kit lens. Used the SB700, triggered with on-camera flash. Used a car windshield reflector. Great shots! (Cannot post just now from phone not st home). Works really well!