I've been following this thread, and it is quite amazing how much inaccurate information is being expressed as absolute fact. Here are a few examples:
When is the last freakin' time you got a TIFF file on the internet? I qualified what I said by saying "useful"...re the conversion of raw to JPEG.... People are not going to come into your house to see what you did on your monitor.
As I predicted, this discussion has let the hounds out of the hills .... I will stick with Ken Rockwell's take on all this RAW nonsense...If you understand your own camera's settings, you don't need to mount absurd time consuming efforts to tweak a raw to eventually look like a JPEG ... But here it is again...the predictable WW I French trench warfare of what amounts to extremists thinking their RAW is so dramatically different than a JPEG....when it isn't....and the raw purists are so dug into their occult practice that they will never admit that at the end of the day all their effort is only appreciated by other raw purists while the rest of the world is out taking photos and having fun.
This raw discussion is purely an academic exercise when you put the prints down side by side..
Six pages of "discussion and advice" so far....ROFL!!!! Ken Rockwell is the common sense cure on the subject.
1) First, understand that what you are seeing on screen is the JPEG rendering of the raw file.
This is incorrect, unless we are only talking about the camera screen, not the computer screen. A raw file usually has greater bit depth than an 8 bit JPEG file. Most modern software and most modern monitors can and do display greater than 8 bit depth. Raw files imported to software such Photoshop or PaintShopPro etc. use internal formats that have more than 8 bit information.
2) Just to clarify, do you know that raw files need to be edited? To expand on f8lee's comment, you're not seeing the "real" image. Converting straight to jpg without editing will not give you the same result as if you had shot strictly in jpg mode.
This is also, not strictly true. It is software dependent. It may be true in the Adobe world, but not necessarily so with other software, such as Canon DPP which applies the camera settings to the raw image data. Image looks the same as the JPEG but retains the full bit depth with no compression and will give higher quality prints even if not edited in any way.
3) Lots of good advice above , just know that if you convert to JPG with out any editing you will not get the same effects as you would have gotten if you shot in JPG.
Also frequently untrue. It is software dependent. It may be true with Adobe and other products, but it is not a universal truth.
4) I personally count myself with the JPEG insurgents since in the end do to anything useful with RAW images, you must (drum roll) convert them to JPEG which seems counter-intuitive.
Also completely untrue. The files need to be converted to a 'bitmap format' but JPEG is merely one of many alternatives. It is the most widely used for various reasons, but a 16bit TIFF file will yield higher quality prints from most raw files.
5) ALL Raw files need editing before conversion to JPEG.
Also untrue.
6) When you shoot raw, the camera has to convert that data to jpg in order to display it on the camera's LCD. So, it stores that jpg in the raw file.
Bottom line... if you have raw images on your computer, you already have the jpg also.
Only partially correct, there is really no such thing as "The JPG". Specifically with Canon (I can't test anything else) there are some details that matter. If you are interested in quality then raw files will yield the highest quality. There is an embedded JPEG in my camera's .CR2 raw files. It is more heavily compressed (~ 3MB ) than the highest quality JPEGs stored by the camera ( ~ 5MB). The raw files are about 25 MB, so 20 MB more data than the best quality JPEGs. If I import the raw into Canon DPP and simply convert to the highest quality JPEG, the JPEG file is then 10 MB. A 16bit TIFF is around 100 MB. These files are not all the same, they are not a commodity, they are not all equal.
Think of your images like gold. Do you want 9ct, 18ct, 22ct or 24ct? How much pure gold do you want? They are all yellowish to some degree and shiny whether white gold or rose gold!
http://www.gold.org/my-gold-guide/why-gold/gold-purity-tips-difference-between-24k-22k-18k-gold-------------------
In conclusion, although much of the advice from the people quoted above and from others is excellent, we all have limits to our knowledge / expertise / whatever. Absolute statements are problematic. Each of us needs to make our own choices, and should do so, but that doesn't mean that 'our way' is the right way for others, and certainly not the only way.
At the end of the day:
1) There is no such thing as a single JPEG where they all have equal quality derived from the same initial (raw) capture.
2) It all depends upon the combination of the camera, the settings, and the software used. Different combinations will yield different results.
3) There is no single universal approach that is right for every person or every occasion.
We all need to exercise the freedom to choose our own methods, and in the words of Andy M. Stewart "Freedom is like Gold":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBaq1oYDHQUI've been following this thread, and it is quite a... (