leftj Loc: Texas

Yes, it's very clear that you don't understand but that's ok.

f8lee Loc: New Mexico

Oh, I understand that I did hurt your feelings by using your post as a jumping point to my response... other wise, why would you be so diligently fighting to "prove" that somehow what you stated was useful?

Dispute the specific points I made if you like (or even can) - but this shall be my last response to the trolling of an ignoramus.

catchlight.. Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway

Though the consensus seems to be that step rings suck and variable filters are junk... I need to disagree.

The variable filter I have is awesome If I keep it in the scale markings on the ring. I like the ability to focus and then scale it to what I want.

As for stepping rings, all you need is a wrench if they stick and be easy installing them. A very small touch of candle wax on the threads can make things screw together nicely.

Haydon

I use GND's from Lee in 3 Stop soft/hard and have the Big & Little Stopper. They are expensive but offer the easy convenience of stacking with (little) degrading. Setting your exposure with a 10 Stop ND is a breeze with the slide-in but you need to be careful with light-bleed and positioning. I have a CPL as a screw-on only. I could never go back to a conventional screw on. Where it really helps is when you have non horizontal landscapes and you can turn the GND to accommodate. Is it a perfect system? No. Is it expensive? Absolutely, but I don't regret going this route.

I still say learning how to apply luminosity masks with multiple exposures is the best but the caveat is tripod work to ensure the least amount of re-positioning of multiple frames.

leftj Loc: Texas

Actually your last response was along time ago. The rest has been basically vomit.

goring2

I'm using Tiffen and B&W Polarizer, NDs and GNDs and never have issues with them.

bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA

"EVIL" camera. That's great! I have one.

Related to this topic, I was doing my homework by watching and reading how to use 10 stop ND filters. I was struggling with the part about framing, reading the exposure and doing the math. I finally bought a filter to try what I learned. I screwed to the front of the camera and none of the "problems" showed up. With an EVIL camera, the screen looks fine, the framing is easy and the exposure is calculated with the filter on. All I have to do is set the aperture and be sure ISO is not on auto.

If I was using a non EVIL camera, I think I would seriously consider a magnetic mount adapter.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Variable ND come in two types: utter crap and really expensive.

The utter crap ones will ruin your images with uneven effect, ugly tints, lower quality glass and lack of multi-coatings.... and aren't exactly cheap. A 77mm will run you $90 to $110.

The really expensive ones will cost you between $300 and $550 in 77mm size and will generally be kinder to your images, but will still not always be free or uneven effects.

If you are planning just to shoot still photos, do yourself a favor and simply get one or two fixed strength (non-variable) ND.

Typically the most that's needed for still photography is nine or ten stops. So get one of those, or get a pair such as a three-stop and six-stop to use individually or stack when the stronger effect is needed. These will cost between roughly $75 and $150 apiece.

With still photos, you really don't need variable, fixed strength NDs will do the job because you can fine tune your exposures with the other adjustments your camera offers: ISO, shutter speed and aperture size.

If shooting video with them, a variable ND might be needed because there's less control over exposure with the other camera variables. But even with video, for the best quality a handful of fixed strength would be better... though those may be expensive and less practical than a variable ND.

Alternatively, if already ou have a Circular Polarizer, that also can be used in conjunction with a fixed strength ND filter. A standard C-Pol filter cuts between one and two stops of light, depending upon it's setting. (BTW, variable ND are essentially two C-Pols stacked on top of each other.)

Graduated ND filters are an entirely different thing, used for very different purposes. Not sure how those have sneaked into this discussion of Variable NDs.

marty wild Loc: England

well written

Bill Emmett Loc: Bow, New Hampshire

I saw a video on Youtube a year or so ago about using a VND filter. The video explained the "X" causes and how to shoot and get around the effect. I bought a Vivitar Series I VND filter and used it on windy days on the Gulf, and in the large canal in my backyard. I used it on my Tamron 24-70mm with its 82mm threads. I think the "X" factor has to do with the angle the light hits the filter, and the amount of density dialed in. I haven't use the filter in a while, since I've not been to the Cascades for a while. Take a look at Youtube, look for using a VND filter, something should come up.

B

catchlight.. Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway

F8lee brings up the fact the assumptions and not facts seem to drive many of the responses. I personally have no issue with X artifacts and find focus and back to the adjustment is so very convenient with only a turn of the filter.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

Right exposure?
With TTL this is generally not an issue. You decide what is the time you want the shutter open and dial that in with the filter.
That is the pleasure of a V-ND filter. Also digital you can tweak what you want by chimping so it is not an issue as it was with film anciently.

boomer826 Loc: Florida gulf coast

MCullen Loc: Encinitas, CA

Several months back I decided I wanted to learn how to use ND filters and after researching I purchased from Breakthrough Photography. I purchased through Amazon, however you can also purchase direct. The filters are high quality have worked well and I will purchase my next one from them. Their site has good information and they are made in the USA.

http://breakthrough.photography