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High ISO Speeds - When to use?
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Jul 31, 2016 06:56:42   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
AsiaPaul wrote:
I still think of high ISO speeds as they were used in film days. 100 for sunny days, 400 for sports or night photography. With the new dSLRs having ISO ranges into the stratosphere, I was wondering if any members have suggestions on what ISO speeds should be used when shooting. Do the high ISO speeds still cause grainy pictures?
Thanks
AP


I stick with 100, which is basic for my camera, D750. However, I can go to 1,000 or more and still get good results. Noise is relative, as far as I'm concerned. If I get a picture I couldn't have gotten otherwise, I'm satisfied. It's also possible to process out unwanted noise.

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Jul 31, 2016 07:34:51   #
mborn Loc: Massachusetts
 
I use higher ISO to keep the settings that I want in terms of shutter speed and f/stop and do not worry about noise. Noise is taken care in PP

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Jul 31, 2016 07:44:58   #
boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander
 
AsiaPaul wrote:
I still think of high ISO speeds as they were used in film days. 100 for sunny days, 400 for sports or night photography. With the new dSLRs having ISO ranges into the stratosphere, I was wondering if any members have suggestions on what ISO speeds should be used when shooting. Do the high ISO speeds still cause grainy pictures?
Thanks
AP


Much has been written about high ISO and noise. Obviously high iso is necessary when light wont allow lower iso. Noise-gasp is"to be avoided at ALL cost" is nonesense. A noisy photo is a whole hell of a lot better than no photo. There is a saying that covers the situation. Perfection is the enemy of good.

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Jul 31, 2016 09:18:48   #
GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan
 
rook2c4 wrote:
Use high ISO when a lower ISO won't allow the aperture/shutter speed combination you want. Essentially, not much different than deciding which speed rated film to load into a film camera.




...and being I've used several upper ISO numbers I try to never go to high. The lower the better.

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Jul 31, 2016 09:19:46   #
WessoJPEG Loc: Cincinnati, Ohio
 
tscali wrote:
I just came back from a trip to Sicily. Night time photography is a whole new world with high ISO. I have the Nikon D750 and it can go up to 52,000. I took pictures in dark churches and it popped the colors. Same with evening and night pictures of mountains and caves. I need to review and edit before I post any. I was amazed at the difference between the Nikon D7000 and the Nikon D750. In other posts the Nikon D500 has an even broader range. I was also surprised at the quality of my wife's iPhone 6 pictures. It does very well is reasonable light.
I just came back from a trip to Sicily. Night time... (show quote)



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Jul 31, 2016 09:20:55   #
WessoJPEG Loc: Cincinnati, Ohio
 
SharpShooter wrote:
Paul, your question is pretty general. High ISO is there, but I avoid it whenever possible. If there is action and low light it's a necessary evil.
In such cases, especially if the light is changing I use Auto-ISO. It will give you the LOWEST ISO for the combination you feel you need to use.
For me, pretty much 6400 is max before the noise is just way to unsightly.
Anytime you can use flash, do so.
There is NO substitute for a fast lens for low light, but then you have DoF issues. I try to not remove noise at the expense of sharpness.
High ISO is sometimes just a necessary evil!!!
SS
Paul, your question is pretty general. High ISO is... (show quote)


Very good answer.

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Jul 31, 2016 09:22:47   #
wj cody Loc: springfield illinois
 
use the lowest possible for the best results.

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Jul 31, 2016 09:23:34   #
WessoJPEG Loc: Cincinnati, Ohio
 
Wonderful
amfoto1 wrote:
Today, with digital, far higher ISO are usable than were ever possible with film.

I shot a lot of ISO 50 and 100 slide film.... 200 tops. If I needed 400 in color, I switched to color neg film. With B&W I shot a lot of fine grain ISO 100 and below, but also more than a little ISO 400 (Tri-X, etc.) and sometimes pushed that to 800 or 1600.

With digital, it's another story....

Even as early as 2004, a 6MP Canon 10D was great at ISO 800 in color;



5 or 6 years ago, the image below was shot with a 21MP Canon 5DII at ISO 6400, with no special processing at all... just a RAW conversion using Lightroom at default settings.



Two months ago I shot an event with a pair of 20MP 7D Mark II, new to me, at ISO 8000 and 16000, after doing some test shots, including the image below at 16000...



Yes, there is some noise in the above image, which is a RAW conversion done in Lightroom at default settings. I've made some 11x14 prints from images shot at ISO 16000 at the event... with some extra post-processing.

One thing with really high ISOs is to avoid underexposure. You don't want to have to boost exposure in post-processing, as that will also greatly increase the appearance of image noise. Nikon/Sony sensors are a little bit more tolerant of underexposure at ISOs up to 800, but at 1600 and higher Canon is about the same.

Image "noise" occurs due to heat and crosstalk between individual pixel sites. It's essentially the camera recording an incorrect color at a particular pixel site. In color it can look pretty ugly.

There is noise reduction built into the cameras and in post-processing software. In addition to the NR built into Lightroom and Photoshop, with really high ISO shots I use a more advanced Noiseware plug-in. I've recently been experimenting with Nik NR plug-in, too. There are several others.

In-camera NR is two types.... high ISO and long exposure.... that are handled a bit differently. High ISO NR simply tries to deal with and correct odd colors at a fine pixel level in images. Long exposure NR (1 second or longer) in a lot of cameras is actually done by taking two shots.... the second one being a "blank" shot with the shutter closed, which the camera uses to identify where noise is occurring and then delete it from the first image. (I don't know about other brands of cameras, but in Canon if you have LENR enabled and forget how it works, think something is wrong and cancel the second exposure, the first one is automatically deleted too!)

Another thing you can do to deal with image noise is convert to black & white. In monotone, the noise looks more like film grain, which is a lot less objectionable.

Keeping the cat theme going, even in 2007 an 8MP Canon 30D ISO 800 image is easily handled, the "grain" doesn't even show up at Internet sizes and resolutions...



I've run out of cat-theme high ISO images, but you might even want to use higher ISOs deliberately, for a more film-like look....



Above was shot with 5DII at ISO 800, which it handles easily.

I use ISO 400 as my default with 7D-series cameras. (Original 7D actually got noisier are lower ISOs... maybe they're programmed to turn off in-camera NR below 400.)
Today, with digital, far higher ISO are usable tha... (show quote)


Wonderful, thanks

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Jul 31, 2016 09:29:57   #
camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.
 
Mr. Myers has given you a great explanation of using high ISO settings in camera along with some excellent photographs. I will add something to the thread but he has covered practically everything to perfection.
We simply select high ISO settings when the light conditions call for it. As has been well explained, modern cameras have no issues shooting at ISO 800 and the majority of the new sensors, especially full frame ones, do an extraordinarily good job keeping noise low at high ISO settings.
It is impossible to suggest which ISO to set in camera for a specific lighting condition, that is something that you can only decide unless someone else with experience is there with you to guide you.
As I said, modern cameras do very well at high ISO although at times, especially if contemplating enlargements a noise reduction program offers great help and it is very useful.

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Jul 31, 2016 09:59:32   #
ggttc Loc: TN
 
wmurnahan wrote:
I was always pushing my 400 to 800+ in developing and always wished for more.


Yes...pushed the iso to 800 a lot...sometimes to 1600...I, like many of you older folks get queasy when my iso goes over 400...after all that was our world back then and the old habits still stick with us...

But todays cameras and the accompanying software is some remarkable stuff...

Shot some birds at 12,500 and used topaz denoise 6 ...and it is a godsend for noisy photos.

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Jul 31, 2016 10:17:29   #
RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA
 
wmurnahan wrote:
I was always pushing my 400 to 800+ in developing and always wished for more.

35mm ASA 400 film was great for sandstorm pictures - didn't need a sandstorm.

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Jul 31, 2016 12:41:29   #
BartHx
 
Bye, bye Acufine!

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Jul 31, 2016 12:59:38   #
Jules Karney Loc: Las Vegas, Nevada
 
skiman wrote:
With today's sensors you can go much higher on the iso but it depends on the sensor, software, and what the images will be used for. I have a Nikon 7100 and use iso 800 for night sports and because I am posting the images for computer screen viewing 150 dpi they turn out fine. My suggestion is to bracket an immage at a full range of ISO values to see what your camera can do in some different shooting situations. I think you might be supprised at what modern sensors and the camera software can do theese days. Of course you need to be using some late model equipment.
With today's sensors you can go much higher on the... (show quote)


Hi Skiman: In the fall I will start to shoot night football games here in Las Vegas.
I have a Nikon d-7100 and plan on using my 70-200 2.8 lens. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks in advance.

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Jul 31, 2016 13:06:03   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
AsiaPaul wrote:
I still think of high ISO speeds as they were used in film days. 100 for sunny days, 400 for sports or night photography. With the new dSLRs having ISO ranges into the stratosphere, I was wondering if any members have suggestions on what ISO speeds should be used when shooting. Do the high ISO speeds still cause grainy pictures?
Thanks
AP


ISO invariance is something can affect what you set your camera for. The two images below were underexposed 4 and 5 stops respectively. The noise is no different than if I had set the ISO for neutral exposure, which basically would have been the same shutter speed and aperture, with no underexposure indicated in the camera.

I used a D800 (which is "almost" ISO invariant), ISO 100, 1/50, and a 24-70 F2.8 Nikkor lens. for both images. The first image was 4 stops underexposed, the second 5 stops under - the equivalent of "pushing" to 1600 and 3200 ISO respectively. Noise reduction was 32% in each image.

I basically went from one dark room to another less dark without fussing with the exposure settings or ISO. The only downside is if you are the type of photographer that is accustomed to "chimping" - an image underexposed 4 or 5 stops does not appear on the camera's preview screen, so you have to get the composition and estimate your EV correctly within that 5 stop window, at least on a D800.


(Download)


(Download)

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Jul 31, 2016 13:08:52   #
LambertJooe Loc: napa
 
I shake a little - so my grandson set my ISO at 800 and that is where I shoot everything! Works for me.

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