some rust (Page 2): I use a combination of Hydrogen Peroxide and WD-40 Rust Remover. I apply the Peroxide with a dropper let it stand for a while, then I clean it with a dry rag. Then...

alabau Loc: Ft Lauderdale, Florida

I use a combination of Hydrogen Peroxide and WD-40 Rust Remover. I apply the Peroxide with a dropper let it stand for a while, then I clean it with a dry rag. Then I apply the WD-40 Rust Remover with a Q-tip and let set. Wipe away with a dry rag.

Zone-System-Grandpa Loc: Springfield, Ohio

bob fleer wrote:

Hot weather lots of sweat and of course I dripped some on my hot shoe and did not notice. The next day noticed some rust from the salt on the hot shoe it works fine but what is the best way to remove the rust?

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Get yourself a tube of "Flitz." It is the absolute best ! Rub some onto the hot shoe and wipe off to a high polish. The Flitz also has a preservative in it that will help protect the metal from any further rust.

wj cody Loc: springfield illinois

Jim Bob wrote:

Don't know about the best way. But a little isopropyl alcohol should handle that issue.

yes, on a q tip, should take care of that. if really nasty, we use a product called CLR, again, a little on a q tip. good luck!

Billyspad Loc: The Philippines

Angle grinder should shift it!

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

bob fleer wrote:

Hot weather lots of sweat and of course I dripped some on my hot shoe and did not notice. The next day noticed some rust from the salt on the hot shoe it works fine but what is the best way to remove the rust?

Works for me.

JCam Loc: MD Eastern Shore

If the rust is really stubborn, and after only an overnight, it shouldn't be, you might try using a small piece of 2000 grit wet or dry Emory paper with a very light machine oil as the wetting agent; don't use a heavy hand/finger sanding the shoe. It is so fine you probably won't even be able to see the scratches. When it is cleaned to your satisfaction clean with alcohol, pure, not the Rubbing Alcohols stuff; it has water in it.

Toment Loc: FL, IL

Pablo8 wrote:

I use the graphite from rubbing a 'lead' pencil over the contacts. Dry, and no oily residue. Now then...What arguments are there against the pencil?

I use the eraser LOL

wj cody Loc: springfield illinois

Toment wrote:

I use the eraser LOL

yes, this is another technique which can often work. thanks for posting this for the folks!

bob fleer Loc: Annapolis, MD

thanks to all something for your ideas.

Orca Loc: Little Egg Harbor, NJ USA

Zone-System-Grandpa wrote:

+++++++++++++++++++++++

Get yourself a tube of "Flitz." It is the absolute best ! Rub some onto the hot shoe and wipe off to a high polish. The Flitz also has a preservative in it that will help protect the metal from any further rust.

A very mild abrasive. Use with cotton swab or soft cloth.

James R. Kyle Loc: Saint Louis, Missouri (A Suburb of Ferguson)

marki3rd wrote:

Very bad advise. Won't catch me putting WD40 anywhere near one of my cameras.

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That is Correct.....

AND If You happen to have firearms = Do NOT use it on them as well. Particularly that of "Center-Fire" cartridges. It WILL 'Wet' the Primers and you will have a "miss-fire".

Some years ago - I saw it in 1969 - a bulletin in the police department where I was working. A few of the cops were killed in a gunfight where their handguns did not fire when needed.... Of course this was discovered AFTER the fact.

I clean my cameras with Grain Alcohol - there is No Residue. You can get this usually wherever liquor is sold = EVERCLEAR.

WD-40 contains no oil - However.... NEVER USE ANY OILY ANYTHING on or even Near your camera. NEVER.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Rongnongno wrote:

Only one... Graphite is a conductor, too much of it and zap!!!

Just wipe it off.

Best advice so far thought.

What I wonder is since when does the camera industry uses steel in hot shoe contacts... THAT puzzles me.

That surprises me as well - I would have expected plated copper or beryllium-copper or similar. I wonder if it was actually rust or some other oxide. I examined my camera, expecting to see gold plating, but was surprised that it wasn't. when I started at IBM in the mid 60s, we used a burnishing tool to clean contacts - about half the width of an emory board with a very fine abrasive surface - about the grain of a diamond polishing stone. Wish I had saved a few...

Big Bill Loc: Phoenix, AZ

rook2c4 wrote:

WD-40 is perfectly okay to clean rust from the hot shoe; experienced camera restorers often use it for projects such as this. Just make sure to wipe it off thoroughly afterwards. However, WD-40 is not recommended to clean delicate mechanical parts (such as shutter blades) or lens glass.

If you're going to use WD-40 for this, cover the rest of the camera thoroughly.
Clean up afterwards using something like a lens cleaner (I use eyeglass cleaner; high alcohol content is what you want).

For those who think WD-40 contains no oil, try spraying it on a mirror.

larryzplace Loc: Elk Grove Village Illinois

bob fleer wrote:

Hot weather lots of sweat and of course I dripped some on my hot shoe and did not notice. The next day noticed some rust from the salt on the hot shoe it works fine but what is the best way to remove the rust?

One of the best solutions for the problem is a "pink pearl" eraser... Used them for 30 years in the machine tool industry... Recommended by our electronics division... Used carefully they work great... Solved many a problem on contacts...

Ka2azman Loc: Tucson, Az

I agree with larryplace an eraser but if that doesn't work try a heavy corded cloth. We use to use a piece of belt webbing (a weaved belt) on our firearms for rust while in the Marine Corps. Also there are electrical cleaners that are dielectric made for cleaning electrical components. I would never use anything abrasive like emery cloth or an oil base product that makes it hard to get friction to rub the rust off.