nicksr1125 Loc: Mesa, AZ

These 3 pictures are of a Roma Tomato from 1 of the plants growing on our patio. It's about 2½" long. Several of them exhibit the same problem. Do any of our agriculturally minded Hoggers have any idea what's going on with this fruit?

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melismus Loc: Chesapeake Bay Country

First pic looks like something for the Boudoir section. ;)

mrtobin Loc: North East Ohio

Blossom end rot? Caused by insufficient calcium and inconsistent watering.

Phreedom Loc: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

It looks like Tomato Blossom Rot.
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/tomato/tomato-blossom-rot.htm

1Feathercrest Loc: NEPA

Blossom end rot.

dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho

Some of my zucchini looks like that too. After diligent searching I discovered it was blossom end rot due to inconsistent watering and lack of calcium.

Dennis

bobmcculloch Loc: NYC, NY

Try putting crushed egg shells near the base of the plant, I also deliberately grow or buy leggy transplants, break off leaves and plant extra deep, helps some , tomatoes make more roots from the buried stems , old fashioned tips, Bob.

Sirsnapalot Loc: Hammond, Louisiana

Bingo! You are exactly right! Here is a YouTube explaining the problem.

https://youtu.be/i0febDi7iak

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

I just found this article, by coincidence.

https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/innovations/wp/2016/07/28/the-future-of-produce-is-ugly/?wpisrc=nl_rainbow&wpmm=1

jamitjim73 Loc: Franklin,Tn.

Correct answer

rhadams824 Loc: Arkansas

For those long stem, leggy tomato plants try digging a six inch deep trench, lay the stem in the trench with the end turned up. Cover the stem, leaving a depression for watering. Tomatoes roots need to be well oxygenated and this keeps the roots closer to the surface. Work dolomite lime into the garden some 9-12 months before planting to increase the pH and available calcium and magnesium.

If the pH is where it needs to be (6.0 to 6.8) use Calcium Sulfate (gypsum) to provide calcium without changing the pH. This also helps a soil higher in clay content to be in a better growing condition.

I use slow release fertilizers with micronutients (2-3 months) and (8-9 months) worked into the soil prior to planting so I don't have to fertilize during the growing season. If you don't like 'commercial fertilizers' use composted materials. They break down into the same nutrient form but the compost will also feed the plant slowly, increase the water and nutrient holding capacity and improve the structure (aeration and water infiltration) of soils higher in clay content.

Where you receive high amounts of rain I use raised beds for internal drainage because tomatoes don't like 'wet feet' and use drip irrigation on a timer to water where and when it is needed. I also mulch with organic compost or shredded paper. Don't put the drip tubes under the mulch because rats and mice may hide under the mulch, chew on the tubes and mess up your watering system. Put the drip tubes on top of tomato cages if used to protect them from chewing teeth and you can better check the tubes to make sure they are operating correctly. Be sure to use a very fine filter on the system to make keep the very small drip holes from stopping up.

I know, TMI. Professors don't know when to stop talking or writing.

I'm sure others have different suggestions but this works for me.

foathog Loc: Greensboro, NC

Egg shells are a long term solution. by the time they break down it will be too late. Try mixing calcium chloride with water (look up mixture) and water your plants with it. google calcium chloride for blossom end rot. It's best to prepare your soil in the fall by adding lime to the soil. by the time spring rollss around it will have been all broken down and ready for use by the plant. And be careful not to overwater your plants.

Fat Gregory Loc: Southern New Jersey

Keep your egg shells. Break up and distribute around base of plant. Sharp edges keep most slithering bugs off and the calcium feeds the plant and makes the fruit better. In my experience tomatoes like their "feet wet" so water before completely dry.

paulrph1 Loc: Washington, Utah

Blossom end rot. Add 1/2 cup gypsum per plant and do that at initial PLANTING to prevent future problems.

natron

A good source (at least it works for me) of the calcium is the chalk they use to mark athletic fields…it doesn’t take much…while you’re at it, if you have a white fly problem, get a bag of ‘worm castings’ and mix some of that with your soil; it’s a good nutrient, and it works like magic preventing white fly damage…I get it at the county farm supply store.