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Manual or Apeture priority
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Jul 15, 2016 11:24:38   #
chapjohn Loc: Tigard, Oregon
 
The answer is that there is a difference. Why is there is difference? As BP says in your reading, there are at least six technically correct exposure settings for any scene. Our job as the photographer is to use the most creative setting. Allowing the camera to auto any part of the settings is giving up your creative control of the camera. As you learn what your camera does in certain situations and how each lens sees things, you will be able to use auto settings creatively.

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Jul 15, 2016 12:18:14   #
Sinewsworn Loc: Port Orchard, WA
 
chapjohn wrote:
The answer is that there is a difference. Why is there is difference? As BP says in your reading, there are at least six technically correct exposure settings for any scene. Our job as the photographer is to use the most creative setting. Allowing the camera to auto any part of the settings is giving up your creative control of the camera. As you learn what your camera does in certain situations and how each lens sees things, you will be able to use auto settings creatively.


Also let's not forget the fact that many of our DSLRs are ISO invariant.

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Jul 15, 2016 12:53:45   #
jimmya Loc: Phoenix
 
ddub wrote:
I am reading understanding exposure and he now has me confused.

If I am taking a picture and I decide the dof I need requires F11, what is the difference between being in Manual mode and putting in F11 and then rotating the dial until it shows a correct exposure, or simply being in A priority putting in F11 and taking the shot?


F11 is f11 regardless of whether it's manual, auto or aperture priority (also manual). What does matter is the other camera settings along with it such as ISO, shutter speed.

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Jul 15, 2016 13:01:20   #
BebuLamar
 
chapjohn wrote:
The answer is that there is a difference. Why is there is difference? As BP says in your reading, there are at least six technically correct exposure settings for any scene. Our job as the photographer is to use the most creative setting. Allowing the camera to auto any part of the settings is giving up your creative control of the camera. As you learn what your camera does in certain situations and how each lens sees things, you will be able to use auto settings creatively.


Although I use manual mode often and never use the exposure compensation but with most of DSLR's today I can make it set just about any settings I want when in program mode. One just have to use the program shift feature, the exposure compensation, the exposure lock, pointing camera in different directions.

With program shift I can make the camera select any of the shutter/aperture combination for the same amount of exposure. To change the amount of exposure just dial in the exposure compensation. When the amount of compensation exceed the +/- 5EV or so. Point the camera at a brighter or darker subject to make it indicate the setting you want then lock the exposure. It's more work than manual but sure you do not lose any control when using program mode.

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Jul 15, 2016 13:28:16   #
Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.
 
Sinewsworn wrote:
Also let's not forget the fact that many of our DSLRs are ISO invariant.


Can you clarify that please? I'm not at all sure what you mean by 'ISO invariant'. Even film is ISO variable depending upon how it is processed.

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Jul 15, 2016 14:25:16   #
SteveR Loc: Michigan
 
I like to use either shutter priority or aperture priority depending upon the shot. However, I never use auto ISO. I select the ISO that I believe the lighting requires, select my aperture (for instance) and take a test shot. That will show me what the shutter speed will be. IF I am not happy with the shutter speed, I can adjust either my ISO selection or my aperture choice so that while still in aperture priority I have the speed, aperture, and ISO with which I am pleased. It's very close to shooting in manual.

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Jul 15, 2016 19:02:18   #
bkellyusa Loc: Nashville, TN
 
Jcmarino wrote:


Here is a good example: Say you are outside shooting a sporting event and you want f/11. The sun may be going in and out and at the moment you want to shoot the light may not be as bright as you would like. You take the shot. Preview, your son, sliding into home is all blurry. Now you look at your settings and the they read, f/11, ISO 100, 1/60 sec. The exposure is perfect. But you did not want the person blurry! So you switch to manual, select f/11, shutter 1/500 or higher to stop the action and your ISO may have to go to 400. If your ISO has to go up so high that you have noise, you may want to lower your aperture. Some may say, well in this case, just soot shutter priority. But again the camera may select a lower aperture or a higher ISO resulting in a look you do not want. Your son may be sharp but you may have so much noise it does not matter, or the umpire designating your son is safe may be totally blurred out. In manual you can have it all.
br br Here is a good example: Say you are outsi... (show quote)


Jcmarino,

You said it all for me. I can't see a single use for AP or SP other than they are possibly faster to use but with less predictable results. I've had much better photographers than me try to talk me into using those modes but the merit in doing so seems to be over my head.

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Jul 15, 2016 19:25:42   #
TheDman Loc: USA
 
Jcmarino wrote:
In aperture priority (AP) the camera selects your ISO and shutter speed based on the aperture you picked. Your exposure will be correct in this case. If you turn to manual and pick f/11, you have to determine the ISO and shutter speed. In AP with f/11 your ISO the camera picks may be very high and even though the exposure is correct, you may see a lot of noise or the camera may determine the shutter speed should be 1/40 sec, in which case you may see some camera blur. In AP its all about the camera getting the exposure right, disregarding control or creativity. In manual you have full control to get the exposure right as well as being creative.

Here is a good example: Say you are outside shooting a sporting event and you want f/11. The sun may be going in and out and at the moment you want to shoot the light may not be as bright as you would like. You take the shot. Preview, your son, sliding into home is all blurry. Now you look at your settings and the they read, f/11, ISO 100, 1/60 sec. The exposure is perfect. But you did not want the person blurry! So you switch to manual, select f/11, shutter 1/500 or higher to stop the action and your ISO may have to go to 400. If your ISO has to go up so high that you have noise, you may want to lower your aperture. Some may say, well in this case, just soot shutter priority. But again the camera may select a lower aperture or a higher ISO resulting in a look you do not want. Your son may be sharp but you may have so much noise it does not matter, or the umpire designating your son is safe may be totally blurred out. In manual you can have it all.
In aperture priority (AP) the camera selects your ... (show quote)



Say you're in manual, your son is standing on 2nd, it's a bright sunny day and you've already dialed in the perfect exposure for when your son goes into action. Base hit, your son rounds 3rd, and you have the camera up to your eye focus tracking him around 3rd, you click just as he slides into home, failing to notice that a cloud covered the home plate area and your shot is too dark.

What could have handled that? Any of the other modes.

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Jul 15, 2016 19:53:21   #
Bunkershot Loc: Central Florida
 
Absolutely spot on and we'll said.

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Jul 15, 2016 20:13:19   #
Sinewsworn Loc: Port Orchard, WA
 
Peterff wrote:
Can you clarify that please? I'm not at all sure what you mean by 'ISO invariant'. Even film is ISO variable depending upon how it is processed.


Try improvephotography.com> ISO-invariance

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Jul 15, 2016 20:19:46   #
Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.
 
Sinewsworn wrote:
Try improvephotography.com> ISO-invariance


Ah, I see. http://improvephotography.com/34818/iso-invariance/

Looks like blogger / website / marketing BS to me, I don't really buy into the concept but I understand what is being said. It doesn't really add anything new other than a different way to think about things or play with technique. It isn't a technology thing, just sort of 'under expose and be damned!"

Some people may find it interesting or useful, others may not.

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Jul 15, 2016 22:21:54   #
Sinewsworn Loc: Port Orchard, WA
 
Peterff wrote:
Ah, I see. http://improvephotography.com/34818/iso-invariance/

Looks like blogger / website / marketing BS to me, I don't really buy into the concept but I understand what is being said. It doesn't really add anything new other than a different way to think about things or play with technique. It isn't a technology thing, just sort of 'under expose and be damned!"

Some people may find it interesting or useful, others may not.


Helps with acceptance, I think. Accepting the fact that the sun sets, limiting sweet light in the morning and evening. So, some exposures could be under or dark, but may be salvaged.

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Jul 15, 2016 23:10:12   #
Jcmarino
 
TheDman wrote:
Say you're in manual, your son is standing on 2nd, it's a bright sunny day and you've already dialed in the perfect exposure for when your son goes into action. Base hit, your son rounds 3rd, and you have the camera up to your eye focus tracking him around 3rd, you click just as he slides into home, failing to notice that a cloud covered the home plate area and your shot is too dark.

What could have handled that? Any of the other modes.
setting your ISO to auto would help in that situation. A little noise if any is better than a blurred shot.

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Jul 15, 2016 23:11:46   #
Peterff Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.
 
Sinewsworn wrote:
Helps with acceptance, I think. Accepting the fact that the sun sets, limiting sweet light in the morning and evening. So, some exposures could be under or dark, but may be salvaged.


Could be true, and if it helps, use it. It has always been thus, though, hasn't it?

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Jul 16, 2016 00:45:34   #
TheDman Loc: USA
 
Jcmarino wrote:
setting your ISO to auto would help in that situation. A little noise if any is better than a blurred shot.


But you said that the photo could be too noisy, and that in manual I could have it all!

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