chapjohn Loc: Tigard, Oregon

At lot of indoor weddings flash is NOT allowed because it distracts everyone from the event. However, if the photographer sets up strobes around the sanctuary and triggers them remotely most officiates allow this as this set up is not distracting.

The last indoor wedding I officiated the photographer (using the popup flash on her camera) said to me that if she could not use flash she would not be able to get pictures (I also suspect she using auto setting). She became the center of attention instead of the bride. The point is that as a photographer at any event, you want to be not seen.

For dances and concerts ask if you can be there for dress rehersal and shoot. Usually all the lights are on and you do not need flash. During these times you can get to places off limits during the actual show. It is all about POV and the viewer will not know that you got the image during rehersal.

St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet

Great advice! S-

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

Yungnuo's 600EX-RT at $118 will fit nicely within your budget and it is an almost clone of the Canon (and it plays well with them as well)!

canon Lee

Shooter, he probably holding on to the 7D as back up or he may use it with another lens.

ted.herman Loc: Chatsworth, CA

Have been shooting dance competitions for over 7 years and flash is a NO NO! Competitors hate the flash as it can disorient them. Also, have had great photos ruined by someone with a flash as I shot. Lighting at competitions is bad enough without photo flashes.

lowkick Loc: Connecticut

Since you are experienced and have told the opportunity what not to do, why not give him some tips on how to shoot a dance competition?

BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

JD750 Loc: SoCal

For moving subjects far away?

JD750 Loc: SoCal

A snoot is a cone like device that restricts the flash output to a narrower angle. It is typically used for accent lighting.

lowkick Loc: Connecticut

Damned auto correct! Opportunity was supposed to be OP for original poster.

Maik723

Thanks. BTW, in lieu of flash, what lens and settings have you employed in your 7-years of shooting dance competitions. In general of course (I know the lighting is different for each situation).

ted.herman Loc: Chatsworth, CA

Thanks to those who asked. Don't know if this will help or not. My current camera is a Sony A7ii. I will alternate 28-70 and 18-200 lens. Sony is a great low light camera, so my settings are mostly from experience. I start fully automatic, then make adjustments from there depending on multiple factors in the room.

Typically dance competitions have approx 24 couples in quarter finals, narrowed to 12 in semi's and 6 for the finals. The dance floor is usually about 4,000 square feet. Lighting is mostly terrible, from too much or too little and too many flashing colors. There are numerous levels of competition from novice to professional and many dance categories, typically American Smooth and International Ballroom, which tend to dress in the flowing dressy gowns and tuxedos, and American Rhythm and International Latin with the ladies outfits designed by structural engineers to keep everything in place. Each category has certain rules as to the moves and steps the dancers can take. I concentrate on the professionals. Most categories include 5 different dances lasting approximately 60 to 70 seconds each with a 15 second break in between. There are only a small number of moves couples can make in the short time period. Also, colors of the outfits are a problem in combination with the lighting. I start with the quarter finals, looking first for interesting couples and the routine they dance. I want to watch mostly the ones that have a chance to move on. Most will do 10 to 12 steps, then repeat once or twice during the time period. I try to remember their routine and then anticipate a good shot. The floor is very crowded, so I shoot mostly to get into the competition mode and check for any camera adjustments that need to be made.

Semi's are less crowded and am more into the flow of the dancers. Another chance to adjust camera settings. As lighting brightness and color are so different in different facilities, I can't recommend camera settings that would meet everyone's needs. In the finals, there are only 6 couples on the floor, so by now, I know which couples I want to concentrate on. Again, interesting couples and color/style of outfits are more important that the dance ability. Most ladies will change outfits for the finals, so some camera adjustments may need to be made. Black outfits are the worst to shoot and lighting is darker for the finals. After the competition is over, there are usually "show dances" by the best dancers, where there are "no rules" as to the moves. Lighting here is usually by spotlight following the couple or group dancing. Best chances here for good shots. Again, lighting is a problem, so need to adjust settings on the fly.

I tend to take a lot of shots, perhaps 2,000 for two days, then narrow down to about 100, then down to about 25. (As Wayne Gretsky said, "you miss 100% of the shots you don't take"). Then into photoshop to get just the "feel" I want.... whatever strikes my fancy. I tend to keep the top 100 shots and check back a year to two later, letting me take a fresh look. Am working now processing photos as digital negatives with fun results. I find that galleries don't want to exhibit photos by anyone except the very top level photographers. Interesting that most painters want to make their work look like a photo, while many photographers like me want to make their work look like a painting as a way to get into galleries.

Hope this helps. Good luck and take time to enjoy the dancing.... Ted

lowkick Loc: Connecticut

So you start from auto mode and then adjust from there? Do you use a special shooting mode in auto (like sports mode)? Could you be a little more specific? Like, because of the speed of the dancers, you should probably start your shutter speed to at least a 125th of a second, and because you are shooting couples, or more, your aperture should probably start at about an f/8 for enough depth of field. Set your ISO to auto and your focus on averaging (unless you want to focus on a single dancer). Then start taking shots and chimping. Adjust your shutter speed to a faster setting,if necessary, and your f/stop to a higher number (smaller opening) if necessary. Oh, by the way, with the difficult lighting situation (low light and changing light), it might be smart best to shoot in RAW so you can adjust white balance in PP. You might try auto WB, but the camera will probably be fooled by the changing lighting. I would also suggest using back button focusing to keep up with the action.