DennisK Loc: Pickle City,Illinois

Umm are you by chance trying to auto focus through a screen window?

Edit: Nevermind. I re-read your previous post saying you were in the back yard.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

How true. Since I'm not limited by 36 exposures on a roll of film, I can take a lot of shots at different angles and settings and pick the one that looks best.

kmohr3 Loc: Rockford, IL

I have a Canon EF75-300mm f4-5.6 III USM. This lens is a non-IS lens anyway. After having this lens for a short time I realized I would have to upgrade to something with better optics, and IS, and bought the EF70-300 IS.

I can still get half decent pictures with the 75-300, but it must be in very bright light with a fast shutter speed.

There is such thing as a Canon 75-300mm (IS), but I've only seen one once at a camera store, and I don't think they are very common.

Maybe you should try renting a different zoom lens for a few days and see if your 'keeper' rate is any better.

Indi Loc: L. I., NY, Palm Beach Cty when it's cold.

It is my understanding that you might not get the sharpest focus at the full 300mm. Try backing off to 275-290 and see if the image sharpens.
As others have suggested, IS off on a tripod and remote release also help.

twowindsbear

Pappy - I'm curious. . . how does METERING, whether it is spot or partial have any thing to do with what is in focus or out of focus?

Thanks

twowindsbear

First of all I'll suggest using a different feeder. Try 1 with only 1 perch - so the birds will land where you KNOW they will. This will allow you to fine-tune your focus.

Maybe consider a slightly different location - if you're having problems with shadows reducing your light so much.

Most of all, keep shooting!!!! You will get a LOT of 'misses' for each 'keeper.'

Good luck & post more pix!

BOB Loc: Texas

G4 Loc: Metro NYC/Jerseyside

Pinkycat
If you do not have a cable release you may want to get one. Until you do you can try mirror lock up, or use a quick timer release.

Do not get discouraged, burds are an acquired skill. Stay with it and try the advice by the others given here, as it can only help

davpal Loc: long island

have some one else take a picture of a object then you take a picture if your picture is blurry then it is very possible your eye
sight should be checked

GiantInk1 Loc: Greater Boston, Ma

PinkyCat, I am not sure if you have gotten your answer yet, but I had this same question, @ a D1100(T3), so I thought I'd add my 11/2 cents. *btw 'Nikon', was funny, but until you get used to them 'WE' get a lot of setting adjustment & training by default,( as most won't fire unless accurate !). Fun aside, guys, I shoot a D1100 & I found the difference in 300mm lenses, incl date made, manufacturer, & even newer 75-300 all lose sharpness at max distance. Also many people find older LD lenses off film bodies, w/ slide zoom, I do a lot of work & modification on lenses, so I am very selective. I have had 2 Canon EF 75-300's w/ literally 2 distinct sweet spots, many times. In reading answers I, IMHO, think that A. The 'button' note is very likely, as the 1/2 depress meters & composes shot, &* the T3 has deep settings, allowing for blurred edges, + more* but gave up 'spot' metering. Evaluative is best esp. LD shooting; B. ISO, Canon took a lot of time to design this cam & feat set, let the camera do the work UNTIL you get comfortable. Over complicating is a very common cause for, poor pic results. B4 I write a manual, focusing on the feeder is good to set up a shot, but the camera is going to focus on the subject, or NOT in this case,( theory good, adjust a tad now). Good Luck (sorry to all, I'm a bit long winded!)

clixpix Loc: Surprise, Arizona

Another thought--you are giving the bird too many places to land on the feeder so focus is difficult. For my Hummingbird photos I have a general multi-station feeder. When I go out to photograph I replace it with a one tube feeder so the bird only has one place to go and that is where I pre-focus. If that feeding port is parallel to the plane of the camera your birds should be in focus when they come to feed.

Good Luck

GiantInk1 Loc: Greater Boston, Ma

Reading answers, the filter note hit me. The new Digic processor in the D1100, is a dual layer, and 'predicts' based on similar colors, a subject. A good, brandname UV, even a Polorizer in sunlight Should Not, (good bright sunlight ), effect focus. A cheap, or smudged one may though. A recent IR undertaking reminded me of this, & btw, although I used my Nikon, I grabbed the D1100 for fun,( forgetting the Tiffen Polo on it ) I popped on a 720nmh & couldn't even meter w/ out totally blowing out W/Balance. I had been previously doing a B & W project & super adjusted settings. I again say, start from 0, lighting Optimizer (Y) normal, don't use enhanced let the Camera do it,( shoot w/ histogram; 'instant data!'. Like above focus on the perch, not the feeder, find away to not use 300mm, any lens maxed out is trouble. GL

Harvey Loc: Pioneer, CA

If you don't have a remote/cable release use the camera self timer to avoid camera shat of the slightest amount.

stevenelson Loc: Pauls Valley, Oklahoma

Try using high speed shooting when hand holding. You will have a better chance of getting a good shot.

CAM1017 Loc: Chiloquin, Oregon

Are you shooting in RAW or JPEG? Do you do any post processing on your computer in a photo program?