rogerl wrote:
I'm just learning Photoshop Elements 14 (Christmas present) so I took the liberty of running your photo through Auto Haze Removal. This is the result (I lightened it a little as Haze removal tends to darken a touch).
Hey thanks! It looks pretty good! I've been told different ways to do it with elements 11 I will post results soon
Here is the one I did! It turned out pretty good!
rogerl
Loc: UK (Harrogate, North Yorkshire)
Leppi_Tobe wrote:
Here is the one I did! It turned out pretty good!
From my earlier post, Photoshop Elements 14 seems to remove even more of the haze.
Would a polarizing filter or an ND filter help when shooting this kind of scene? Would one of these two filters help to correctly expose the foreground and give the background mountains some definition? I realize the sky looks very washed out so maybe the time of day will help.
In the CS2 version of Photoshop (or similar?), you can try the Select/Color Range option to nicely select the mountains you want to change the color/value of. Then experiment to see what works for what you want.
But I agree the 'aerial perspective' (fading in distance) is also a nice part of the composition.
Frankly, I like it the way it is. The haze adds something to it. Like reality.
Frankly, I like it the way it is. The haze adds something to it. Like reality.
I like the photo, and at the same time I see what you are asking. When I look at the photo my first point of focus is the trees. When I've had that problem, and I've posted it here, I find the camera (or I) have focused on something than what I wanted. As an example, I shot a family reunion, must have had 100 plus people. I checked and rechecked my focus points, (D7100) and it showed the group. Once at home and reviewing the photos almost all were sharp on the trees in the background, fuzzy faces all the way around the family.
So my question, can you shoot that and focus on the mountains and if so would that make a difference, (or am I just talking from inexperience)??
Leppi_Tobe wrote:
Hi everyone, Im wondering how people seem to get mountains in perfectly clearity. I could be there at the wrong time of day, the wrong clearness of the day, or do they simply use post editing techniques?
The photo was taken with my Nikon D3200 with...
ISO = 200
F stop = 20
Shutter Speed = 1/160
Shot with an 18-55 lens
What picture quality setting did you use? Have you ever shot in Raw? I am not familiar with your camera. For scenes like this I always try to shoot in raw and bracket the exposures to give more flexibility in pp. HDR could be used however, in my experience it can sometimes detract from the mood of shots such as this one.
Late to the game, but you shot this at the wrong time, haze or no haze. Nice shot though. Sunset or sunrise is your best friend. Mid day isn't the time to shoot for keepers.
Leppi_Tobe wrote:
Hi everyone, Im wondering how people seem to get mountains in perfectly clearity. I could be there at the wrong time of day, the wrong clearness of the day, or do they simply use post editing techniques?
The photo was taken with my Nikon D3200 with...
ISO = 200
F stop = 20
Shutter Speed = 1/160
Shot with an 18-55 lens
You may have had more success with sharpness at f11 or f16, using smaller apertures does not necessarily mean you will get a sharper shot. I'd say there is a possibility that the distance and your lens did not agree with each other, as in the lens might not be capable of handling that distance. The WB could be adjusted to a warmer tone. Nicer landscapes usually result when you take the shot in the soft morning light or the soft evening light and clouds, storms, and other weather events help a great deal. Plain blue skies are usually the most uninteresting shots unless the plain blue sky has a point to make. Also, try to find a focal point in your landscape shot that stands out and directs the eye, snow on the mountain, a tree at the ridge line, something to provide definition in the photo. Light and dark help to define mountains and foreground so look for a shot with highs and lows to provide contrast in the shot if the weather or scene is not helping out. Keep at it and you'll work it out. And don't be afraid to experiment in processing, make the scene yours which requires that you have a vision when you shoot it. Look at the compositional elements and see how they affect the scene. In the scene below Half Dome and the tree are leaning the same way and the clouds are flowing in the same direction. There is a foreground, a middle ground, and a background. I knew the light was going to come up in that exact spot. It was not exactly the photo I wanted but I plan to return again this year to do it over and get it right: I live an hour and one-half away from Yosemite. Scout your scenes out and plan to return when you can get a better shot. It often takes a lot of work to get a good landscape. But, you can still keep hoping for that once in a lifetime shot that works perfectly the first time.
Looks like forest fire smoke to me. People back east don't see that much. Once the fires start I put my camera away till some rain comes. Which in AZ (and where I live in ID) might be the end of September.
Going to AK next week to escape the smoke...
Leppi_Tobe wrote:
Hey thanks! It looks pretty good! I've been told different ways to do it with elements 11 I will post results soon
After reading all the posts, the bottom line is time of day, and also, which day. What I can see from my house, on some days, they are barely visible. On other days, clear as a bell, provided the sun is at the optimum angle.
one other thought -- go infrared. The long wavelengths of IR can cut though that haze and still generate nice B&W images.
If you go to this link that I created tonight, you will see an example where I merged the results of a color image with a Infrared Image using the IR image to improve the contrast and detail on distant scenes. I saw this post earlier and thought that there had to be a way to combine and to keep the original color.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-407529-1.html
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