CLP1943 wrote:
I have several thousand color slides that I would like to digitize and save to disk. I did purchase a good Canon flatbed scanner made for this, but the process is extremely time consuming.
I'm now thinking it would be much faster to copy the slides with some sort of setup and my DSLR.
I'm sure some of you do it this way. Could you please explain your setup, how you illuminate the slides and expose for them? A picture of your setup would be extremely helpful. Thanks.
It depends upon the quality of scan you need and want.
The best quality is achieved with a high-end, dedicated film scanner. For example, I use an older 4000 ppi Nikon film scanner that produces 130MB, 16 bit TIFF files at it's highest quality setting (which I've used to make 11x14 and larger prints). It does so one slide at a time (mounted slides) or with an accessory can handle a batch of up to 40 slides. It also can process film strips or entire uncut rolls of film without an accessory. But, each image scan takes some 10 minutes at the highest quality setting, so whenever I do a batch I set it up and let it run overnight.
There are more modern slide scanners designed to handle batches that do so a little more quickly, but they are rather pricey. Braun Multimag and Pacific Image Powerslide each can handle up to 50 mounted 35mm slides at a time and cost $1800 and $1000, respectively.
Plustek and Pacific Image make some one-at-a-time dedicated film scanners that cost between $300 and $500, with as much as 7500 ppi, that are quite capable.
Yes, it's possible to use a slide copier attachment with a DSLR instead. For decent quality, you need a good macro (or enlarger) lens and a steady light source. The quality won't be quite as good as a dedicated film scanner and the process will be rather slow... loading one mounted slide at a time, focusing on it and then snapping the duplicate image.
Either of those will usually be better than using a flatbed scanner. With flatbeds the resolution is lower and their optics just aren't as good. Also, with most flatbeds you're shooting the scan through a pane of glass, which further degrades image quality. Higher quality flatbeds might be okay to digitize medium and large format transparencies and negatives so long as you aren't planning to make huge prints from them. But 35mm and smaller film formats generally require too much magnification for most uses, which the flatbed simply can't handle well (an 8x12" print from a standard 35mm size image is about 13X magnification). Keep in mind that flatbeds are basically designed to make 1-to-1 copies... such as an 8.5x11" copy print from an 8.5x11" original. The dynamic range of flatbed scanners also typically are not as wide as dedicated film scanner DR.
There are also cheaper film scanners... under $200, some even $100 or less. In general, those aren't worth a damn unless you just need low quality scans for little more than 4x6" prints.
An alternative is to send your slides out to a service to have them scanned. The lower cost services such as ScanCafe (as low as 22 cents per slide) will make you 8 bit JPEGs around 1.5MP to 6MP that are probably enough to make 5x7" prints, but not very much more. Higher quality scanning services are available, can be done at 9000 or even higher ppi and 16 bit, but will cost a whole heck of a lot more per image.
You might consider buying a higher-end film scanner and using it to digitize your images. Once the images are digitized, unless you plan to continue shooting more slide film, there may be no reason to keep the scanner. So you might turn around and sell the scanner after you've completed the project. Doing that you may be able to recoup a lot of what you spent.
Any way you approach it, though, if you choose to make the scans yourself it's going to be a rather time-consuming project. You need to clean the slides, load them, focus on them, preview them and make any adjustments. Higher-end film scanners make this easier with faster image previews, autofocus and other automation, and provided software that can correct color tints, remove dust specks and scratches, is able to handle some of the trickier types of film (such as Kodachrome) and more. Just work at it steadily and a little at a time.