jcboy3 wrote:
Generally any brand except Nikon make acceptable bridge cameras.
Nikon gets the axe because they keep putting out models without RAW support.
I'm sure the "get it right in the camera" folks will be jumping up and down, but do you really have time to "get it right" while getting the white balance, focus, composition, and exposure right?
You need to set picture mode, sharpness, saturation, contrast, noise reduction, gradation; and pick your art filters or scene mode. I can set those initially, but then changing them on the fly, and evaluating whether they are correct; that's a difficult task.
I want the RAW file because I might not get the JPG settings right to start with, but primarily because I do adjustments in post processing that are not available in the camera. And I want to dig out dynamic range that's not available in JPG.
So I may use a JPG only camera in an emergency, but if I want the BEST pictures I want RAW.
So, in my opinion, the only way a JPG only camera can be the best is on the basis of size and availability. If I have it, I can use it. And lately, that's usually my iPhone. I have a drawer full of P&S cameras that I never use, just because they are JPG only and I can't be bothered.
As a corollary, THE BEST P&S camera will also shoot RAW. That's what I want for Christmas (Santa, are you listening? Pay attention!)
Generally any brand except Nikon make acceptable b... (
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Bridge does not mean P&S - any more than does DSLR. They all have Auto everything modes - and the best now have IA. BTW - quick in camera settings are down to practice - and knowing your camera - many don't! :-)