Don Fischer Loc: Antelope, Ore

I've done that and don't care for it! It sound's to me like a spacer would be the way to go. I've tried it with mat board spacer and didn't get it cut well enough. Take's a very sharp blade, dark mat board and a long straight edge to cut it. Something no one mentioned is I think I would also glue the photo to a piece of mat board. That should prevent the photo from wrinkling from humidity. I think I might re-try the spacer from mat board but black foam core is inexpensive and the spacer should be black to make any visible line disappear between the glass and the photo.

For me the worst part of the photo sticking to the glass would be you not only loose the photo but also the glass, voice of experience. Really good photo of a long gone favorite dog got ruined by sticking to glass! something I did to not worry about that, with film, was to seal the neg inside an envelope and tape it to the back of the foam core. With digitl, I've printed a second photo the same size and put it in the frame behind the backer and under the dust cover. You guy's have me thinking now!

Morning Star Loc: West coast, North of the 49th N.

I'd take the next step as well: scan the negative at high resolution, and keep it off-site.
Also the digital image that you had printed twice: Save it and keep it off-site.
Also: write on the dustcover that there is a negative there!

Heaven forbid, but with the negative or second print between backer and dust cover, a disaster would cause you to lose both!
Just this summer, we've seen a number of homes destroyed in fires, where the inhabitants felt perfectly safe, but in the end had only minutes to evacuate! For my own photos, I have one copy on the computer, one copy on a 1TB portable HD that I keep at home but away from the computer (quite often in the car), and a third copy on a larger (4TB HD that also contains back-ups of other "stuff" that is important to me - my 13-year old grandson who lives an hour's drive away, is the "keeper" of that one. Every time we go to visit there, that drive is updated.

William Royer Loc: Kansas

Why not size the print to leave about 3/8" between the ink of the print and the edges of the paper? In that way, one sees the entire image as intended but the frame does not intrude onto the ink -- thereby not cutting into the image itself, and reducing the risk of smearing the ink on the edges or the glass sticking to the ink.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Great answer!

Note to all — pigmented inkjet prints should never touch glass. They should be sprayed with UV protectant and mounted in an open frame, OR mounted as you indicated, under glass. In either case, spraying or mounting under glass should not happen until about 48 hours after printing. This allows the solvents in the inks to evaporate, or what Epson calls "outgas".

That's a little known bit of finesse that, unknown, has burned some of my impatient friends...

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Mold & mildew get in there and eat the print if they're trapped in close contact between glass and print surface. Leaving an air gap reduces or eliminates this sort of damage.

Any pollution of the glass surface or the print surface will eventually show up as Newton's Rings if the environment is allowed to become humid enough and then dries out. If bad enough, the print emulsion can crack and stick to the glass.

Pigmented inkjet prints should never touch glass. They should be dry mounted or cold mounted to archival board, then masked behind the frame edges with a thin mat, or matted, so there is about 1/16 inch between print surface and glass. This keeps the ink from sticking to the glass.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

You will... eventually.

If you ever need to reframe the image, it will likely be stuck to the glass and damaged if you try to remove it. There also can be damage done to the print even if left in the frame, from condensation and other environmental factors. Often the print adheres to the contact surface unevenly, which makes it look a mess.

So there should always be an air space between the glass and the print.

canon Lee

as an ex picture framer. You can use clear spacers under the frame rabbet. This will go very well using metal frames. You might consider dry mounting the print on archival board.

ejrmaine Loc: South Carolina

Terry, glad to see you go UHH.

For those that don't know Terry, he owns the SC sunrises. Be certain these matless prints will be landscapes and will show a glorious coastal sunrise.

Hunakai

You will.

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

First step is to affix to heavy 110# card stock using 3M General Purpose #45. lightly spray the card stock. Wad kitchen wax paper and semi flatten it. Tack the top center of the uncut photo
just a little to the card stock with the wax paper between. Spread center to side with fingers to get photo it started. Pull the wax paper out inch at a time and stoke toward wax paper and outward to debubble. continue ... wow not mounted. mark corners to size canvas. I punch a pinhole. with sizers cut at 45* roughly so you have a clear view both ends for your (walmart) moving edge paper cutter indexing.

Next the canvas with edge painted for decor or to match photo (I vignette black or white). Run a blue tape around the edge to protect from spray glue (I set up a gig/fixture). Put a foam plastic the thickness of the wood under the canvas to prevent sagging from finger pressure.

Do as in the first paragraph and mount the photo on the canvas. If edge of canvas unit is black I black the photo edge.

The pre stretched canvas is from Michel's crafts and 10/$20 and it is often on sale so the cost comes down to $1.25 each.

problem, then PM me.

cameranut64 Loc: Murrells Inlet, SC

You know me too well:>)
How did you know what I am framing:>) I am getting a 16x20 print mounted on a poster board and I want to have the entire scene ( sunrise) to fill my pallet wood 16x20 frame. The hogs have been a big help!

Terry

carl hervol Loc: jacksonville florida

I have framed prints that are 100 years old and there fine.

orvisk

You use a spacer; they are available manufactured and a cross section looks like the letter U placed next to the letter letter U turned upside down so they share a common inside edge. one part of the U bumps over the glass or plexi and the other part of the U bumps over the edge of the photo and its mount thus making a gap. they come in strips of clear plastic and can be ordered online or bought in lengths from framing shops. follow the link below.
https://www.google.com/search?q=framing+spacers&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CDYQsARqFQoTCLyf6JLvwMgCFYk2PgodeZwDrQ&biw=1226&bih=666
you can also make your own out of 1/4 inch foan board. Cut 1/4X1/4 strips and spray them solid black on all sides and gently glue them into the rabbit area of the frame.
Have Fun! many peopple make a big miistake having the photo against the glass!!

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

I agree on the use of spacers, but painting them might not be very archival.

GDRoth Loc: Southeast Michigan USA

Thanks for the detailed instructions............I'll give it a try on a small print and see how I do........
Dave