Bryan Peterson's new book has me in the market for some GND filters to use with my D800 and 16-35 lens on landscapes. I see prices vary. Two questions to start:
1. Hard or soft?
2. Experience with different makes.
Colin looks to have most reasonable starter set.
I used grad filters for almost 15 years and have found the best quality filters are made by Singh-Ray. The key to a good grad filter is finding one that is truly neutral. The Cokin's always had a magenta color cast to them. Lee Filters also have a great reputation.
Here's a thought, though - Skip the grads altogether and blend multiple images together in Lightroom or Photoshop to extend your dynamic range. I don't even carry grads anymore since I learned how to use this technique. The results are significantly better and the process allows you much more control over the final result.
Hope this is helpful. Good luck to you!
bretedge wrote:
I used grad filters for almost 15 years and have found the best quality filters are made by Singh-Ray. The key to a good grad filter is finding one that is truly neutral. The Cokin's always had a magenta color cast to them. Lee Filters also have a great reputation.
Here's a thought, though - Skip the grads altogether and blend multiple images together in Lightroom or Photoshop to extend your dynamic range. I don't even carry grads anymore since I learned how to use this technique. The results are significantly better and the process allows you much more control over the final result.
Hope this is helpful. Good luck to you!
I used grad filters for almost 15 years and have f... (
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Thanks for your inputs.
I've been using the post processing filter in Lightroom on RAW images. It does much of what I see Peterson achieving with physical filters. But I got the idea the physical filters are better. Maybe not so much with the dynamic range of today's cameras and Lightroom?
MtnMan wrote:
Thanks for your inputs.
I've been using the post processing filter in Lightroom on RAW images. It does much of what I see Peterson achieving with physical filters. But I got the idea the physical filters are better. Maybe not so much with the dynamic range of today's cameras and Lightroom?
Your D800 has around 14 stops of dynamic range, about the same as the Sony A7II that just replaced all my Canon gear. I rarely have to do any kind of digital blending because of the incredible dynamic range and clean shadows of the Sony sensor. That said, there are certain situations, such as shooting into the sun, that are higher in dynamic range than even the best sensors are able to record. In these instances, I prefer digital blending over physical GND's.
The grad filter in Lightroom is pretty incredible and will often be all you need. But, as in the aforementioned scenario, you'll have to combine multiple images at different exposures to create a final image that maintains shadow and highlight detail. The newest version of Lightroom allows you to do this within Lightroom, but you can also do it in Photoshop. Ultimately, you're creating an HDR image - but it doesn't have to look garish like so many HDR's that are poorly processed.
Does this make sense?
bretedge wrote:
Your D800 has around 14 stops of dynamic range, about the same as the Sony A7II that just replaced all my Canon gear. I rarely have to do any kind of digital blending because of the incredible dynamic range and clean shadows of the Sony sensor. That said, there are certain situations, such as shooting into the sun, that are higher in dynamic range than even the best sensors are able to record. In these instances, I prefer digital blending over physical GND's.
The grad filter in Lightroom is pretty incredible and will often be all you need. But, as in the aforementioned scenario, you'll have to combine multiple images at different exposures to create a final image that maintains shadow and highlight detail. The newest version of Lightroom allows you to do this within Lightroom, but you can also do it in Photoshop. Ultimately, you're creating an HDR image - but it doesn't have to look garish like so many HDR's that are poorly processed.
Does this make sense?
Your D800 has around 14 stops of dynamic range, ab... (
show quote)
Yes, thank you.
I have Lightroom 6 which I know does this. I haven't tried that feature yet. Maybe I need to do some of that before spending a bunch of money and having more stuff to fuss with.
I'll be sure to take some bracketed exposures on the trip I leave for tomorrow and give it a try when I get back.
MtnMan wrote:
Yes, thank you.
I have Lightroom 6 which I know does this. I haven't tried that feature yet. Maybe I need to do some of that before spending a bunch of money and having more stuff to fuss with.
I'll be sure to take some bracketed exposures on the trip I leave for tomorrow and give it a try when I get back.
Definitely give it a shot. I've been surprised at how well LR's HDR feature works. Honestly, I didn't have high hopes for it but the results I'm getting are very, very good.
Good luck with it all!
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Back in (only) film transparancy days, Cokin Grad-Greys had the reputation of giving a colour caste...either magenta, or cyan. Have they improved ?? If pushed, I use my Lee filters both hard and soft. High DR and Photoshop takes care of 90% of problems on a single exposure.
For landscape I use soft.
I use Lee Filters.
http://www.leefilters.com/index.php/cameraWhen using square filter systems with wide angle lenses, ensure the filter holder is suitable, to avoid unnecessary vignetting.
Leicaflex wrote:
For landscape I use soft.
I use Lee Filters.
http://www.leefilters.com/index.php/cameraWhen using square filter systems with wide angle lenses, ensure the filter holder is suitable, to avoid unnecessary vignetting.
What do I look for in the holder?
Leicaflex wrote:
For landscape I use soft.
I use Lee Filters.
http://www.leefilters.com/index.php/cameraWhen using square filter systems with wide angle lenses, ensure the filter holder is suitable, to avoid unnecessary vignetting.
What do I look for in the holder?
FYI:
Should you see an ad that says "for Cokin", that makes it a nock-off of the genuine Cokin.
MtnMan wrote:
What do I look for in the holder?
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Make sure you get the lens attachment ring for wide-angle lenses. They are thinner than the standard ring, and place the filter holder closer to the lens, instead of protruding forward away from the lens. Obviously,they cost more than the standard ring, because they know people will want them (eventually),,,When they realise what is causing those 'Dark corners' in their pictures.
MtnMan wrote:
Bryan Peterson's new book has me in the market for some GND filters to use with my D800 and 16-35 lens on landscapes. I see prices vary. Two questions to start:
1. Hard or soft?
2. Experience with different makes.
Colin looks to have most reasonable starter set.
You should get good quality hard and soft ND's. The hard are ideal for sunrise and sunsets with a clear horizon. The 10 stopper is great for long exposures. Lee makes a clip on and clip off system that I find superior to screw on types.
Some have indicated that they can get the same long exposure effect with PS by blending. That works for long exposure and use of soft ND's. I prefer to get it right in camera. You could do both.
Mark7829 wrote:
You should get good quality hard and soft ND's. The hard are ideal for sunrise and sunsets with a clear horizon. The 10 stopper is great for long exposures. Lee makes a clip on and clip off system that I find superior to screw on types.
Some have indicated that they can get the same long exposure effect with PS by blending. That works for long exposure and use of soft ND's. I prefer to get it right in camera. You could do both.
The 10 stopper is an ND, not a GND. And the PS blending suggestion had nothing to do with long exposures, it's about exposing for the entire tonal range. Doesn't matter how long or short the exposure is. Here's one I just did by PS blending. If I had used a GND filter I would have darkened the mountains too, and I didn't want to do that.
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