DWU2 wrote:
Not completely sure I understand Mark's comment here. The rule of thumb, when shooting handheld, is to set a shutter speed at least as fast as 1/the focal length being used, adjusted by the crop factor. So, if you're shooting at 300 mm on a Nikon APS-C body (which has a crop factor of 1.5), the minimum shutter speed should be 1/(300 x 1.5) = 1/450.
Nah, I don't see that anywhere. If I am shooting a Nikon APS-C with a 300 mm lens - it is a 300 mm lens. There is no lens out there labeled 300/450. Show me one? A full fame camera will have the same rules as a crop sensor. You you are seeing this differently, you are just making things up. The equivalent view has nothing to do with how you shoot. Stability is important for all cameras and lenses.
hosh wrote:
Thank you. I'll try a monopod before I buy anything.
You'll notice that a monopod is still not good enough for long exposures. I've looked carefully at long exposures that I've done with a monopod and although it eliminated vertical motion you still get motion blur from side to side motion. It's not possible to hold the monopod steady enough.
If you get a carbon fiber tripod with a magnesium head you'll have a really lightweight setup.
Peterff
Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.
Mark7829 wrote:
Nah, I don't see that anywhere. If I am shooting a Nikon APS-C with a 300 mm lens - it is a 300 mm lens. There is no lens out there labeled 300/450. Show me one? A full fame camera will have the same rules as a crop sensor. You you are seeing this differently, you are just making things up. The equivalent view has nothing to do with how you shoot. Stability is important for all cameras and lenses.
There is a difference if you research it, and there has been much discussion on the forum. It isn't hugely important unless anyone wants to make a debate about it, but it relates to the percentage of movement in relation to the size of sensor.
Essentially for any given amount of movement or blur, the percentage of the fame it affects is bigger on a smaller sensor, so 3% blur on a full frame becomes something like 5% blur on a crop camera, and is therefore more visible.
So for a 300mm lens on a Nikon crop camera the 1/450 is the equivalent and better advice. You may hold any opinion that you wish to of course, but that does not necessarily make your perspective a fact just because you don't see the point, nor does it mean that others are making anything up.
Peterff wrote:
There is a difference if you research it, and there has been much discussion on the forum. It isn't hugely important unless anyone wants to make a debate about it, but it relates to the percentage of movement in relation to the size of sensor.
Essentially for any given amount of movement or blur, the percentage of the fame it affects is bigger on a smaller sensor, so 3% blur on a full frame becomes something like 5% blur on a crop camera, and is therefore more visible.
So for a 300mm lens on a Nikon crop camera the 1/450 is the equivalent and better advice. You may hold any opinion that you wish to of course, but that does not necessarily make your perspective a fact just because you don't see the point, nor does it mean that others are making anything up.
There is a difference if you research it, and ther... (
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I remember reading that in an issue of Popular Photography magazine. They didn't explain why but they did say that the rule should be multiplied by the crop factor. For a 300mm lens on a 1.5x crop factor camera the slowest shutter should be 1/450 sec.
Peterff wrote:
There is a difference if you research it, and there has been much discussion on the forum. It isn't hugely important unless anyone wants to make a debate about it, but it relates to the percentage of movement in relation to the size of sensor.
Essentially for any given amount of movement or blur, the percentage of the fame it affects is bigger on a smaller sensor, so 3% blur on a full frame becomes something like 5% blur on a crop camera, and is therefore more visible.
So for a 300mm lens on a Nikon crop camera the 1/450 is the equivalent and better advice. You may hold any opinion that you wish to of course, but that does not necessarily make your perspective a fact just because you don't see the point, nor does it mean that others are making anything up.
There is a difference if you research it, and ther... (
show quote)
I am with Mark on this ! I would like to see some references for this "theory" - 300mm is 300mm and blur is blur no matter what size the sensor is ....
CO wrote:
I remember reading that in an issue of Popular Photography magazine. They didn't explain why
I have seen this mentioned several times around - with no GOOD explanations .......
get a ball head with a detachable plate (the thing that goes on the bottom of the camera--with good tripods you can buy multiple plates to use on your cameras). The detachable plate makes breaking down the tripod and moving faster.
Also make sure that the ball head and plate can hold your camera AND heaviest lens.
hosh wrote:
This is my first question. I am a fairly serious hobby photographer. Fairly serious meaning I love it and do it fairly frequently. Hobby meaning I'm pretty much the only one who ever looks at my pictures except sometimes my family. Primarily I like to shoot nature and wildlife and candid shots of people. I prefer close-ups and playing with depth of field. I recently used a tripod for the first time to try slow shutter speed on a waterfall. I liked the effect but I hated using a tripod. It felt so stiff and I felt I lost my ability to easily frame the shots and move around the way I normally like to. I'm assuming this would improve if I practiced with it a lot but I was wondering if there are others that just do not like tripods and stick with handheld or is it really a skill I should practice and learn if I want to improve my skills? If, so. what features should I look for in a good tripod?
Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts.
This is my first question. I am a fairly serious ... (
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So you use the shotgun approach. Shoot 100 images and one has to be good? Slow down, define your image in your head before you even look thru your viewfinder. What time of day is best, from what angle, with what lens. Visualize/ Then think about your DOF, point of focus, shutter speed and f stop. Then go look for the best location and angle of view. Assume you can only make one exposure and it needs your expertise and creativity. Then when you have made that exposure and it works for you you'll begin to learn what photography is really about. It is a discipline.
DWU2 wrote:
adjusted by the crop factor. .
Sooo, where does this idea come from ??
Peterff
Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.
imagemeister wrote:
I am with Mark on this ! I would like to see some references for this "theory" - 300mm is 300mm and blur is blur no matter what size the sensor is ....
I'm trying to locate the article that was referenced, which included some mathematical formulae for calculating blur which I replicated in Excel for curiosity's sake. I haven't found it yet.
I agree that a 300mm lens is a 300mm lens, but most people here on the Hog seem to agree that the field of view is not the same on a full frame sensor as it is on a sensor of a different size, larger, or smaller. In which case, any blur, regardless of the cause will be captured differently. In the case of motion blur, a fixed amount of movement will take up a different percentage of the image depending upon the size of the sensor, and therefore may require some different compensation to mitigate the effect.
As I said, it doesn't matter that much unless somebody wants to prove that they are right. If so, then evidence rather than opinion will matter.
This is the part I have a problem with:
Peterff wrote:
In which case, any blur, regardless of the cause will be captured differently. In the case of motion blur, a fixed amount of movement will take up a different percentage of the image depending upon the size of the sensor, and therefore may require some different compensation to mitigate the effect.
and this - "As I said, it doesn't matter that much unless somebody wants to prove that they are right. If so, then evidence rather than opinion will matter." - is what I agree with !
Peterff
Loc: O'er The Hills and Far Away, in Themyscira.
imagemeister wrote:
This is the part I have a problem with:
and this - "As I said, it doesn't matter that much unless somebody wants to prove that they are right. If so, then evidence rather than opinion will matter." - is what I agree with !
If I can find the article, I will post a link. Perhaps others may find something. Personally I don't care that much, but I find it interesting....
jrushphoto wrote:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2408207,00.asp
Mentions it - but does not explain why .....
Peterff wrote:
If I can find the article, I will post a link. Perhaps others may find something. Personally I don't care that much, but I find it interesting....
I think this may have something to do with the added magnification of APS over full frame for a given print size - similar to the DOF theory of differing DOF's with the exact same lens and f-stop between APS and FF. - I personally do not completely subscribe to this theory - but it is widely promulgated
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