JoBear Loc: Pacific Northwest

Recently purchased the Tiffen Variable 82mm thread ND filter ($179 on Amazon) and am not enamored of the results - specifically the vignetting and of course the large dreaded X when aperture is closed down.

My question is - is the vignetting and the X a result of the filter being circular? Do the Lee brand 4x4 Big and Little Stopper filters suffer the same darkness? Or does the fact that they are square and overlaps the circular lens opening avoid this. I was shooting a 6D and a 24-70mm Tamron lens.

Any Lee users out there have this issue. Wondering whether I should just return it and go to the Lee system?
Thanks,
John

f8lee Loc: New Mexico

The "dreaded X" to which you refer is called by the folks at Singh-Ray the "Maltese Cross" - it happened to me with their vari-ND filter on my Fuji X-T1 though I had no issues with my various Nikon DSLRs (D200, D700, D600) over the years. Apparently it's specific to the size of the photo sites and has to do with constructive/destructive interference in those cases. This is because a variable ND filter is essentially two stacked (circular) polarizing filters which, when at 90 degree angles to each other, cut out almost alight (theoretically it would be all the light, but in practice it becomes 8 or 9 stops worth).

As I understand it, the Lee filters are not variable at all - they are pure ND filters (as are the standard ND filters from other filter manufacturers. So there should be no problem with the Lee filter - I have been using a number of (non-variable) ND filters without issue on the Fuji since there is no polarizing filtration involved with those - they are essentially just "really dark sunglasses".

shazzad

That's great... :)

JoBear Loc: Pacific Northwest

Thanks Bob. I do realize that the Lee Big (10stops) and Little (6stops) aren't variable. Just hoping they don't throw a "Maltese Cross" on things - think that being 6 and 10 stops they might fill my needs, mostly waterfall/ocean/river shooting.
Appreciate your comments!
John

Big Stopper Loc: London

JoBear, I use both the Big Stopper and Little Stopper and have had no issues. The only thing I find is that the Big Stopper leaves a blue colour cast but that is easily rectified in Lightroom.

JoBear Loc: Pacific Northwest

Thank you Luggerbugs, Yes as I understand it most of these filters have some color cast and PP can fix that. Do you by chance use a Lee polariser or do the Big and Little double as that-being that basically they are two Polarisers attached to each other?
J

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

I use B+W NDs, with no adverse results. The "X-factor" is a known issue with cross-polarization. If you already have the Lee system, I'd stick with it.

JoBear Loc: Pacific Northwest

Thanks for comment Allen.
J

big-guy Loc: Peterborough Ontario Canada

On a 10 stop grad ND filter the dreaded X comes at the extreme amount of ND (10 stop) setting. If you keep it just below max this doesn't seem to be a problem. In theory it would be nice to have a full 10 stop difference but in almost all cases you can survive with a 9.5 stop difference. To find out your filters limits, set your aperture to f22 or greater. Then shoot a neutral colored wall in aperture priority mode. Allow the shutter to change automatically. Find your base exposure (ND-1) then turn the dial for each marked stop to get a progression of ND-2, ND-3 etc. all the way to ND-10. A quality grad ND filter should allow you to get to 9 or 9.5 stops. A crazy cop once said, "A man's got to know his limitations" the same applies to your filters.

Big Stopper Loc: London

JoBear, no I don't have the Lee polariser though I have been very close to buying one. The cost is very high and putting me off and I do have a Hoya polariser which is excellent. The only downside to the Hoya polariser is that it came apart when I was using it with the Lee system and the filter holder with filters fell off - fortunately into a rock pool and it missed the rocks so the Lee filters were fine. Amazon very kindly replaced the polariser so no harm was done.

Not sure what you mean in the last part of your post.

JoBear Loc: Pacific Northwest

Sorry, juggling too many thoughts at once, I was actually thinking of the Tiffen Variable, my understanding is that it basically is two polarizing filters attached together and this is what gives the variety of "stops" as you twist it. I assume if that is what is used then not sure you need a polarizer in addition, perhaps just use the Tiffen set at minimum end of scale.
Thanks for commenting - yeah that Lee Polarizer at 300 bucks + is steep.
J