I was the OP for the thread "Is there one ideal lens for all around use". I got lots of great suggestions, including the following
ddonlewis wrote:
Jerry,
As someone has already mentioned there is no perfect lens. There is not a lens that has a super zoom range, fast, and tack sharp. So I will give you several options?
1) You have the 50MM F1.8 so you could add the 35MM F1.8 and 85MM F1.8. All 3 of these lenses are very fast, tack sharp and relatively inexpensive. You can buy the 35MM new for $195 and the 85MM from Keh or Ebay for $300 used.
2) The 24-70MM F2.8 has been mentioned but $1,900 is ridiculous and it weighs a ton.
3) You could buy the old Nikon 35-70 F2.8 and 80-200MM F2.8 used for about $600. They are both fast and very sharp.
You'll have to decide. I have several prime lenses, but I personally am a zoom guy so I would go with option 3. This would also give you some lenses if you move to a full frame camera.
Jerry, br As someone has already mentioned t... (
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So, I picked door number three, and am now awaiting my Ebay sourced $220 35-70 f2.8 lens, and am on an active hunt for a used 80-200 f2.8 D (new) lens to go with it. I'm letting go my reluctance to change lenses on the fly (I hope).
So, since these lenses are reported to be tack sharp, will putting a UV filter on them (for the lens protective value primarily) reduce the IQ I'm buying them for. I never gave it a thought when I was shooting through my 18-300 f3.5-5.6, but these new lenses are a big step up in quality for me. Any thoughts?
boberic
Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander
jerrypoller wrote:
I was the OP for the thread "Is there one ideal lens for all around use". I got lots of great suggestions, including the following
So, I picked door number three, and am now awaiting my Ebay sourced $220 35-70 f2.8 lens, and am on an active hunt for a used 80-200 f2.8 D (new) lens to go with it. I'm letting go my reluctance to change lenses on the fly (I hope).
So, since these lenses are reported to be tack sharp, will putting a UV filter on them (for the lens protective value primarily) reduce the IQ I'm buying them for. I never gave it a thought when I was shooting through my 18-300 f3.5-5.6, but these new lenses are a big step up in quality for me. Any thoughts?
I was the OP for the thread "Is there one ide... (
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If you want to put a protective filter on, use a clear glass filter, and don't skimp on the $ Hoya or B+H. Are the best
You've asked a question akin to whether Nikon is better than Canon ... The Hoya or B&H brands have been analyzed to say no impact. And also agreed: use clear rather than UV if you never plan to use these lenses on a film camera.
boberic wrote:
If you want to put a protective filter on, use a clear glass filter, and don't skimp on the $ Hoya or B+H. Are the best
Don't you mean B+W filters?
I tend to believe that any additional glass causes loss so lens protection for me is a lens hood. Got rid of my "protective" filters a while back and saw a gain in IQ right away.
Granted I probably had cheaper filters.
CHG_CANON wrote:
You've asked a question akin to whether Nikon is better than Canon ... The Hoya or B&H brands have been analyzed to say no impact. And also agreed: use clear rather than UV if you never plan to use these lenses on a film camera.
Thanks - hadn't thought of that.
Dngallagher wrote:
Don't you mean B+W filters?
I tend to believe that any additional glass causes loss so lens protection for me is a lens hood. Got rid of my "protective" filters a while back and saw a gain in IQ right away.
Granted I probably had cheaper filters.
This is exactly what I'm concerned about. But I also tend to be a belt and suspenders guy. Would a quality "clear" filter merely protect the lens glass, or would, even the good ones, tend to degrade IQ (the purpose for upgrading to these f2.8 zooms). Anyone else care to weigh in?
New thought after seeing a webinar - if you are shooting someone welding closeup use a filter, otherwise use a lens hood.
jerrypoller wrote:
So, since these lenses are reported to be tack sharp, will putting a UV filter on them (for the lens protective value primarily) reduce the IQ I'm buying them for. I never gave it a thought when I was shooting through my 18-300 f3.5-5.6, but these new lenses are a big step up in quality for me. Any thoughts?
In most situations, the difference between filter and no filter will be so minimal, you'd need to look at the image on the pixel level to tell the difference. But there are some situations (for example, when a bright light source is present at the edge of the frame) where there may be a more significant difference between filter and no filter. I suppose an exceptionally dirty filter could make a difference also.
Perhaps the truly best way to come to your own conclusion on the matter is to do your own comparison tests, under various conditions. Certainly better than going by what a salesperson tells you what you need to get!
G Brown
Loc: Sunny Bognor Regis West Sussex UK
RE: UV filter.
The only advice I have ever been given was the 'Protective' attributes of using them to break rather than the actual lens and that they stop degradation of the lens coating. At £16 a pop for a UV a plastic lens cover sounds like a better option and more potential protection.
UV filter shot through glass causes double vision in bright object/light. It will stack a CP filter far enough forward to cause artifact in the corners of some lenses.
I bought in to the advice as a novice - I still use kit lenses and figure that, by now, they don't owe me anything so no longer fit them. But I do fit a lens cover cause they came with one!
Hope this adds to your research
I had a UV filter on one of my lenses and it made it grainy so I removed it and it is much better.
As far as keeping your glass safe, use a hood, and if you are not shooting put the lens cap on.
I have never dropped any of my lenses, none of them have any scratches, and I never have a filter on. The only one I don't use a hood on is my macro but that's only because it blocks out light.
mcveed
Loc: Kelowna, British Columbia (between trips)
Never used a "protective" filter, scratched, broken or dropped a lens in 50 years of photography. On the other hand I use a lens cap when I'm not shooting and a lens hood when I am. I figure if I can't get the lens cap off before the subject flees then it wasn't meant to be.
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
I have had a filter on all my lenses for over 40 years. Did wedding photography for 30 years. I have dropped lenses several times over the years and the filter saved three of those lenses from serious damage, filter cracked, but not the lens. Good, cheap, insurance. Sure, many will say you see a drop in image quality. But all of my photo contest winners were taken with lenses with filters on. I have not noticed any drop in IQ for using a filter. But then again, I concentrate more on the final result than on lens chart tests. It all comes down to what you are comfortable with. The choice is yours.
billnikon wrote:
I have had a filter on all my lenses for over 40 years. Did wedding photography for 30 years. I have dropped lenses several times over the years and the filter saved three of those lenses from serious damage, filter cracked, but not the lens. Good, cheap, insurance. Sure, many will say you see a drop in image quality. But all of my photo contest winners were taken with lenses with filters on. I have not noticed any drop in IQ for using a filter. But then again, I concentrate more on the final result than on lens chart tests. It all comes down to what you are comfortable with. The choice is yours.
I have had a filter on all my lenses for over 40 y... (
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Exactly, it is a personal choice, I could see the loss of IQ, and once the filters were off the IQ went up, so filters be gone.
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