lporrel Loc: California

I still don't understand why ESP would have totally blown out the sky.

Patw28 Loc: PORT JERVIS, NY

It was just a tease, John. I was born in 1928 and occasionally accuse my camera of changing my settings on its own.
I hope you were not involved in aerial reconnaissance. Our 8th AF accounted for some 80% of our intelligence in the ETO. We paid a high price for it.

CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.

My Ex father-in-law flew a P-38 Photo Recon over Italy in WWII.
Craig

Cappy Loc: Wildwood, NJ

One is PP the other isn't. You are comparing apples to oranges.

CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.

Photo #1
There is so much burnout in the sky and buildings.
I don't believe there is any process that can bring it back??? I tried to no avail.
Craig

Jackdoor Loc: Huddersfield, Yorkshire.

EXIF data says that the in-camera contrast is set to 'High'- I'd suggest setting it to'0'. That might explain why the dynamic range seems so limited. PDF manual pages 52-53, or press buttons as follows:
MENU; RtArrow once; DownArrow twice; RtArrow 3 times. Then up/down arrow to move contrast to 0, then 'OK' 3 times, then MENU. Phew. It's a lot easier to do than to write!
Then you can try again, playing with exposure compensation.
Good luck!

OonlyBonly

Those LG G-series phones are pretty neat, aren't they?
:thumbup:

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

There may be more information the in sky data than is showing up. PP will show if there is more data. I would use PhotoShop or other software that is more powerful than the Olympus software.
If this was shot in i-auto, the software will do its best in this situation without allowing you an override option. If the camera is wrong in what it chooses, you have no recourse. I feel it is better to set it to program which should set up one dial for overriding the camera picked setting. The Creative Scene settings are helpful but can take time to get to if not used often. Also, you do not indicate whether or not you have the electronic viewfinder. From the angle you show in your pictures, it is my guess that sunlight may have been shining on the rear screen. Rear screens with sunlight on them makes it very difficult to determine whether the camera has picked the "right" setting. Two options to avoid this are an Olympus electronic viewfinder or a hood for the rear screen. Let us know how your efforts turn out in PP.

Tomcat5133 Loc: Gladwyne PA

In plain talk their are times when the exposure light
to dark is a compromise of whatever you decide.
Blown out light areas sky etc are a big decision as to
what you wan't to achieve in dynamic range. Just point
your camera at half the window in your house and half
in a dimly lighted room. Change the aperture or ISO to see the effect of more detail outside and less inside and what you like. I prefer darker inside where you can see enough and more detail
in the blown out area. it looks more real close to what the eye see's.
Good luck.

romanticf16 Loc: Commerce Twp, MI

If the Olympus capture was in RAW it should be quite easy to import the image into Lightroom or PS Elements and adjust the tonal range of the highlight, mid and low levels to compensate for the backlit situation. If the capture was in jpeg it'll be more difficult, as the data needed to recover in the highlight area is blown away and not saved in the jpeg conversion from the original sensor capture.