Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

Better!
Why did you select incrementally changing lens focus vs incrementally moving camera-&-lens form subject front surface towards back?
I do not focus-stack, so I am interested as to why you prefer one technique over the other.

erandolph Loc: La Pine, Oregon USA

I'm just learning and don't have a reliable way to move either the camera or subject in small increments without messing up the composition.
I believe that moving the camera or subject would allow me to leave the lens set at 1:1 for all the images. That seems like a better way to go.

There must be a tripod head that would allow me to move the camera. I'll do some looking.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

This thread may be of interest to you:
FAQ: What is Focus Stacking and What is Involved?
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-155113-1.html

Here is a typical set-up of "focus rails": http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-32754-5.html#2718177
On this forum, there are several similar set-ups used by different macro focus-stackers.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

What you want to get is a Macro Focusing Rail, which allows the user to move the camera incrementally toward the object. In my opinion, this is really really important. I know Martin (fstop22) does a wonderful job doing hand-held stacks. I'm either too shaky or I need to knock off with the caffeine, so I've done a few--but I'm no expert. I have, however, done a number of tripod stacks: My technique is as follows: Camera+lens on tripod with focusing rail. Shutter delay at 2 sec, mirror up, cable release attached. I focus on the foremost part of the image, check exposure (sometimes taking a test shot & checking the histogram, then adjust if needed). I then expose, make incremental adjustment, expose, make incremental adjustment. I continue until I am at the furthermost part of the image than I want "in focus". If I am doing multiple sets, I take a hand shot to mark my spot. This helps me identify the beginning and ending points. My constant aperture is F/8. This is because for my specific lens, Nikkor 105G, this is the "sweet spot" as identified by several independent testers; f/5.6 is a close second. This helps minimize diffraction. I use Helicon Focus for stacking-- but my choice was based on the availability of stacking raw and Mac compatibility. At the time I began, this "requirement" eliminated the others. You can check my prior posts for stacking examples. I use a Velbon Macro Slider.

Oh and VR is always off & obviously lens is set to MF. Not checking all of these details can waste time.

erandolph Loc: La Pine, Oregon USA

Thanks for all the info. I appreciate it.

Randy