Interior and Architecture - lenses
Oct 16, 2014 14:00:12 #
melismus wrote:
Canon register distance shorter than Nikon. No such conversion could focus infinity.
Correct me if I'm wrong but Canon and Nikon use a different sensor focal plane distance to the lens and Nikon won't fully work on a Canon?
Oct 16, 2014 14:21:47 #
andywilk38 wrote:
I shoot quite a number of interiors using a Nikon ... (show quote)
For interior shots, you are better off with 14mm than 24mm even if you do crop off some of the photo. The 14mm does more than make things wide, it distorts the depth between objects. In other words, the distortion is on all planes, not just the width. It completely changes the spatial relation of the interior and makes it look much bigger than it is in all directions.
Oct 16, 2014 15:22:09 #
sirlensalot
Loc: Arizona
Gene51 wrote:
Actually, for pros, the TS lenses are the go to le... (show quote)
Agree that the TS is the best. RE is pretty competitive and is more "down & dirty." Most jobs are in and out in 45 minutes or less. The exceptions of course are twilight shoots which pay much more, but unless you already own a TS lens, I doubt RE is going to give you enough reason to buy a TS lens.
APS-C users rely on the 10-22 range. FF use ideally the 14-24, 16-35, and 17-40 range. I don't deal with pano's, but I seem to be in the minority lately.lol
Oct 16, 2014 15:30:25 #
sirlensalot wrote:
Agree that the TS is the best. RE is pretty competitive and is more "down & dirty." Most jobs are in and out in 45 minutes or less. The exceptions of course are twilight shoots which pay much more, but unless you already own a TS lens, I doubt RE is going to give you enough reason to buy a TS lens.
APS-C users rely on the 10-22 range. FF use ideally the 14-24, 16-35, and 17-40 range. I don't deal with pano's, but I seem to be in the minority lately.lol
APS-C users rely on the 10-22 range. FF use ideally the 14-24, 16-35, and 17-40 range. I don't deal with pano's, but I seem to be in the minority lately.lol
You should try it!
Oct 16, 2014 15:37:52 #
sirlensalot
Loc: Arizona
Gene51 wrote:
You should try it!
If a client asks, I will. We are just starting our busy season for RE out here, so it may be a good option for me. We shall see.
Oct 16, 2014 15:40:44 #
sirlensalot wrote:
If a client asks, I will. We are just starting our busy season for RE out here, so it may be a good option for me. We shall see.
You can use an ultrawide for panos, but be sure your camera is in portrait orientation to take full advantage of the greatly increased vertical field of view. I get my best work with a 24mm lens, which provides a nice FOV and still not too much perspective distortion.
Oct 16, 2014 15:44:41 #
andywilk38 wrote:
I shoot quite a number of interiors using a Nikon ... (show quote)
Andywilk, I've been an architectural photographer since 1968 and there are many things I have forgotten and many thing I just never knew, but I do have an opinion on your question and I'm answering it from experience. When I was using film SLR cameras, I did have and use Nikon's PC lenses, and was one proud and happy camper. But with DSLR's I do not see the need nor recommend the use of a PC or TS lens. Yes, you have added control over depth of field, but you really rarely are confronted with the situation of needing more DoF. Photo Shop has made it so easy, simple and fast to correct perspective and distortion that I see no need to have those specialized lenses. I use a 14mm and a 16-35mm for my interiors and have never had a problem nor had any complaint. Yes, I started and continued until recently to use 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 view cameras ... but can now come near to accomplishing the same results with a DSLR (full sensor), the lenses I mentioned and Photo Shop as I had in the past. I hope I haven't stepped on anyone feet as this is only my opinion and in photography there is always more than one solution. Best, J. Goffe
Oct 16, 2014 17:24:45 #
"the f/stops here"
Treading on toes? - absolutely not. Well, not mine, anyway!
It's always great to have other people's experiences and opinions.
Depending on the commission and the ultimate end use of the photo, some suggestions are game changers, while others are perhaps more marginal. For me, I seem to have got away with using 14-24 for both RE and AP, but sometimes at a cost of having too much cropped away, as well as the pp work that has to be done. When you're on a fast turnaround, some of the dipping in and out of programmes (depending on what software one uses) can become tediously slow as the file writes back to the host programme.
Just a note on pp cropping when correcting for distortion......I'm never quite sure what I'm going to be left with, so might end up having to enlarge the crop to either preserve important detail, or to make a better composition, which then requires some rather tortuous backfilling with the clone stamp etc. Thankfully I'm quite skilled at that, but it's far from ideal! At least in the right circumstances (i.e. not shooting in the broom cupboard) with a PC-E lens, it's WYSIWYG :)
I guess there are different trade-offs for different people for different purposes and different budgets....but it's all informative.
BTW, I use DxO ViewPoint 2, but in some instances have found that using Volume Deformation actually bends lines that were previously straight! I have never used PS6 for this kind of corrective work.
Treading on toes? - absolutely not. Well, not mine, anyway!
It's always great to have other people's experiences and opinions.
Depending on the commission and the ultimate end use of the photo, some suggestions are game changers, while others are perhaps more marginal. For me, I seem to have got away with using 14-24 for both RE and AP, but sometimes at a cost of having too much cropped away, as well as the pp work that has to be done. When you're on a fast turnaround, some of the dipping in and out of programmes (depending on what software one uses) can become tediously slow as the file writes back to the host programme.
Just a note on pp cropping when correcting for distortion......I'm never quite sure what I'm going to be left with, so might end up having to enlarge the crop to either preserve important detail, or to make a better composition, which then requires some rather tortuous backfilling with the clone stamp etc. Thankfully I'm quite skilled at that, but it's far from ideal! At least in the right circumstances (i.e. not shooting in the broom cupboard) with a PC-E lens, it's WYSIWYG :)
I guess there are different trade-offs for different people for different purposes and different budgets....but it's all informative.
BTW, I use DxO ViewPoint 2, but in some instances have found that using Volume Deformation actually bends lines that were previously straight! I have never used PS6 for this kind of corrective work.
Oct 16, 2014 18:14:55 #
sirlensalot
Loc: Arizona
Gene51 wrote:
You can use an ultrawide for panos, but be sure your camera is in portrait orientation to take full advantage of the greatly increased vertical field of view. I get my best work with a 24mm lens, which provides a nice FOV and still not too much perspective distortion.
Thanks for the information.
Oct 16, 2014 18:17:16 #
sirlensalot wrote:
Thanks for the information.
You're most welcome.
Oct 16, 2014 18:17:44 #
CraigFair wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong but Canon and Nikon use a different sensor focal plane distance to the lens and Nikon won't fully work on a Canon?
Correct, but the opposite will work fine.
Oct 16, 2014 18:22:08 #
andywilk38 wrote:
"the f/stops here" br Treading on toes? ... (show quote)
The primary issue with correcting keystoning in post processing is that you are losing picture information (and image quality), and depending on the software to "fill in the blanks" which is never a great situation if you are printing, but you can get away with that for website use.
However, with ultrawide lenses, there is no easy way around perspective distortion or volume anamorphosis, other than really careful compostion and lots of cropping.
Oct 16, 2014 18:37:37 #
Gene51 wrote:
Correct, but the opposite will work fine.
OH thank you Gene now I have to go out and buy $3000.00 worth of Canon stuff. She is going to kill me now!!!
Craig
Oct 16, 2014 19:18:28 #
CraigFair wrote:
OH thank you Gene now I have to go out and buy $3000.00 worth of Canon stuff. She is going to kill me now!!!
Craig
Craig
Well at least you'll get the new Canon gear as part of the settlement :)
Oct 16, 2014 19:31:11 #
Gene51 wrote:
Well at least you'll get the new Canon gear as part of the settlement :)
What I'll get to keep is the glass shards and metal & plastis fragments.
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