usaellie101 wrote:
I have a Pentax ( film camera) telephoto lens. I would love to be able to use it on my Nikon D5100. Is there an adaptor that I could use?????
Go to thelensdoctor.co.uk and see what he can do for you. I have a couple of his adapters and they work fine, not like those cheapies from China. Great product. :thumbup:
just keep using your film camera and ditch the digital imaging device. you will get better results.
you would have been better off buying a brick of 120 rollfilm and using your agfa camera. your results would have been markedly better.
this whole "vintage" lens syndrome is very disconcerting to film photographers, of which i am one. please, everyone, stay away from film camera lenses and use those new, wonderful, brilliantly corrected and coated optics, the electronics industry is so intent on selling you for your latest digital imaging device.
I saw the cheaper ones... But then I spotted THAT!!!
:mrgreen:
For the benefit of anyone considering an old "Garage Sale" or a "Gold Nugget" you may have come across on ebay, for your DSLR or 4/3's body below I am linking a list of the flange distances of various manufacturers. As long as your body requires a flange distance shorter than that of the lens that you are considering you can usually find a simple glassless adapter that will enable infinity focus on your camera body.
At any rate I have found that the inexpensive adapters work just fine because the adapter simply acts as a spacer to properly register your lens. I do recommend focus confirm, it is not always totally accurate but it does let you know when you are close and you then fine tune your focus. These old manual lenses have such a long focus throw unlike the new auto focus lenses which typically turn less than a 1/4 of the circumference the lens across entire focus range, manual lenses may be a full 3/4 turn for the full range which allows for fine focusing. The small turn on the modern lenses saves the motor and improves the speed of the auto focus, so the turns have been greatly shortened on the newer lenses.
Here is a camera flange distant chart for anybody interested.
http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~westin/misc/mounts-by-register.htmlAgain, if the lens you are considering came from a camera with a greater flange distance than the camera you own, chances are that you may be able to find an adapter, currently I own adapters for Nikon, Olympus, Pentax K, and M42 for my EOS body, I think that the most I paid for any adapter was about $15.
zundapp5 wrote:
My new lens, from an old Agfa 6x6 that I adapted to DSLR
I quite like the looks of it. Great idea.
A similar adapter has been available for years to adapt pentacon 6/praktisix lenses to nikon or canon or M42. The leaf shutter blad lenses might have certain advantage with the leaf shutter, but they are going to be pricey. I have several pentacon lenses including some Carl Zeiss Jena lenses. A littel Czech optical firm has been hot-rodding kiev cameras and lenses that fit tem for years trading under the name Hartblei. Some of the more interesting lenses are refitted in mounts that give tilt and shift in good measure in any direction.
http://www.photozone.de/reviews/205-hartblei-super-rotator-80mm-f28-mc-test-report--review
Ditto: "Newer quality lenses offer better optical accuracy in both light direction/diffusion and color accuracy so, why look back?"
Rongnongno wrote:
To each their own.
Your adaption works no question, great job.
My real question is:
Newer quality lenses offer better optical accuracy in both light direction/diffusion and color accuracy so, why look back?
In your example it seems that the lens had an iris shutter and flash connection meaning that the flash is synched at any speed (a D-SLR dream) but your camera (or any other camera) cannot deal with it unless you:
1) use long exposure mode and expose with the lens
2) disable the lens shutter and expose using camera manual mode.
Either way this a convoluted approach, not a bad one (I like complexity). You have to admit that this is not for everyone.
Edit The lens/negative and lens/sensor is different. How does this influence the focusing?
I am thinking of circle of diffusion, focal length, focal distance...
To each their own. br br Your adaption works no q... (
show quote)
Sometimes it is just to try something different, sometimes you want a different look. Why would people still use "toy" cameras, or a Holga, or a Lomo? And we see small communities of people that use these cameras exactly for the interesting distortions, flaws and image artifacts introduced by the funky lenses or oddly shaped apertures. I suppose you could use use a medium format digital, with the finest possible lenses, H series Hasselblad maybe? create technically perfect images, then post process the images or apply filters in PP. Sometimes you luck into something really distinctive with one of these cameras or lenses and it just feels right or the images just have a quality that is absurdly difficult to reproduce in PP.
I have my Soviet and East German lenses with adapters for Nikon and used them a lot more with film, but still use them on occasion with digital. of the lot i have, i tend to use the Carl Zeiss Jena 180/2.8 and the Meyer 300/4 more than the others. the 300 for it's lack of modern coatings and fancy glass holds up remarkably well. there is a lot of sample variation, but mine seems to have very little chromatic aberration, which seems to be the most often cited issue with these. this with an Arsat 1.4x teleconverter and an adapter to nikon makes a passable telescope, and is decent for birds and moon pictures.
http://forum.mflenses.com/meyer-optik-goerlitz-orestegor-300mm-f-4-t33035.html I have a 90mm f2.8 Vega lens on the end of a stack of extension tubes and a nikon adapter and that has been my macro lens for years. I suppose i could get something technically better, but this is pretty light, and i like the feel of the native manual focus and the apertures have nice clicks making it easier to know what aperture i am selecting while still concentrating on keeping a bug in focus.
rehess
Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA
I located my last non-AF camera, a Pentax SuperProgram which I retired close to 20 years ago, and found that I had serious trouble focusing it well without using the split-circles it provided for that purpose. How do you routinely attain good focus using an old lens on a new camera?
Sidebar, did you ever ride a Zundapp? Those were very competitive bikes.
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