What is your price structure for RE Photos?
I shoot most bathrooms from the door or far corners so mirrors are seldom a problem. My camera is usually mounted on a tripod not much more than belt high. I often lower it more in bathrooms to get under mirrors. A short snoot on the end of the flash works well in bathrooms because it limits lateral flash and just puts a light on the ceiling. Standing in the hallway, reach through the top of the door and fire the flash as close to the ceiling as you can. Note: my remote trigger is always taped to one of my flashes. If all else fails, you can usually photoshop yourself out of mirrors and reflections in glass shower doors.
Shooting in St. Louis, MO, I charge $95 for 26 photos and $125 for 36 or more. Considering that it takes about 2 hours on site and another 2 hours in Photoshop, it is definately not a get rich plan, but earning $25 to $30 an hour is better than being a greeter at Wal-Mart. I made about $8,000 last year shooting just one or two shoots a week part time.
Wendy2 wrote:
I am a real estate photographer. I set the exposure for the windows and add flashes to expose the interior. Sometimes I have to layer the shots to get a good view out the window. I don't use HDR because it does not look as nice or realistic.
I use dropbox to share the photos with my clients.
Here is one I just shot yesterday. I used no HDR and no layering in any of these shots.
http://www.dropbox.com/sh/1i117oru2x7shdg/AABBQZq6qBMVEOkdREZmJuAyaThis is another shoot that was the most difficult I have done because the house was decorated in very dark colors and I had to pull out all my flashes to light it.
http://www.dropbox.com/sh/o95iwlavsk2yvf4/AAALUxYCq234VsSE5xLTtwgoaI am a real estate photographer. I set the exposu... (
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Great job on your indoor photography presentations.
I also tried to capture views out of windows while capturing an interior shot (of a historic home). For real estate, the suggestion to use a video showing the exterior environment, then the interior is a great idea. But if you want to get the windows, I would suggest Enfuse. It's kind of the un-HDR. I tried HDR products and couldn't get a natural looking result. Enfuse doesn't use tone mapping and comes out looking more natural. I bracketed, taking 5 or 7 exposures, then only sent the best interior exposure and best exterior exposure to Enfuse. Got the result I was trying for. Just a warning, once I got it, I realized the view through the window was drawing attention away from the interior so some over-exposure of the window can be a good thing.
Wendy2 wrote:
Get below the mirror and experiment with flash placement. Sometimes it is unavoidable, so I use PS to correct
If you want to be really picky, just stand near the mirror and take a shot from the mirror's POV to paste in later showing what "should" be reflected.
Armadillo wrote:
Setting your camera up for Exposure Compensation is another, and possibly the better choice. Try the following in your own home first.
1. Set the camera up for one - three external flash units controlled by the camera hot shoe. This requires ETTL exposure control.
2. Pick a manual ISO where the flash output will illuminate the entire room ahead of the camera. (ISO = 200 - 400).
3. Set the camera mode control to "Program". This will allow the camera to control the exposure and flash independently.
4. Point the camera out the window, with the center spot exposure box targeted to the bright area (not the sky), and press the back button for exposure lock. This will set the shutter duration for correct exposure out the window.
5. Point the camera "Center Spot Focus" square on the wall to be included in the composition, depress the shutter button half way. This will set focus lock for the scene and set the flash output for the room. The flash output will be controlled by the light measurement of the flash coming (TTL) through the lens.
6. Re-compose the scene in the viewfinder, make sure the center spot metering square is not near the window. Press the shutter button all the way down to capture the scene.
The above recommendations are based on decades old photographic practices with film cameras, but with the addition of modern camera electronic measurements and controls.
Michael G
br br Setting your camera up for Exposure Compen... (
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Wow, what a good tip! I have never messed with P mode before. But I did alter step 6. Spot metering caused too much flash. Evaluative metering brightened up the room nicely while maintaining the nicely exposed window view. Thank you very much. I also had to deactivate the link of the Spot AE Point frame to the AF frame.
gemlenz wrote:
The hardest thing shooting houses is staying out of the reflections from mirrors. What's the best technique for that?
You are right about that! There are rules against having people in the photos but no one complained about my headless image :-)
Blotted Head
texashill wrote:
You are right about that! There are rules against having people in the photos but no one complained about my headless image :-)
:shock: :shock: :-) :D :lol: :?
It can be challenging. One time I had to stanmd in the closet and another time I opened the medicine cabinet to avoid being seen. I have done HDR on some of my outside shots (but not overdone) and that worked out.
I notice that you correct the lens distortion to make the lines straight. Do you do that in LR?
Wendy2 wrote:
Get below the mirror and experiment with flash placement. Sometimes it is unavoidable, so I use PS to correct
I applied for a job shooting real estate. Was turned down because of lack of experience in real estate photography, and my gear was too old.
Here is how he shot real estate. Canon MKlll, 16-35/2.8, 600 flash on camera, tripod. That's it for daytime shoots. Start at front of house camera on tripod. shoot 5-7 images, blend or HDR later in PP. Put tripod back into vehicle. work inside front to back or end to end. Shoot interiors next using techniques described in above posts. Flash is generally used in manual mode. Rear of house, back yard, pool, shot last. Time on job - 25-35 minutes. PP includes adding captions describing individual rooms, minimal PP for contrast, color, etc. Mail images to company. Total time per job - 1 hr. Number of images - enough to describe property.
Exceptions either side of these guidelines.
Generally, you will not make any money using a tripod indoors unless you are doing evening or architectural or real estate magazine quality photos, in which case the homes are staged for you. Understood that different parts of the country offer more/less depending on market. Busiest times here are October-March, maybe into part of April.
In general - shoot interiors level at a height about 1/2 way from floor to ceiling to achieve best perspective. Hope this helps. I may do this for myself this fall. There are a lot of agents shooting their own properties with phones or p&s.
Very few can be compared to a pro with a dslr. There is hope. lol
texashill wrote:
Wow, what a good tip! I have never messed with P mode before. But I did alter step 6. Spot metering caused too much flash. Evaluative metering brightened up the room nicely while maintaining the nicely exposed window view. Thank you very much. I also had to deactivate the link of the Spot AE Point frame to the AF frame.
texashill,
You are most welcome.
I understand the modified settings you made, all cameras are slightly different, and present slightly different approaches to get the right result. The critical element is fully understanding what the Modes on the camera are doing at the instant we depress the shutter release button. Then we can modify our settings to fit the picture we are capturing.
Off Topic: Texas Hill Country, Fort Hood?, Johnson City?, Austin?, San Antonio?
I ponder to ask, 'cause I was a transplant from N. Calif to NE Texas, Texarkana, for a short spell.
Michael G
You did a terrific job Wendy Two.
Seeya later.
ronny
Wendy2 wrote:
I am a real estate photographer. I set the exposure for the windows and add flashes to expose the interior. Sometimes I have to layer the shots to get a good view out the window. I don't use HDR because it does not look as nice or realistic.
I use dropbox to share the photos with my clients.
Here is one I just shot yesterday. I used no HDR and no layering in any of these shots.
http://www.dropbox.com/sh/1i117oru2x7shdg/AABBQZq6qBMVEOkdREZmJuAyaThis is another shoot that was the most difficult I have done because the house was decorated in very dark colors and I had to pull out all my flashes to light it.
http://www.dropbox.com/sh/o95iwlavsk2yvf4/AAALUxYCq234VsSE5xLTtwgoaI am a real estate photographer. I set the exposu... (
show quote)
:thumbup: :thumbup: :lol:
I use photoshop cc ($9 mo.)which includes the latest version of camera raw. CR's auto straighten setting works perfectly 95% of the time. My overall workflow is to take 2 or 3 exposures of each shot tinkering with strobe output and/or f/stop resulting in about 125 exposures on a 1.5 hour home shoot. Then I use review mode in PS to pick out 30-40 of the best shots, then open 10-15 at a time in CR, straighten, adjust white bal, knock down highlights, bring up shadows, etc. Then open them in PS starting with shadow/highlight to knock down highlights and bring up shadows even more, then I blow out the ceilings using the dodge tool, finally hit 'em with a bit of selective oversaturation to bring out accent. My workflow is on youtube if you're interested.
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