Blurred images...
You need to check your diopter every so often. Putting it in and out of the camera bag could change that dial 1 click every so often. There should be a lock on it so once it's set it stays.
Looking at the cardinal shot labeled "another cardinal", what I see is the birdseed in front is in a lot better focus that the birdseed at the focal plane of the bird's back foot. If you are shooting with your camera at 300mm and at 5.6 and 25ft. you should have 3" in front and 3" in back of the point of focus in acceptable focus. At 30ft.you should have about 4" front and back. It looks like your camera is front focusing.
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html is a site that allows you to put in your data for the shot and see what the depth of field ought to me. One more thing. At 1/100sec. or less, the subject movement becomes dominant, so a feeding bird would have movement speeds that would give you a problem. It's only one data point; however, in the photo labeled "Bluebird Shutter speed 1/332,focal length,190mm" it looks like the limbs closest to the camera are in a lot better focus suggesting again that there is a front focus issue.
Do you wear glasses? If you are shooting with them on try getting a diopter that matches the strength of your glasses and then shoot without glasses. This is what I have started doing and it made a world of difference.
Thank you all for your wonderful help...now to get to a point today to be able to try out your suggestions...
I am sorry Rockin Robin, but I am not sure I understand what you mean by single point versus Auto Point... Is that the square in the middle of the aF setting display? Thanks.
Valleymiss, have you check the focus mode switch. Make sure its on AF not MF. happen to me, blurred shots,once in a while a sharp picture.
RMM
Loc: Suburban New York
If the bluebird shots are without cropping, then it shouldn't be because the autofocus locked in on something else, because NOTHING is in focus.
Danilo wrote:
Hi valleymiss!
A quick look at your cardinal photo shows that it appears sharp enough, with no chromatic aberration (as seen in the other photos) but while enlarging it on my screen it seems to pixelate rather quickly. My question is: you are apparently shooting in "jpeg" mode, are you shooting in "normal" "low" or "fine" "high" quality?
I shoot Nikon, so some of your controls are different than mine. But overall, your shooting with a 10 megapixel camera, and it looks like 3 megapixel in your photos.
You might check this angle to see if your quality adjustments are correct.
Hi valleymiss! br A quick look at your cardinal ph... (
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The problem is that UHH only posts thumbnails unless the OP checks "(store original)". The thumbnails are OK to look at pics but you can't enlarge them. Also if the OP posted with store original the Exif data comes along with the pic if you right click on the download button and "save as".
Yes, and I recommend upping the ISO till you get an exposure time of 1/1000 sec or faster and see if that helps. It will go a long way to reduce camera movement.
RockinRobinG wrote:
Change your metering mode from pattern to spot metering. That should help you to auto focus on a single subject.
My wife Jo and I both have +3 correction in our right eyes, but I wear glasses and she wears contacts problem if we only take one camera if I ajust the dopler for me, without glasses, she grabs the camera and her shots are out of focus. How many times even if the camera autofous she will correct it manual, this will override the AF now we have out of focus picturs, But this does not seem to be your problem I will agree that the autofocus is locking on something other than the subject you antisapate. Try this a tape mesure at least 6 ft lay it on a 45 deg angle accross a table at the mim focal point of the len teather your camer (On a tripod) to laptop and focus camer at the 3 ft 1/16" point and move the dopler until you can get the 3 ft 1/16" in focus, now I beleave you can tell your camera (in the minue)this corection where you can move the dopler back to 0. Maybe the lens is covered by Manufactory, If all lens show the same the body needs to go in for repair
Suggestion: first establish that your cameras and lenses work the way they're supposed to.
Do that by putting your gear on a tripod and using a cable release instead of the shutter button. Try combinatiions of camera body and lens. Look at the images at 100% (actual pixels) and find out if you have any equipment malfunctions.
If not, there's only one explanation left: you're not always holding the camera still enough for the situation. Tf this is the problem, it will show up (or not show up) as a random defect in any series of shots. The second pic of a bluebird above almost looks like a double exposure, certainly the result of a great big camera jiggle.
Final suggestion: rather than punch-pressing the shutter button, learn to release it by rolling your finger across it in a squeezing motion.
All the best....
iThe bluebird shots were cropped, as was the cardinal. is it permissable to upload the photo at full pixel size? Some sites insist you crop them. If so, I can do that. I really appreciate everyone's help... I do hope I am smart enough to use it now.
I know I am lacking in knowledge about where to set what when and if I could ever get that in my mind, I might do better..
Pine cones and blue sky,full size
Some sort of weed As you can see it isn't in focus either...
Yes, I wear glasses. I will certainly try your suggestion.Thanks and happy shooting.
I do check that setting. I have forgotten at times and not changed it, if I am in manual mode,my lense won't turn,so I know I have not changed it. Thanks for your input.
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