First attempt at macro photography. Camera - Nikon D5300, Lens - micro Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 VR
Room light - ISO 400, 105mm, f/8, 1/5 sec
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LED ringlight on lens - ISO 400, 105mm, f/8, 1/800
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Looks like a very good start to me. Interesting, the difference between the lighting. Maybe just keep experimenting with your settings.
I'm only a newbie but, I might suggest trying ISO 200, 1/200-sec at f/16 for a starting point, and adjust ring light settings to see what you get. This is what was recommended to me from far more experienced folks here. You can view my flickr page to see how it's working for me.
Looking good already though :thumbup: And welcome to True Macro :D
For comparison purposes, I suggest that you take a similar photograph using sunlight. There are basically four major sources of illumination: sunlight, incandescent light, LED light, and speedlight. Only sunlight & speedlight illumination offer low ISO, fairly short shutter duration (1/200-sec), and small aperture (f/16). For macro-photography, relying on sunlight is problematic in several ways, whereas speedlight is much more versatile.
You will find that the majority of macro-photographers who contribute to this forum, use diffused speedlight illumination.
The first looks better focused (sharper). Also appears that it is closer to the correct WB. What did you use for WB?
Thanks for the input Bill & Douglass. Am I wrong in thinking that inside with a tripod, the two most important variable setting would be the ISO and the aperture? The ISO set, so a small aperture could be used for DOF. I have found that outside, without a tripod, it's a whole different story. The ISO should be set so that a small aperture could be used for DOF and a high shutter speed to compensate for hand held movement. Taking hand held macro is quite an art in itself. I am amazed at the beautiful pictures you two take. The only adjustment on the ring light is full and half constant light. I have the feeling I am going to have to get a speed light and a soft box.
If you look at the two photos I posted, the more interesting photo is the first one. The highlighted areas on the coin add interest and depth.
Photomacdog wrote:
Am I wrong in thinking that inside with a tripod, the two most important variable setting would be the ISO and the aperture?
The most important variable indoors is color balance, aka White Balance (WB). Compared to sunlight, incandescent light is yellow, and fluorescent tube lights can be green. Speedlight is usually 5600 Kelvin (same as sunlight), and LED is supposed to be similar. Each camera can be adjusted to light source, either manually or automatically. I leave my WB on Auto.
ISO depends upon the intensity of the light reflected from the subject. Bright sunlight allows a low ISO (minimal digital noise), whereas incandescent light may require a much higher ISO (noticeable digital noise). Shutter duration & aperture will be dependent on ISO.
Hi again Nikonian,
I went to your two sites, the ones that have links near your avatar. I am blown away by your work. You take the most fantastic macros I have ever seen. Do you mind if I ask you a couple of questions? Do you use a tripod when you take macros in the field? You say your lite source is a speed light and a soft box. Where do you find all these bugs? How much time do you spend taking these fantastic photos?
Photomacdog wrote:
Do you use a tripod when you take macros in the field? Where do you find all these bugs? How much time do you spend taking these fantastic photos?
No tripod: all of my images say hand-held, in text. Bill Hudson, Kim Moore, and I venture out for 2 or 3 hours just about every weekend, year-round to photograph insects. What can I say? This is Southern California.
My hand-held macro set-up
backside: SB-600 speedlight + 6x8-inch FotoDiox softbox diffuser
Douglass, You need to update your set up photo with your new, not so droopy, soft box fix. :wink:
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MJPD
Loc: Flemington, New Jersey
I would like to now where to get the ball type speed light mount that you use, I can't find it.
MJPD wrote:
I would like to now where to get the ball type speed light mount that you use, I can't find it.
I assume you are referring to my 40-yo Kalt L-grip bracket. New bracket has no ball head, so you have to add one. Take a look here:
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-32754-5.html#2585532
I notice that you are no longer using the inexpensive ring flash that attaches to the regular flash. What do you think about the following two items to make up something similar to what you are currently using?
Lastolite Ezybox Speed-Lite
Wimberley Combo 2 Macro Combo Flash Bracket
berchman wrote:
What do you think about the following two items to make up something similar to what you are currently using?
Lastolite Ezybox Speed-Lite
Wimberley Combo 2 Macro Combo Flash Bracket
Do you mean
http://www.lastolite.us/product_list/1067100.1067106.0.0.0/Ezybox_Speed-Lite which cost $116? My FotoDiox 6x8-inch cost just $15.
The Wimberley Combo 2 Macro Combo Flash Bracket cost more than $165. It is pictured below. I have nothing negative to say about it.
I have achieved the same for far less cost.
Wimberley Combo 2 Macro Combo Flash Bracket
No, I meant this model which cost $75:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/741844-REG/Lastolite_LL_LS2420S_Ezybox_Speed_Lite.htmlI was frightened away by the negative reviews on Amazon of the Foto-Diox so I looked for something that didn't have such negative reviews. Obviously, you have gotten it to work well for you, but I suspect that you have mechanical ability, something I lack.
I wonder how, working handheld, you achieve such excellent focus on a live insect. Do you just move the camera a little forward and backward? Focus is so precise that you must have fantastic control of your hands. Ordinary mortals resort to a focusing rail.
Thanks for your response.
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