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I am going to buy one, but which one?
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Mar 31, 2014 14:09:13   #
Dexter56 Loc: Ohio
 
Alois wrote:
Your best bet would be D4, but that is pretty steep. I have the latest D600 just before D610 was introduced and it works great.
ISO at 800 is quite crisp and clean and 1600 is still nice. 16X20"
prints still look great.


Yes, that seems to be the unanimous choice. I really thought there would be some votes for the 7100, but I guess not. Makes me feel better about getting a 600/610. Like most people agree, the camera to have is the D4 or D3s, but just cant justify spending that kind of money. Other than myself and a few of the other parents I share my pictures with, I am the only one even looking at these. Like anything else, you just want to get as good as you can get, within reason of course.

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Mar 31, 2014 14:21:55   #
Peekayoh Loc: UK
 
Dexter56 wrote:
Yes, that seems to be the unanimous choice. I really thought there would be some votes for the 7100, but I guess not. Makes me feel better about getting a 600/610. Like most people agree, the camera to have is the D4 or D3s, but just cant justify spending that kind of money. Other than myself and a few of the other parents I share my pictures with, I am the only one even looking at these. Like anything else, you just want to get as good as you can get, within reason of course.
Are you sure that's the case? The D4/s is a great niche camera and if most of your work is at highISO, then Ok.

That's not the case for many of us who mainly work at lowISOs and/or use flash. The D4/s then becomes a poor choice.

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Mar 31, 2014 14:23:25   #
Dexter56 Loc: Ohio
 
Peekayoh wrote:
Are you sure that's the case? The D4/s is a great niche camera and if most of your work is at highISO, then Ok.

That's not the case for many of us who mainly work at lowISOs and/or use flash. The D4/s then becomes a poor choice.


No, you are right. I should have said for my purposes it would be the best.

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Mar 31, 2014 14:45:19   #
foxhal Loc: Boynton Beach FL
 
I recently went through the same question. I had the D200 for many years and was happy with it, My wife bought a D7000 and after trying it many times I ended up buying a D800. I do a lot of wildlife shooting and I was concerned about the frame rate and reach of my long lenses, but in the last analysis the feel (form factor) of the D800 was much closer to the D200 and I found I was most comfortable with that. If you are used to, and like, the D200 try the D800 body. I find the smaller bodies (7100 and 610) don't feel right particularly with larger heavier lenses. The other limitations became less important to me than my comfort in handling the camera.

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Mar 31, 2014 14:46:14   #
foxhal Loc: Boynton Beach FL
 
I recently went through the same question. I had the D200 for many years and was happy with it, My wife bought a D7000 and after trying it many times I ended up buying a D800. I do a lot of wildlife shooting and I was concerned about the frame rate and reach of my long lenses, but in the last analysis the feel (form factor) of the D800 was much closer to the D200 and I found I was most comfortable with that. If you are used to, and like, the D200 try the D800 body. I find the smaller bodies (7100 and 610) don't feel right particularly with larger heavier lenses. The other limitations became less important to me than my comfort in handling the camera.

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Mar 31, 2014 14:53:19   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
foxhal wrote:
I recently went through the same question. I had the D200 for many years and was happy with it, My wife bought a D7000 and after trying it many times I ended up buying a D800. I do a lot of wildlife shooting and I was concerned about the frame rate and reach of my long lenses, but in the last analysis the feel (form factor) of the D800 was much closer to the D200 and I found I was most comfortable with that. If you are used to, and like, the D200 try the D800 body. I find the smaller bodies (7100 and 610) don't feel right particularly with larger heavier lenses. The other limitations became less important to me than my comfort in handling the camera.
I recently went through the same question. I had t... (show quote)




:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

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Mar 31, 2014 14:59:11   #
Bram boy Loc: Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
 
Dexter56 wrote:
Yes, but for fast moving sports, the FPS is just so slow. Like I said, if I thought I could get good image quality and a low amount of grain up to, say 6400 with the 7100, that seems like the camera that I need. I am just worried that I wont be able to shoot at that high an ISO. I guess either way it will be a great improvement in image quality compared to my D200.


I agree and 6400 should not be that far away for a good photo , with the d7100

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Mar 31, 2014 15:38:04   #
jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ
 
The full frame camera will be best under low light conditions.

Dexter56 wrote:
Hello everyone. I have been following this site for quite a while, but this is my first posting. I am hoping to get some advice from someone that has both a D600/610 and a D7100. I currently own a D200 and it has been a great camera for me. Love the layout and the feel of the semi-pro body. As long as I do not have to push the ISO too high, it performs great. My main interest in photography is high school sports. The D200 works great as long as there is plenty of light, but for night games under the lousy stadium lights, or inside a gym I am only good up to about ISO 800 before things get too grainy and too much loss of detail. So the question is, a D7100 or D610? Advantages of 7100; better focus system, more reach, slightly faster FPS and of course price. Advantages of 600, better high ISO image quality, which is very important. All my lenses are FX, including my main sports lens, the old but trusty 80-200 AF-S 2.8 By the way, I only shoot sports in JPEG so the buffer is not an issue, and I do crop most of my photos in PP. Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Hello everyone. I have been following this site f... (show quote)

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Mar 31, 2014 15:39:37   #
bjprovo Loc: Northeast CT
 
Gene, I, like ALMOST all of the people on this blog, consider myself a lifelong learner. If my statement is incorrect, please feel free to explain to me how and where I went wrong. To simply make statements like this make me feel as if I am in a discussion with my mother-in-law. I am always willing to learn and grow.
Gene51 wrote:
Steve, I always find it amusing to watch "experts" with most, but not all of the information necessary try to defend incorrect statements. I suspect most are dilletantes anyway. Amusing just the same. :)

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Mar 31, 2014 15:56:43   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
Dexter56 wrote:
Even if I buy it off a private owner and not the original purchaser?
What would be needed as far as sending it back? Any type of sales slip, etc?


It's easily handled - you can ask Nikon, but it might be easier to ask the seller to do you the favor of giving you a copy of the sales receipt. But since this is not a warranty issue, it might not be necessary.

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Mar 31, 2014 16:10:25   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
bjprovo wrote:
Gene, I like ALMOST all of the people on this blog, consider myself a lifelong learner. If my statement is incorrect, please feel free to explain to me how and where I went wrong. To simply make statements like this make me feel as if I am in a discussion with my mother-in-law. I am always willing to learn and grow.


This was not directed at you, it was for the "experts" out there.

Everything you wrote makes perfect sense. And you are correct in assuming that sensor crop is similar to post crop.

Contrary to what Amehta wrote, using a FF in DX mode doesn't change the amount of light, just the effective angle of view, and diminish the amount of cropping needed for the final image in some cases. Using the full sensor gives you little advantage if you will be cropping in post anyway, since in either case you will end up with fewer pixels. Cropping a sensor and cropping in post are similar. If you shoot a headshot where the image is 20 mm from chin to top of head on the sensor, you will have to shoot it in portrait orientation with the cropped sensor but would be able to shoot it in landscape orientation with the full sensor. The light would not change at all, and if you wanted a nice 8x10 of that headshot, you will use the same amount of image area, but you will obviously crop more with the full frame image. But the final shot will be identical, regardless of whether you cropped the sensor or not. With a given focal length and camera to sensor distance, the magnification of the image will not change, nor will the number of pixels required to create the final printed image.

And Peekayoh missed something as well. Using a tele extender enlarges the image on the sensor, so you have the same number of pixels and same amount of detail (assuming a good match between the lens and the extender) but a smaller angle of view, as opposed to cropping. which will degrade the image by discarding information as you pointed out for the cropping.

Steve, clearly your intuition and experience have not failed you. No matter what the "experts" say. Sorry experts - you missed the mark on this one.

Can I still be included in the list of those you like? :)

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Mar 31, 2014 16:16:50   #
Bram boy Loc: Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
 
bjprovo wrote:
I had the same issue as you, I shoot high school with a D300 and wanted to move forward. After much researching and anguishing I decided to go with the D610. The higher ISO is probably the overriding factor. I know many sports photographers will tell you that fps is big, but I can't afford any form of the D4 so that ends that issue. I was taught that if you shot 7fps at 1/500 of a second than you have captured 7/500 of a second and missed out on 493/500 of that second. I try to anticipate and choose my moments and I have become good at it but there is a huge learning curve.
I had the same issue as you, I shoot high school w... (show quote)


well if it was a still picture you missed out on nothing . as you have got everything that the light has brought to light the scene . but if it was moving
you have only missed those intervals in between each shot , which amounts to very little . a video camera takes 24 to 30 frames a second . and there's spaces between each frame that there is nothing . you would have to shoot a moving bullet with a strobe lite to see it . even your tv is going on and off , but it is so fast you don't see it . just wave your hand up and down in front of your tv and you will see it blinking on and off on your fingers .

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Mar 31, 2014 16:28:41   #
bjprovo Loc: Northeast CT
 
I understand what you are saying and don't disagree with your premise. However, when I shoot a baseball game and try to get the bat striking the pitch it very rarely works out on burst shooting. It is even more pronounced when shooting a golfer during his swing, I have never been able to capture the club hitting the ball during a burst, there really is a lot going on in between each frame. I just decided to work on capturing the moment instead.
Bram boy wrote:
well if it was a still picture you missed out on nothing . as you have got everything that the light has brought to light the scene . but if it was moving
you have only missed those intervals in between each shot , which amounts to very little . a video camera takes 24 to 30 frames a second . and there's spaces between each frame that there is nothing . you would have to shoot a moving bullet with a strobe lite to see it . even your tv is going on and off , but it is so fast you don't see it . just wave your hand up and down in front of your tv and you will see it blinking on and off on your fingers .
well if it was a still picture you missed out on n... (show quote)

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Mar 31, 2014 16:32:13   #
bjprovo Loc: Northeast CT
 
Poor use of commas on my part, I did go back and edit but you may have me confused with another post. I was the 7/500 and the 493/500 you seemed to aim your comment towards.
Gene51 wrote:
This was not directed at you, it was for the "experts" out there.

Everything you wrote makes perfect sense. And you are correct in assuming that sensor crop is similar to post crop.

Contrary to what Amehta wrote, using a FF in DX mode doesn't change the amount of light, just the effective angle of view, and diminish the amount of cropping needed for the final image in some cases. Using the full sensor gives you little advantage if you will be cropping in post anyway, since in either case you will end up with fewer pixels. Cropping a sensor and cropping in post are similar. If you shoot a headshot where the image is 20 mm from chin to top of head on the sensor, you will have to shoot it in portrait orientation with the cropped sensor but would be able to shoot it in landscape orientation with the full sensor. The light would not change at all, and if you wanted a nice 8x10 of that headshot, you will use the same amount of image area, but you will obviously crop more with the full frame image. But the final shot will be identical, regardless of whether you cropped the sensor or not. With a given focal length and camera to sensor distance, the magnification of the image will not change, nor will the number of pixels required to create the final printed image.

And Peekayoh missed something as well. Using a tele extender enlarges the image on the sensor, so you have the same number of pixels and same amount of detail (assuming a good match between the lens and the extender) but a smaller angle of view, as opposed to cropping. which will degrade the image by discarding information as you pointed out for the cropping.

Steve, clearly your intuition and experience have not failed you. No matter what the "experts" say. Sorry experts - you missed the mark on this one.

Can I still be included in the list of those you like? :)
This was not directed at you, it was for the "... (show quote)

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Mar 31, 2014 16:45:03   #
PAR4DCR Loc: A Sunny Place
 
Why don't you try renting both and see for yourself which one better serves your needs.
Don

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