Namwife, a dslr has simple to use M or manual mode. I call it simple because it follows a few basic make sense rule...rule one how sensitive is the sensor...called ISO and a rule of thumb is set 100-200 range for noise free image quality. Next is look in the view finder with camera turned on and see the light meter...pick either aperature or shutter speed and turn the know or wheel while watching the meter...if it don't move in one direction try the other and if it still don't move check to see if your lens cap is still over the lens...it should move if pointed at a strong light source. you turn the knob or wheel till it is centered in the range and should be a '0' setting somewhere in that range of values. Take you first shot. Now if you back down that selected knob by one click and your turn the other knob up one click you will see the reading is the same...meaning what you do to one (aperture or shutter) in one direction...doing the same to the other, but in the opposite direction will give you a same reading...and play with these combinations along with changing the ISO will soon have you using manual with the same ease as using full auto or programmed modes. I hope this helps and if covered before sorry, but I don't have much time on site. L3
Namwife wrote:
Does anyone know where to find the best on line tutorials on how to use manual mode? I shoot in P or S modes but I need to learn Manual....I would appreciate any help....
A short tutorial on f/stops:
When you see a reference to f/5.6 or f/8, etc., what you are seeing is a fraction, no different that 1/2 or 1/5, or 1/10, etc. the "f" stands for "focal length" of the lens in use, and the number below the line tells you how far opened the diaphram inside the lens is opened.
Example: if you are using a lens that says on its barrel that it is a 50mm f/2, what it's telling you is that the maximum opening available with this lens is 25mm (50mm/2 = 25mm).
If you set the exposure to f/4, what you're doing is closing down the lens to one-fourth of its focal length; in this case, 50/4 = 12.5mm.
Notice that as the "f" number goes up, the amount that the lens is opened goes down: f/2 is a 25mm opening; f/4 is a 12.5mm opening, etc.
Now, why does any of this matter? Because the shutter speed, combined with the "f" stop and the ISO, determine the exposure. If the shot looks too dark, it's undersxposed, which means that you need to get more light onto the sensor (or what used to be the film in olden days). You can do this in one of three ways: slow the shutter speed (go from say 1/100 sec. to 1/50 sec., which is twice as long) or increase the ISO (go from 100 to 200 or 400) or open the lens up further (go from, say, f/5.6 to f/4 or f/2.8).
The setting that you will have occasion to change the least is the ISO. This used to be called ASA in film days, and was a measure of how sensative the film was to light. The higher the number, the more sensative.
Second example: Lets say that you took a shot and it looks too dark to you. You need more light inside the camera, hitting the sensor. If the camera took the shot by setting f/5.6 at 1/50 of a second (with the ISO set to 100), you can change the lens opening to f/4 or f/2.8, and or change the shutter speed to 1/25 of a second.
Lets say you do this; change the "f" stop to f/4, or the shutter speed to 1/25, and take another shot. Now the exposure looks good, but it's a little blurry. That's because 1/25 sec. is slower than most people can hand hold a camera, and you need to use a tripod. But you don't own a tripod, or didn't bring one with you, etc. You can go back to 1/50 sec. and open the lens up another stop, to f/2.8, OR increase the ISO to 200, or 400.
wow. Just went to this site and had a blast with the different f/stops and shutter speeds. Way easier than messing with the camera with all the settings. Now I will apply it to the camera with a little more knowledge. Thanks so much for the site info.
tinosa wrote:
Once you have a basic understanding of aperture and shutter speed this is a link to a camera simulator, you can plug-in different combinations of f-stops and shutter speeds to see their effects on exposure.
Of course you could do the same with your camera but this is more convenient.
http://www.photonhead.com/simcam/shutteraperture.php
Kodak printed out a wonderful manual mode books, because there was no auto cameras at that time. It will teach you f-stop verses shutter speed verses ASA settings. The book is no bigger than a "pocket book". I have a new student and she has my book or I would give you the name of the book.
THE best explanation for this that I've ever read. Thank you
Nevada Chuck wrote:
A short tutorial on f/stops:
When you see a reference to f/5.6 or f/8, etc., what you are seeing is a fraction, no different that 1/2 or 1/5, or 1/10, etc. the "f" stands for "focal length" of the lens in use, and the number below the line tells you how far opened the diaphram inside the lens is opened.
Example: if you are using a lens that says on its barrel that it is a 50mm f/2, what it's telling you is that the maximum opening available with this lens is 25mm (50mm/2 = 25mm).
If you set the exposure to f/4, what you're doing is closing down the lens to one-fourth of its focal length; in this case, 50/4 = 12.5mm.
Notice that as the "f" number goes up, the amount that the lens is opened goes down: f/2 is a 25mm opening; f/4 is a 12.5mm opening, etc.
Now, why does any of this matter? Because the shutter speed, combined with the "f" stop and the ISO, determine the exposure. If the shot looks too dark, it's undersxposed, which means that you need to get more light onto the sensor (or what used to be the film in olden days). You can do this in one of three ways: slow the shutter speed (go from say 1/100 sec. to 1/50 sec., which is twice as long) or increase the ISO (go from 100 to 200 or 400) or open the lens up further (go from, say, f/5.6 to f/4 or f/2.8).
The setting that you will have occasion to change the least is the ISO. This used to be called ASA in film days, and was a measure of how sensative the film was to light. The higher the number, the more sensative.
Second example: Lets say that you took a shot and it looks too dark to you. You need more light inside the camera, hitting the sensor. If the camera took the shot by setting f/5.6 at 1/50 of a second (with the ISO set to 100), you can change the lens opening to f/4 or f/2.8, and or change the shutter speed to 1/25 of a second.
Lets say you do this; change the "f" stop to f/4, or the shutter speed to 1/25, and take another shot. Now the exposure looks good, but it's a little blurry. That's because 1/25 sec. is slower than most people can hand hold a camera, and you need to use a tripod. But you don't own a tripod, or didn't bring one with you, etc. You can go back to 1/50 sec. and open the lens up another stop, to f/2.8, OR increase the ISO to 200, or 400.
A short tutorial on f/stops: br br When you see a... (
show quote)
Ditto Bruce, I even learned something and I've been a full-time pro since '75. ( or maybe I knew it and forgot) Thanks!
Nevada Chuck wrote:
A short tutorial on f/stops:
When you see a reference to f/5.6 or f/8, etc., what you are seeing is a fraction, no different that 1/2 or 1/5, or 1/10, etc. the "f" stands for "focal length" of the lens in use, and the number below the line tells you how far opened the diaphram inside the lens is opened.
Example: if you are using a lens that says on its barrel that it is a 50mm f/2, what it's telling you is that the maximum opening available with this lens is 25mm (50mm/2 = 25mm).
If you set the exposure to f/4, what you're doing is closing down the lens to one-fourth of its focal length; in this case, 50/4 = 12.5mm.
Notice that as the "f" number goes up, the amount that the lens is opened goes down: f/2 is a 25mm opening; f/4 is a 12.5mm opening, etc.
A short tutorial on f/stops: br br When you see a... (
show quote)
Now that's the clearest explanation of f stops I've ever come across. Of course, it reminds me of the time I substituted in a remedial math class where I was supposed to teach the students decimal fractions. When I suggested that to get the decimal equivalent of 1/2, you should divide the 2 into the 1. Several hands went up, "Mr. Spellman, 2 doesn't go into 1." Oh well.
GO TO THIS SITE:
IT WILL BE THE MOST HELPFUL THING YOU CAN DO!
http://camerasim.com/camera-simulator/Gidgette wrote:
MWAC wrote:
Best thing I ever did when I was interested in switching to manual was pick up the book "Understand Exposure" it explained it in "normal" people talk.
Just ordered Understanding Exposure. Hope it helps.
[quote=ole sarg]GO TO THIS SITE:
IT WILL BE THE MOST HELPFUL THING YOU CAN DO!
http://camerasim.com/camera-simulator/Amazing!!!!
How did I ever learn this?
(trial & error and a lot of darkroom time, I'm sure)
Remember the "Sunny 16 Rule"? Use the ASA (ISO) as the shutter speed (reciprocal, you know what I mean), & then for sunny scenes, use f/16; Hazy, f/11; Cloudy, f/8; Shade, f/5.6.
One of the best ways to learn Manual Mode is th shell out $35 for an old 35mm camera, like an Argus C3, totally manual, from ebay, put some film in it, & try to get the best shots you can. The first roll or 2 will be disasters, but they (you) will improve. Your photography will improve. You'll wind up having fun. People will talk to you about your 'old' camera. Who knows where it could end up.
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Jessies5thkid wrote:
I'm an old guy, so when I was a teen-ager beginning to take pictures, I HAD to learn manual because that's all there was. The film manufacturers used to include a printed sheet with each roll of film, giving guidelines under various DAYLIGHT conditions. In a nutshell, here it is:
1. Set the shutter speed to roughly correspond to film speed (ASA or ISO), that is if you had ISO 400 film, set the shutter on 1/250 or 1/500, just above or below the film speed number. I don't remember any film speed of 125, 250, 500, 1000, etc., that exactly matched shutter speeds, but it was not a big problem, since film had some latitude for error. Some cameras back then had shutter speeds of 1/50, 1/100, 1/200, 1/400, and so on.
2. Then set f-stop (aperture) according to:
-- in snow or on beach with bright sun F22
-- bright sun F16
-- hazy sun or "cloudy but still bright" F11
-- under a tree on sunny day F8
-- deep shade F5.6
3. When using flash, go by the "Guide Number" for that flash unit. The guide number divided by the distance in feet will give you the F-stop to use. (Can you believe that some old cameras were not wired to use a flash? I have an old Argus C-2 35mm that had no connections for flash)
You weren't perfect the first time you skated, rode a bicycle, or drove a car, but experience will give you a "feel" for all these matters, so that you won't have to get out a calculator or exposure meter every time you start to use a camera. Oh, wait... we didn't have calculators, either, back in the dinosaur days. LOL.
I'm an old guy, so when I was a teen-ager beginnin... (
show quote)
Agree get an old film camera and go at it. just you, the camera, light meter and a 50mm lens.....
Namwife wrote:
Does anyone know where to find the best on line tutorials on how to use manual mode? I shoot in P or S modes but I need to learn Manual....I would appreciate any help....
WOW ! Thank you to all of you who have replied to this question and for all the great advice.... Looks like w/ all this help I should be shooting manual in no time :)
Short version: Take many pictures, and learn from your mistakes.
rickyd wrote:
shoot, read, shoot, read, shoot, ,,it takes lots and lots of practice,,taking 100s of bad shots, and then more reading, shooting, lol,,I think the main thing is,,read all you can,,shoot all you can,,then start over,,
steve40
Loc: Asheville/Canton, NC, USA
When I started taking pictures, like someone else said, manual was all there was. Well with the exception of the Brownie Hawkeye's, one button photography. :)
My first 35mm was a sears Tower 10, a 35mm range finder made for Sears by Olympus. It was fully ---- Manual, it had a hotshoe lightmeter, which you set the ASA (ISO) speed for. And read the popper (well sort of close) exposure from.
Except you had to know how to compensate for back light, side light, high contrast, low contrast, hmmm makes you wonder! just what good was that lightmeter anyway. :lol:
That's the way I learned "Exposure".
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