Hi Hoggers!
I am hoping to take some pictures of the ice caves in Northern Wisconsin this weekend. We have not had them since I think 2008, so it is a unique opportunity!
I have a Nikon D3200, an 18-55, 55-300, & a105 lenses. O use aperture priority and am really not familiar with the other settings besides auto :-D .
My questions are the following:
1. Although I want to take my camera, I will be hiking at least a mile on Lake Superior to get to the caves, I only have one battery and nowhere to pick up another one quickly. Will my battery last?
2. Is it wise to take the camera in this type of area, as it is ice, so I am unsure how to carry my camera. I could be crawling thru tight spots, and while I can take my camera in and out of the bag, is that good for the camera. The high will be around 12F degrees. (believe it or not the first time out of below zero in 45 days!
3. What lens should I take? I sure don't want to cart around more than one!
4. What aperture would you recommend inside a cave, and would the pop up flash be sufficient? I do have an SB 700.
5.
Do I just use my Old Canon SX110 p&P instead??
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!
Hope I gave all the info needed to help me out!
Thanks
It will be well worth your hike onto the lake. (1) As to the battery I would make sure it's fully charged and carry it in an inside pocket until you're ready to shoot. (2) I've shot w/ pentax K10d at 20 below without a problem. Once back inside I leave it in the bag a few hours to prevent condensation. (3-4) IMHO the 18-55 should be all you need and the in camera flash should be fine. Have fun.
pelirrojo wrote:
It will be well worth your hike onto the lake. (1) As to the battery I would make sure it's fully charged and carry it in an inside pocket until you're ready to shoot. (2) I've shot w/ pentax K10d at 20 below without a problem. Once back inside I leave it in the bag a few hours to prevent condensation. (3-4) IMHO the 18-55 should be all you need and the in camera flash should be fine. Have fun.
Thanks for the helpful info pelirrojo! What do you think about about the possible slipping and falling? I would take my lo pro bag. It is the small one -and would go over my shoulder or across my neck.
What does IMHO stand for?
mapster wrote:
Thanks for the helpful info pelirrojo! What do you think about about the possible slipping and falling? I would take my lo pro bag. It is the small one -and would go over my shoulder or across my neck.
What does IMHO stand for?
IMHO = in my humble opinion. I haven't been there yet but I would think the trail should be well snow packed, a good boot should do or a pair of yak tracks ($15-20)on a lesser boot.
Looking forward to seeing your photos.
I spend hours at a time shooting in winter along the lake shore.
1. Charge the battery up full, keep it warm in a pocket 'til you need it (though I never do that. I have never had a battery die on me out there.)
2. Condensation when you bring it back indoors is the concern. Otherwise, go for it.
3. I would use a 50mm myself and move my body around rather than looking for a lens to do that for me.
4. I would find flash to be a hassle out there and of limited use. I would shoot f8 or f11
5. You might want to consider the p and s camera. Remember, the photographer makes the images, not the camera. You want to put your attention on the subject, not the equipment. Think about what you are going to be most comfortable handling out there.
There are lots of people out there shooting this right now, so you might want to look for a different perspective than everyone else is going for. People tend to follow what everyone else is doing, so look for where others have not gone and see what they might be overlooking.
Take your time, move around, try a variety of angles and have fun!
Mike
Will you be shooting in JPEG or RAW? Or both? If you are shooting just in JPEG your white balance could be a concern. In snowy conditions your bright whites could end up looking gray. Ice caves could produce similar results. Others on here can probably tell you if that will be a concern with your camera and give you some tips. It's easy to change your W/B in RAW during post processing but a JPEG is a different story. I've seen mention of software that will do JPEGs but don't know any more about it.
Blenheim Orange wrote:
I spend hours at a time shooting in winter along the lake shore.
1. Charge the battery up full, keep it warm in a pocket 'til you need it (though I never do that. I have never had a battery die on me out there.)
2. Condensation when you bring it back indoors is the concern. Otherwise, go for it.
3. I would use a 50mm myself and move my body around rather than looking for a lens to do that for me.
4. I would find flash to be a hassle out there and of limited use. I would shoot f8 or f11
5. You might want to consider the p and s camera. Remember, the photographer makes the images, not the camera. You want to put your attention on the subject, not the equipment. Think about what you are going to be most comfortable handling out there.
There are lots of people out there shooting this right now, so you might want to look for a different perspective than everyone else is going for. People tend to follow what everyone else is doing, so look for where others have not gone and see what they might be overlooking.
Take your time, move around, try a variety of angles and have fun!
Mike
I spend hours at a time shooting in winter along t... (
show quote)
Thanks for the help Mike. I don't have a 50mm lens - too new to all of this yet! Am really looking forward to it.....even if it will be cold!
I would assume there is lots to see. Hope I get some decent photographs. I do not have any soft wear to correct either.
LFingar wrote:
Will you be shooting in JPEG or RAW? Or both? If you are shooting just in JPEG your white balance could be a concern. In snowy conditions your bright whites could end up looking gray. Ice caves could produce similar results. Others on here can probably tell you if that will be a concern with your camera and give you some tips. It's easy to change your W/B in RAW during post processing but a JPEG is a different story. I've seen mention of software that will do JPEGs but don't know any more about it.
Will you be shooting in JPEG or RAW? Or both? If y... (
show quote)
I only shoot jpeg, way to novice to get into anything else yet. Also do not have any software to use raw. Computer too old, etc., etc.,!
But white balance I have not thought of, ant suggestions you can give me? And I would assume inside the caves would be different then on the edges??
Thanks.
pelirrojo wrote:
IMHO = in my humble opinion. I haven't been there yet but I would think the trail should be well snow packed, a good boot should do or a pair of yak tracks ($15-20)on a lesser boot.
Have UGGs for boots and yak tracks, standard equipment for you and I!
G Brown
Loc: Sunny Bognor Regis West Sussex UK
Your Nikon cd has a programme on it that will open any raw files you set the camera to take.(for later not this weekend)
white balance will alter depending on natural light (shade/cloudy/sun) or flash. Once you are set up for a shot take a couple of trials by changing just the wB and look at the displayed color - one or two wasted pics won't matter but a color hue throughout all your pictures will.
also watch that your auto exposure isn't thrown off by the whiteness. When I was in Switzerland I was told to shoot -1 ev to stop the snow overexposing the scenes. (landscapes) again think about your levels (amount of blacks and whites in the view) if lots of white/or flash off wet stone close up -1 if blacks +1 ......Try before you go....go photograph close ups of snow and car tyres or tree stumps and see how the amount of snow in the view alters the resuling exposure (then try it +- ev and see how it works) better now than in the caves.. don't forget to charge your battery afterwards
have fun
George
As it happens I made a visit to the Ice Caves in the Mt Adams Wilderness Area (Washington, USA) just yesterday.
Take your strobe and I see no mention of a tripod (very useful). Temp was about 12F no issues.
With a stable camera u can use lower shutter spds and fire the strobe manually from different angles including from behind the ice.
G Brown wrote:
Your Nikon cd has a programme on it that will open any raw files you set the camera to take.(for later not this weekend)
white balance will alter depending on natural light (shade/cloudy/sun) or flash. Once you are set up for a shot take a couple of trials by changing just the wB and look at the displayed color - one or two wasted pics won't matter but a color hue throughout all your pictures will.
also watch that your auto exposure isn't thrown off by the whiteness. When I was in Switzerland I was told to shoot -1 ev to stop the snow overexposing the scenes. (landscapes) again think about your levels (amount of blacks and whites in the view) if lots of white/or flash off wet stone close up -1 if blacks +1 ......Try before you go....go photograph close ups of snow and car tyres or tree stumps and see how the amount of snow in the view alters the resuling exposure (then try it +- ev and see how it works) better now than in the caves.. don't forget to charge your battery afterwards
have fun
George
Your Nikon cd has a programme on it that will open... (
show quote)
Thanks George,
I will get outside tomorrow and "play" with what you are stating here. I appreciate the help.
Doyle Thomas wrote:
As it happens I made a visit to the Ice Caves in the Mt Adams Wilderness Area (Washington, USA) just yesterday.
Take your strobe and I see no mention of a tripod (very useful). Temp was about 12F no issues.
With a stable camera u can use lower shutter spds and fire the strobe manually from different angles including from behind the ice.
Unfortunately, I have no strobes, I am way to novice for that yet! I have lots to learn, and that is a little too advanced going for me yet! However, I do have a tripod and monopod I can use. For weight sake, I will probably take the mono!
Thanks for the suggestion!
By the way, great photographs, hope mine turn put half as good!
Two lenses, the widest you have and the macro.
Definitely the tripod instead of the monopod.
With a tripod you can take shots up to 30 secs, with a monopod you are still limited to about 1/30th sec.
1 mile is nothing.
Learn to carry stuff.
I don't mean to sound harsh, but its the difference between getting the shot, or not getting anything.
Having said that - if you do not have the proper clothing and equipment, don't go at all.
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