docrob Loc: Durango, Colorado

I see you changed the wording.....from clarity to contrast but you see contrast is created by strong light and a cloudy day there are no shadows or contrast to get.......so you did get a clear show with as much contrast as the light provides....


Or just go into PP or Elements, hit the saturation button and pump it up!

mike813 Loc: Arkansas

One thing you could also do is change to spot metering since you are centering on the plane. The camera will then use that "spot" to sample instead of using the overall scene and the bright sky.

Also if you have an editing program with curves, you could do a quick fix like this.

Cadugand Loc: Houston, Texas

Excellent!

small_cents Loc: Ashland Ma. 01721

aways use the flash ,,external is the best

PNagy Loc: Missouri City, Texas

2Don: You didn't say what camera, settings, or lens you used. I would say that on a cloudy day you should do exactly what you did here. If you find the picture too gloomy, just spice it up with an application of the curves filter on an image editing program.

PNagy Loc: Missouri City, Texas

One other adjustment that would help is the Shadows/Highlights filter in Photoshop. By opening the dark values a bit you could key the plane out more effectively. In order to avoid this, on your next shot you could increase the exposure a bit.

dundeelad Loc: Originally UK. Current West Dundee, Illinois

Love shot #1 nice job.

lvphotog Loc: Las Vegas, Nevada

One piece of advice I got early on was to avoid blowouts unless that's an explicitly intended effect. Since your sensor can't manage the dynamic range that you're given without a blowout, you have to artificially extend it. To do that, shoot (at least) two exposures, one for the sky and one for the plane. Modify only the exposure, not the aperture, as that changes the shape of the lens and skews the resulting image.

You can merge the shots in post-processing. If you're shooting handheld, shoot as if you're doing a panoramic series; shoot the entire scene at each exposure and merge them in a program like ptgui that will export the aligned frames so you can import them as layers in Photoshop for blending. If you're shooting from tripod they should be well-aligned so you can bring them directly into Photoshop layers.

You can still salvage the image you have using a "screen" layer in Photoshop to boost the poorly exposed parts, blending that back into the original. The results are not as perfect as a multi-exposure shot but can be quite acceptable.

These techniques are not properly HDR, but allow you to extend the dynamic range of your sensor.

JohnM Loc: Springfield, Illinois

fantastic

Norma Jean Loc: Omro, Wisconsin

Could you Please share what you did to change the photo and what pp program you used.

2 Dog Don Loc: Virginia Beach VA

Thanks now you have to share the technique with me

melphoto60

you need a cloudy overcast lens they sell them on e-bay, or they have an app for that if you shot with an iphone...just kidding

twowindsbear

"Sky Raider Tuning Up" . . . is the airplane 'tuning up' to fly? Rather than a static display?

Interisting fact about the MIG, too.

Indi Loc: L. I., NY, Palm Beach Cty when it's cold.

Buy an add-on called ReDynamix. It's about $20.00. Someone from UHH turned me on to it. All I did with yours is open them in PSE 10, and click on the ReDynamix filter. Absolutely no other treatment except on YOUR first one I also cropped it, obviously.

Indi Loc: L. I., NY, Palm Beach Cty when it's cold.

Check my reply to 2 Dog Don.