Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

I have found that most any macro lens will give you nice , sharp images. The key is the technique. You can have the highest rated lens out there, but if your technique isn't right, the images will suffer. Many people will blame a lens in this scenario. I've got 6 different AF & MF macro lenses but find I use an older 105mm F2.8MF model more than any other. Focal length is the primary determining factor IMHO... 40-60mm are pretty short & you will be right on top of your subject. Good for static subjects & copy work, but not most insects. 90-105 is the most versatile range as you get a bit more working distance. Over 105 & then the lenses start going up dramatically in price & size/weight. There are other ways to shoot macro (tubes, close up lenses (filter style) & bellows) but a dedicated macro lens is the most convenient. with the fewest compromises.People will say to get a tripod, focus rails & other gear, but those 2 items, while good for studio work, are impractical in the field, especially if you are shooting skittish critters. The subject moves too fast for you to get the equipment set up. Now that's not to say that they can't be used & that you don't get good results. It's that they are limiting & force you to pre-plan your shots a lot more.As for AF & VR, well , that's a mixed bag. True macro shooting (at 1:1, life sized) should be done focusing manually. With the narrow DOF, the AF systems of the camera will have extreme difficulty finding proper focus (where you want it that is). If you shoot at 1/2 life size then AF can be more useful. Same goes for vibration control. Nikon's literature that is packed with their micro lenses even alludes to this fact. The best tool to add when shooting macro is the use of either a ring light or other form of additional lighting. The short duration of the flash will freeze motion, either yours or your subjects & also allows you to stop down your lens for greater DOF. Macro lighting setups can be expensive but don't have to be. Take a look in the true macro forum & you will see lots of DIY setups. Personally, I use an older ring/point light unit that was sold to Dentists for inter-oral photos. The other nice thing about addtional lighting is that you can create the dramatic lighting effect where the background becomes black, or you can adjust the light to simply be a "fill" light to add more light to show off intricate details without affecting the background..... OK, I've been tayping way too much. Hope you are able to glean helpful info from this.

NMR Loc: Edmonton, Canada

When shopping for a new macro lens for my son, we compared the Nikon 105 and the Tokina 100 lenses. We much preferred the Tokina. Much less chromatic aberrations. My son also has a D5100, so the Tokina doesn't auto-focus on that camera body. However, the image quality was so much better that the AF issue was really a non-issue.

Lenscracker

My most used lenses are macro lenses. I only traded in the 150mm macro because they came out with an OS version. The resolution of each lens is fantastic. I liked them so much that I also bought the 180mm OS version. These are both really great lenses. I do not think that any manufacturer makes a better macro lens. I also own the Canon 100mm IS macro lens. I only use this one when I want a shorter focal length.

ZappaMan Loc: Williamsport, MD

I agree with this. Often the subject matter is not distinct enough for an AF lock where you want it or hunting for focus occurs. That said, I have the 60mm AF and the 105mm AF-S and they both produce spectacular results. I often use a CamRanger in Macro since I can specify the area I want in focus by pointing to it on the image display. In addition to that I can automatically run an incremental focus series and stack the images in Photoshop making some unimaginable shots of static subject matter.

wj cody Loc: springfield illinois

for macro work, you want to manual focus, as the eye is the more critical focusing device. and for that the 200mm f4 ais micro nikkor can't be beat. if you insist on af capability then the 200mm f4 d micro nikkor is the lens for you.
hope this is of some assistance to you.

rmw0001 Loc: Lake Mills, WI

She tried a Nikor 105mm that would not auto focus on her camera and she tried doing some flower/macro shots and she hated the lack of focusing ability and she stated it was hard to keep focusing, especially if there was an insect or any type of movement in the macro. She is looking at the Nikor AF-S format 105mm lens, but again, it is really expensive and we are both "hobby" photographers.

If that lens is the Nikon AF Micro Nikkor, you can't get a better lens in my opinion. It sounds like your friend is where I was a few months ago... until I learned that you have to 1) move the camera along the focusing rail to a rough focus position and then 2) try to manually focus (but I've found the focus ring is too coarse because to the very tiny depth of field).

Check the "A Little Macro Work" gallery at my SmugMug site listed below. You'll see my set up (so far) and a few of my first shots. The world of macro is an interesting world.

amehta Loc: Boston

The 200mm f/4D micro will not autofocus on her D5100, since it does not have an internal focusing motor. And it's even more "crazy priced..." But it is spectacular! :-)

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Not really a lens to hand hold, for sure...

bogeyeliot Loc: Signal Hill, CA

I have a nikkor 85mm macro lens that I bought to go with my own D5100....it's a great lens for both macro and "prime" work, for just over half the price of the 105mm macro that nikon makes.

amehta Loc: Boston

The monopod helps a lot.

RobWagoner

I have a used Nikon 105 mm 2.8 macro. For macro I only use it in manual focus on a tripod. Focus is just too critical to do AF. VR is not necessary for Macro on a tripod either.

jmhicks

I initially bought a used Sigma 180 3.5 for under $500. I also found a used Nikon 105 f/2.8 for an excellent price that I couldn't resist. The 180 gives you more room for butterflies and bugs.
This was taken with the 105, D800 f/20 using a reflector.

cthahn

Nikon 105mm f2.8

morrisb Loc: adelaide south australia

I have Tamron 90mm macro f2.8 1-1 prime for my Nikon d7000. nice lens , about A$400.00.

davidrb Loc: Half way there on the 45th Parallel

:lol: If you want to shoot macro you must learn the art of focusing. AF is not reliable. Macro is "prime" shooting, no AF, no zoom. AF works in close-up shots.