How to control light quality; size and distance (Page 2): good information :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:...

mborn Loc: Massachusetts

good information
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Rustybucket Loc: England

rpavich wrote:

This should give you an idea of how to light your subjects or how to use the existing light to your advantage; i.e. soft portraits need close up BIG light for soft shadow transitions and harsh "street/gritty/sports" shots need smaller light sources farther away for harsher shadow transitions.

rpavich....great explanation. Even I understood it and I know sod all about lighting. Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain :-)

Big Stopper Loc: London

rpavich wrote:

Yep...that's exactly right...from their perspective (6' tall adults) your flash is TINY.

Here is an easy way to fix that...turn the flash head around sideways and let it blast into the nearest wall.

Wall 15' x 15' + subjects same size as before = HUGE SOFTBOX.

Here is a portrait that I did just that way:

Thank you - I have often used bounced flash off a ceiling but I had never considered using the walls - or anything else for that matter. Very useful, thanks again. Bob

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Rustybucket wrote:

rpavich....great explanation. Even I understood it and I know sod all about lighting. Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain :-)

You are very welcome!

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

bobbybob wrote:

Thank you - I have often used bounced flash off a ceiling but I had never considered using the walls - or anything else for that matter. Very useful, thanks again. Bob

I think that it works very well, though I stole the idea from Neil Van Niekerk :) who is the master at this; and has made a nice career with 50 cents worth of craft foam and bounce flash :)

http://neilvn.com/tangents/the-black-foamie-thing/

bkyser Loc: Fly over country in Indiana

How does one start a new section on the hog?

I really think a tutorial section would be friggin awesome. I think several of us found this site, by clicking on the pop up that said something like "learn photographic tricks" or something like that. Been too long. There really isn't just one section for doing that.

rpavich and some others really go above and beyond, and I think all these lessons easier to find would be exactly what brings newbies to this site.

RolandComfort Loc: Saint Louis

I agree, ceiling bounce and wall or door bounce works great if you want to kill shadows. Actually, I usually use two flashes aimed at the ceiling about 6 feet apart to get the effect of a huge softlight. In this photo I used only 1 flash in the hall aimed at the ceiling straight over the camera but also stuck flashes in in the upstairs bath, hall, downstairs dining room, and I don't know where else, total 5 speedlights. Ceiling bounce rocks!

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

RolandComfort wrote:

I agree, ceiling bounce and wall or door bounce works great if you want to kill shadows. Actually, I usually use two flashes aimed at the ceiling about 6 feet apart to get the effect of a huge softlight. In this photo I used only 1 flash in the hall aimed at the ceiling straight over the camera but also stuck flashes in in the upstairs bath, hall, downstairs dining room, and I don't know where else, total 5 speedlights. Ceiling bounce rocks!

That is so very well done...very very nice!

SqBear Loc: Kansas, (South Central)

rpavich, can you show us the "snoot" that was on your flash used in photo #2 please? I found the term rather interesting and googled it and found lots of snoot pictures...very interesting. The night shots were remarkable too from what I saw.
Thanks
Dave

RolandComfort Loc: Saint Louis

Thanks, I started out shooting real estate using umbrellas, but figured out that ceiling bounce was quicker and a lot better. Small rooms like bathrooms get a flash using a black 3 inch snoot that limits light to about a 3 foot circle on the ceiling anywhere out of sight of the camera.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

SqBear wrote:

rpavich, can you show us the "snoot" that was on your flash used in photo #2 please? I found the term rather interesting and googled it and found lots of snoot pictures...very interesting. The night shots were remarkable too from what I saw.
Thanks
Dave

I used this one
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BFZHO4/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_SC_dp_1

But you can make one also, (I have and this works great)

http://ph33lx.wordpress.com/2010/07/02/diy-grid-snoot/

SqBear Loc: Kansas, (South Central)

rpavich wrote:

I used this one
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BFZHO4/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_SC_dp_1

But you can make one also, (I have and this works great)

http://ph33lx.wordpress.com/2010/07/02/diy-grid-snoot/

Thanks, again, I've learned something today about "snoot" flash and how to use the flash properly! Amazing!

I too agree with one of the members in this thread (can't get back to the name at the moment) but I agree with him. Let's start a new category of DIY or how to links.?
(Is NSA listening?)
Dave

Marianne Loc: Anacortes WA

This is most informative. Thank you for all your efforts and for sharing your knowledge.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

RolandComfort wrote:

.... Ceiling bounce rocks!

Very nicely balanced wide angle shot. That would not have been possible with a single flash.

This also shows why you might not want to bounce off a wall for color shots unless the wall is white or light gray (ceilings usually are white). For B&W, any light colored wall can work.

Rustybucket Loc: England

rpavich wrote:

I used this one
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BFZHO4/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_SC_dp_1

But you can make one also, (I have and this works great)

http://ph33lx.wordpress.com/2010/07/02/diy-grid-snoot/

You did a great job on the snoot. I'm a great believer in saving money and making home-made whenever you can. It's very satisfying to get the desired effect without it costing big bucks :-). What sort of subjects work well using your snoot.