ptcanon3ti Loc: NJ

Yes. I would agree, something must be wrong. Probably vibration in your tripod…although I can't imagine it vibrating more than hand holding a camera.

scootersurfs Loc: Buckeye, Az

Yes, I understand that. I think the live view at 10X was the best tip.

Andrew's_Wildlife

I've had tripod vibration photographing the moon. I use spot metering and that exposes it well.

If your camera permits, try to fine-tune the autofocus in your menu. Try different settings. It's an in camera option to be used with a tool like Lens Align.

ptcanon3ti Loc: NJ

Yah…that's huge for focus accuracy. :)

Elliern Loc: Myrtle Beach, SC

Thank you, that is kind. (it is the first photo I ever posted anywhere)

Yes, I did crop it and I kinda used a tripod. I don't attach my sx50 to my tripod, but I set it on it to steady the camera. I only have one attachment plate for my tripod and it is connected to my dslr at the moment. I only turned off my IS once. Probably because I don't actually attach it to the tripod, the IS on is fine. I also have rested my camera on the outdoor stairway... in fact any time I can rest it on a stationary item I do. I also rest my body or arms against a building, tree or anything solid. However, most of the time I just hand hold the camera, "smashing" it into my face.
I am still learning how to use the sx50, but it sure is fun to use. I love taking photos of flowers, insects and birds. And it is so nice to grab it and go. I have been taking pictures with it every day since I got it about 6 weeks ago.

I have never used the digital zoom. On clear nights when the moon seems closer, I go out and take about 3 photos each on various settings: manual, av, tv and even did some in sports mode. Then I select the best one to crop and 'maybe' use the clarity or light or shadow adjustment in LR. I am not experienced at all in LR and can only do very basic adjustments. So I only keep photos that are pretty sharp to begin with. I plan to take a LR class in Jan. and will watch the tutorial that someone posted earlier today.

I bought a Manfrotto tripod that was on sale at Best Buy for under a $100. It is light but sturdy enough for my cameras.

Haydon

I was really impressed with SX50 image.

Bloke Loc: Waynesboro, Pennsylvania

Well, I think you should post some more!

I have a really cheap tripod, which at the moment is 'dedicated' to my camcorder. I want to get a better one, as soon as the finances recover from the purchase of the camera!

I have always read that the digital zoom is to be avoided, but I have seen some shots on here from other SX50s, where the results have been pretty good. I want to try using it, and comparing the results with not using it and cropping in. Trouble is, mine is turned off and I can't find how to turn it back on. I really *hate* the pdf manual, and have been struggling to find out how to turn this back on. It is greyed out on my menu, and the book doesn't mention this - at least in the bits I have found so far!

I want to try my hand at the macro stuff, too...

BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

PLEASE POST SAMPLE PHOTO(S)!

Bret Loc: Dayton Ohio

Here's a couple recent shots I took with this new lens I purchased a few weeks ago. Both shots handheld taken with a Nikon D5100 and 300mm F4D...processed with ViewNX. Not the best shots but hey...ya gotta start somewhere and practice...practice...practice.

iso 160 1/200 sec at F13


iso 100 1/320 sec at F11

joer Loc: Colorado/Illinois

There is no one method that is best. If manual controls are not getting it done to your satisfaction, let the camera take over. The end result is all that matters, not how you got there. Here is one approach that works for me and is contrary to what most will advise.

Tripod mount, turn off lens/camera stabilization.
Set meter to spot. If its adjustable set to the smallest area.
Use auto focus (my vision is not the best)
Aperture priority, auto ISO. f5.6 or f8.
Zoom to the longest focal length.
Use a remote trigger or self timer to avoid shake.
Wait for a clear night.
The shadows on the moon are longer and stand out more when it is NOT full.
Bracket one stop in either direction.

The attached image was shot with a Panasonic DMC G5 45-200mm lens at 200nn f5.6 (wide open), 1/320, ISO 800, -0.3 exp. Don't try to match these settings since conditions may be different in your location.

Shoot Raw and post process. Increase contrast, lower exposure, crop and sharpen to suit your taste.

BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

Outstanding example, Joer!

A very basic setting for a half moon is:

EV 12, ISO 100, 1/30, f/11
EV 12, ISO 400, 1/250, f/8 which translates to
EV 12, ISO 800, 1/1000, f/5.6 which when compensate -0.3 stops equals
EV 12, ISO 800, 1/800, f/5.6
EV 11, ISO 800, 1/500, f/5.6

Considering that Joer shot at EV 11, ISO 800, f/5.6, 1/320 which is 1/500 and compensation of -0.7 stops, I'd say, he had the "book" exposure pretty well nailed ( "book less 1.7 stops" ). Considering atmospheric variations, that is a considerable endorsement for trusting the "book" exposure with ±1.5 stop bracketing.

When in doubt shooting the moon, remember that the moon reflects all of the sun's rays except for atmospheric interference*; thus a daylight shot, perhaps with -1.0 stops correction will be very close. Just keep in mind that, because of the sun's to the earth's and moon's relative proximity, there is virtually zero light loss in the vacuum of space.

* If you ever forget this simple relationship, don't feel bad. Forgetting that one fact almost cost Ansel Adams his most profitable shot, Moonrise (over Hernandez).