nederob1 Loc: Brandon, Ms

So is this a good lens or do I need to get either a 105mm or the Tamron 90mm Di 1:1 lens. I took a few pics of my mother inside and actually they were very good. What did any of you think about my sample pictures

Jambulee Loc: San Antonio del Mar,Tijuana,Mex

I liked your samples very much and you should go with the 1:1 it is a great lens and save you the need of extension tubes or cropping later.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Any true macro lens will deliver good images as long as your technique is good. More emphasis should be placed on what your intended subjects will be & your budget. 40-60mm focal length is good for static subjects or copy work. 85-105 is a good all around range as it allows for more working distance with mobile subjects & won't break the bank. 150-200mm are great for mobile subjects with their longer working distances, but suffer from increased weight, heft & cost....Don't get caught up obsessing over gear, the lens will be fine. You will find if you ask what macro lens to get, everyone will recommend whichever lens it is they have. That just goes back to the fact that any of them will deliver...You don't say what camera the lens will be used on. That can possibly make a difference to you...I use an older 105mm macro, but I use it on a Nikon D300 & a Nikon D7100, both of which will meter with older glass. Base model cameras won't...That said, most of the older macro images on my Flickr photo stream were taken with a Nikon D70s & the older manual focus macro lens (the camera neither metered or auto focused with manual lenses)....Just goes to show you that it isn't always about the latest & greatest gear...Older, used gear will save you money

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

Scott is correct. The OP referenced the Tamron 90 f/2.5. It is a 1:2 mag lens. The version I have is not AF. I used it on my old FA-- and later on my D300.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

My suggestion:
1.) Set lens to manual focus;
2.) Turn collar to Minimum Focusing Distance;
3.) Move camera/lens combo towards subject until in focus;
4.) Take photograph. This will be 1:2 magnification (1/2 life-size on sensor).
5.) Do this several times with live insects, very small flower, etc.

Note what you can actually capture as a stand alone lens. To double the captured subject size, you will need to add substantial Extension Tube length, or buy a 1:1 macro lens. Only you can decide if the older glass is worth the hassle.

nederob1 Loc: Brandon, Ms

Thanks everyone I see what I need to do. Scott you have some great pics online. How do you get everything in focus instead of just a spot.. Is it that I'm using only one focus point instead of the 39. What AF do u you af-a, af-s, af-c, i've been using af-s with spot metering. Thanks for evryones info DeWayne

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Thanks ! I manually focus all of my shots. I never use AF for macro...Plus I use additional light (ring light) so as to be able to use as small an aperture as possible...

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

One other thing that Scott does, and other great macro shooters on here, is to take care with the alignment of the critter, keeping it tangent to the lens. This helps with keeping as much as possible within the critical, narrow DOF. This (and tons of practice) are the constants in the excellent work I see on here. My opinion is that anyone can copy the "pre-sets" recommended on here-- the rest is finding, focusing, practice....

napabob Loc: Napa CA

I concur, after a while the lengthening list becomes muscle memory

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

Keep in mind that there is no "point" of focus; there is a plane of focus, tangent to the lens. The smaller the aperture, the deeper the DoF. Optimum is usually f/16, because 'small aperture diffraction' starts to degrade IQ around f/22.

I use a small central spot for my camera A-F for macro, which is better than my own eyes. Most macro-photographers only manual focus. Forget multi focus points for macro-photography.

nederob1 Loc: Brandon, Ms

what this mean- the alignment of the critter, keeping it "tangent to the lens".

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

The insect's body should be parallel to the front of the lens element...As in a profile image as opposed to a head on image...

nederob1 Loc: Brandon, Ms

Thanks again