nekon Loc: Carterton, New Zealand

Two points:
1. the palm of your hand reads zone VII, one stop lighter than 18% grey-so you will need to close down one stop.

2. your camera can give incident light readings, by attaching an "expodisc", (about $100), or what I use: one thickness of white coffee filter, cut to fit, and fixed between two screw-on uv filters-gives perfect results every time, and doubles as a white balance filter-just attach to lens and point at light source.

Brucej67 Loc: Cary, NC

On number 1, does race matter, white, black, red or yellow?

nekon Loc: Carterton, New Zealand

No

photoninja1 Loc: Tampa Florida

Since moving to digital, I've not used a handheld light meter. The camera meter is more than adequate for 85% of my shooting. The other pictures may just require a second shot. All in all, I save a great deal of time operating like this. With regard to flash, I set my kickers with a test shot or two, and use the result to manage the main. The approach takes a little experience to pull off, but it works for me.

Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.

I still have that model of Bowens
with a needle that one has to zero before taking a reading, as a back-up, should the later model ever let me down.

Bugfan Loc: Toronto, Canada

I have a Gossen Luna Six from the seventies when I used to shoot film. That meter has incident light capability as well as reflected light spot meter capability too with an optional gadget I have. This meter I still use once in a while because of its sensitivity. It is able to measure exposures up to eight hours.

I also have the Sekonic L758, a rather more modern design than my Gossen. This meter is not as sensitive which is why I keep the other one but it has a few redeeming features.

It has a built in little telescope for spot metering and it can collect up to eight different readings which it will average on command. I find it handy for averaging different light intensities. The meter also measures and integrates electronic flash with ambient light allowing me to adjust the degree of flash I want or need. And the meter of course measures reflected light and incident light with no problem, something the camera generally can't do. Finally, the meter can be configured for the performance curves associated with the camera I'm using. That is a marginal benefit but still a benefit none the less.

So why use a meter? For me it's for long exposures that the camera cannot measure. It's for averaging different intensities accurately. The camera can only average over the scene or you have to take a variety of spot meter readings and do the calculations yourself. It's for blending flash and ambient light, something the camera does poorly compared to the meter. And of course to measure incident light, the camera after all is designed to measure only reflected light.

That said too though, it does indeed impress anyone who happens to be watching, they seem to feel you have to be a pro. Just make sure that the pictures you take that way are excellent because that's what those who were impressed will expect.

cthahn

Maybe if you would read about the advantages of a light meter, you would understand. There are certain lighting situations where a SLR or any camera can not produce the proper exposure. It goes back to most people want everything to be run by a computer and automatic. You have to understand reflected and incident light. You are probably one that never uses manual or aperture settings on a camera. That also goes for a prime lens. When you learn these, you have full control of the picture that you are taking, otherwise you are letting someone do all the work for you, namely a computer. Some people buy an expensive camera, mainly to impress others, and get frustrated by the poor results that they get. and then blame the camera.

ScottK Loc: Trophy Club, TX

Very well said. Thank you.

I have another question for you.

In other than the light balancing situations, can't the histogram do just as well, especially with ettr? Granted a bit of hit and miss involved?

Thanks

sek

nekon Loc: Carterton, New Zealand

no, and ettr is a misconcept:

Bottom line - ETTR (Expose To The Right) offers improved image quality in only one specific situation - where you can use a lower ISO setting than your camera has. In all other situations, ETTR will only ever decrease image quality.

ScottK Loc: Trophy Club, TX

Thank you!

doogie Loc: Washington

I'm not a master photographer (Student here) by any means but here is my two cents. I still don't do any digital work. I'll get around to it one of these days.

I use a Gossen Luna-pro for everything. I also use a grey card. I still find myself second guessing the Gossen, however, ever since I started using it my exposures have been spot on frame after frame. It has been very helpful. :)

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

The rationale for ETTR has been over-hyped. As you stated, it only improves matters in a small percentage of cases and can make things worse when it is misused.

One of the arguments put forth by the original supporters is that camera manufacturers don't "get it". Actually, they get it better than many might realize. This should be apparent to anyone who shoots raw.

majeskiphoto Loc: Hamilton, Ontario

Since You seem to be the authority on exposure here, you would think one would know that when using the palm of your hand in place of an 18% neutral grey card, you would compensate by Opening up one stop rather than Closing down?

nekon Loc: Carterton, New Zealand

Your palm is one stop LIGHTER, than mid grey, so you need to close down one stop to compensate for this, or use green grass, concrete or dry tarmacadam as your 18% set point

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Other way round.

If the meter recommends 1/250 at f/8 when metering your hand, that setting would make your hand come out the equivalent of middle grey.

If you open up to f/5.6 (or switch to 1/125), you hand will come out one stop lighter than middle grey.