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Not sure how to get the best results taking photo's of the "Snow".
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Jul 2, 2013 10:05:07   #
jenny Loc: in hiding:)
 
Underwaterant wrote:
When exposing for pure white, all
cameras will expose the white image
for 18%mid grey tone.
(Also black as 18% grey)
So, when you expose the image for
the indicated exposure and take the
photo, the image of snow will appear
18% grey. (darker).
So, whatever the camera's IE is, you
MUST close down stops ("f" value),
(usually 2 full stops) so the camera has
more light available to make the camera
"see" the bright white snow as pure white
and not 18% mid grey tone.
This might be by opening up the aperature
2 full stops or shutter speed lowered
2 full stops, or ISO up 2 full stops.
You don't necessarily require a greycard.
I hope this makes sense.

I might see you at Thredbo or
Perisher. I'll be the one with a camera.
When exposing for pure white, all br cameras will... (show quote)

* * * * *
Good explanation underwaterant,but a bit of confusion about "close down stops" when of course opening the lens or adding shutter time was meant.

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Jul 2, 2013 10:17:37   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
OP:
Snow scenes...Can anyone help.?

1.) "...grab a grey card and set a custom white balance.."

2.) "...If your camera can be set up to take sets of bracketed exposures, I recommend you use the feature, setting up for under and over by 1 to 2 stops."

3.) Just set your EV levels up 3/4 to 1 stop

4.) So, whatever the camera's IE is, you MUST close down stops ("f" value), (usually 2 full stops)

5.) I use exposure compensation of 1 1/2 to 2 stops over

6.) I'd suggest exposure compensation of from +1 to +2 stops,

7.) Does your camer have a 'snow scene' mode? Use it!!!



And I get ragged on by certain folks for suggesting that buying a hand held light meter is a good suggestion? :)

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Jul 2, 2013 10:50:44   #
jenny Loc: in hiding:)
 
Yes! And rightly so! Some of these replies are by people who haven't learned to use their camera meters,others a bit thoughtless. Of course you had to learn your incident meter too didn't you? And when people sing,do they sing only one note? Would you advise a math student to use a calculator?
There is one thing that separates a photographer from a snapshooter and that is learning to use a camera,THINKING,
not P&S and "hope for the best".
So why don't you tell them how to use their built-in camera meters instead of sending them off on some other "fork in the road"?

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Jul 2, 2013 10:54:12   #
jenny Loc: in hiding:)
 
Hey look folks, if you REALLY have a hard time exposing snow and white bridal gowns get yourself a nice gray card!!
(It works for anything else as well including licorice sticks and your black cat.)

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Jul 2, 2013 10:57:49   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
jenny wrote:
Yes! And rightly so! Some of these replies are by people who haven't learned to use their camera meters,others a bit thoughtless.


Lol...I don't know how you know that they don't know what they are talking about....I wonder which one is clueless about what to do?

Can you point to the advice that's off the mark?

Quote:
Of course you had to learn your incident meter too didn't you?


Sure, I took it out of the box. I pushed the button and read what it said and then I set my camera up accordingly.

Why is this relevant to my comment exactly?


Quote:
And when people sing,do they sing only one note? Would you advise a math student to use a calculator?
There is one thing that separates a photographer from a snapshooter and that is learning to use a camera,THINKING,
not P&S and "hope for the best".


None of this rant has anything to do with my point..I'll skip it.


Quote:

So why don't you tell them how to use their built-in camera meters instead of sending them off on some other "fork in the road"?


Because it's a good, solid, viable solution (incident metering) that really helps people to learn about metering, understand metering, and get better at predicting how the light will affect their exposure...instead of the conflicting voodoo advice that gets thrown about here. The fact is...a meter is precise and repeatable...something that the shoot-guess-chimp method certainly is not.

But of course, I've said exactly this about a dozen times in previous exchanges with you...I had hoped you wouldn't use the same tired arguments.

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Jul 2, 2013 11:02:31   #
jenny Loc: in hiding:)
 
RANT?

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Jul 2, 2013 11:25:24   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
jenny wrote:
RANT?


Yes....rant.

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Jul 2, 2013 11:33:38   #
jenny Loc: in hiding:)
 
rpavich wrote:
Yes....rant.


You do seem to rant a lot don't you.10111 msgs. must be some record for ranting and never getting the point. You nip at my heels like your silly avatar. :) :)

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Jul 2, 2013 11:35:05   #
jenny Loc: in hiding:)
 
BTW, your 3 yrs. experience with photography qualifies you to try to teach anyone else?

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Jul 2, 2013 11:36:24   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
jenny wrote:
You do seem to rant a lot don't you.10111 msgs. must be some record for ranting and never getting the point. You nip at my heels like your silly avatar. :) :)


Yawn...anything constructive to add to the discussion or is this your typical insult fest we are going to be treated to?

I pointed out the conflicting advice given (actually at the start of the thread) and suggested that a meter is a good alternative to trying to wade through the conflicting anecdotal advice given.

Simple enough?

You may have the last word, I'm sure what I've intended to illustrate has been illustrated just fine.

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Jul 2, 2013 11:52:48   #
Brian Platt Loc: Poole/Verwood, Dorset, UK
 
Shoot RAW and set the camera to -half ev

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Jul 2, 2013 11:59:27   #
speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho
 
There are lots of ways to do this, get a reading from the palm of your hand for example, or, if you have a blue sky and no clouds, get a reading from the sky (sun in your back), that will give you good exposures 99% of times. Or take a normal reading and use exposure compensation accordingly (probably opening at least by one full stop).

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Jul 2, 2013 16:17:47   #
RichieC Loc: Adirondacks
 
JoeV wrote:
Good advice so far. One quibble. Yes, auto white balance and custom white balance with a grey card...good ideas. However, for some shots you might want to use other settings to bring out the blues in the shadows, or to capture the evening glow on the snow. Sometimes you WANT to get color casts on the snow, and AWB will work against you.

RE. the battery in the cold. Keep a spare battery close to your body, e.g in an inside pocket to keep it warm. When photographing in cold weather, between photo ops, when I am walking around, I slip the camera under my half open jacket. This keeps a bit warm, but, since I keep the jacket half open, it doesn't fog up. (Dress in layers)

And speaking of fogging up. If it's cold, be careful not to breathe on your viewfinder or lens. Also keep in mind that when you come in, the cold camera will collect ondensation and it will take a while for that to clear off.
Good advice so far. One quibble. Yes, auto white... (show quote)


I have several large zip lock bags and some dry scrap desiccant bags stored in my camera bag, before entering a warm environment from a cold one, slip camera in zip lock bag and seal, condensation will form on bag instead of camera-lenses, etc.

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Jul 2, 2013 17:24:02   #
Underwaterant
 
djtravels wrote:
I think the exact opposite is true. You will need to underexpose, or set your EV 1 to 1-1/2 below normal. Shoot EARLY or LATE. Use a CPL. Purple in the shadows is good. :-D :-D DJT


Underexposing will make the white snow darker.

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Jul 2, 2013 17:30:33   #
Underwaterant
 
Karenn wrote:
Visiting my son in a few weeks in Jindabyne which is part of the Snowy Mountains in Australia, and I want to get the right advise for taking shots of the snow..... What things to check for with the camera and settings etc. I have also been told that the batteries flatten quickly in the cold climate. Can anyone help.


When going from a warm climate to cold, or vise verse, put it in a plastic bag for about 30 min. and the condensation will end up on the plastic bag.
Don't be afraid to use a flash.

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