Perplexed by Pop-Up Flash
Apr 25, 2013 07:21:27 #
Apr 25, 2013 07:55:20 #
Mogul wrote:
Which 300 do you have. I don't believe any focus closer than 4.8 feet.
I have the 28-300 3.5-5.6.
Apr 25, 2013 08:10:15 #
Mogul wrote:
Which 300 do you have. I don't believe any focus closer than 4.8 feet.
Actually the Nikon 28-300mm focuses down to 18" at all focal lengths, one of its many nice features.
Apr 25, 2013 08:21:40 #
sportyman140 wrote:
The flash is controlled by Aperture and the Ambient light is controlled by Shutter Speed. You Shutter speed was too high and/or Aperture was closed too much. Got a Shutter speed instead of 1/60 to 1/4 or more. Your aperture is probably as low as it can go so change your SS and also raise you ISO to 200 or 400. That should help allot. I would read the Book by Bryan Peterson "Understanding Flash Photography" It will help allot.
Not entirely true, that works if he is shooting his flash in manual mode. If on the other hand he is using TTL, his camera will simply tell the flash to use less power as he slows his shutter, resulting in the same exposure.
Apr 25, 2013 08:27:59 #
saichiez
Loc: Beautiful Central Oregon
With the lens fully extended, at short distances the light from the flash is lighting the top of the end of the lens. The light is not reaching the subject because the lens is in the way. It is not necessary for a hood to be in the way. The end of the lens is in the path of the light.
It would be resolved by using a taller "on camera flash" than the popup flash. It would also be resolved by using off camera flash to get away from the extension of the lens obscuring the flash and rendering dark exposure.
It's also exacerbated by the change in exposure values by having the flash up, and yet not actually having the light reach the subject because the end of the lens is in the way.
The extreme length of the zoom lens and the low point of the flash sitting just atop the eyepoint of the camera create this contradiction of the light actually NOT reaching the subject because of the end of the lens.
The popup flash is a POS on most camera's if you are shooting short focal distances. Get the point of flash higher up than the popup is, or away from the lens by OFF the camera. Popup flashes have this problem, plus they also introduce "red eye" which is why so much emphasis in software is placed on reducing redeye, and why you see portrait photographers using Off camera flash, such as camera brackets which put off camera flash units somewhat above the eyepoint and centerpoint of the lens.
There is nothing new or weird in this post. This is a common problem... long lens, short shot, combined with low flash position. Gee, this was a problem with film as well... It's the simple physics of light and optics.
Note that most high end early DSLR's did not have popup flashes. That was not a "cheapness" issue.
Popup flashes were added to Pro level camera's because of the whiny insistance of misinformed consumers.
"Wheeeeree Iiiis my Popup flash.. I paid a lot of money, so Wheeeere Iiiiis my Popup flash..."
Real photographers use real lighting.
It would be resolved by using a taller "on camera flash" than the popup flash. It would also be resolved by using off camera flash to get away from the extension of the lens obscuring the flash and rendering dark exposure.
It's also exacerbated by the change in exposure values by having the flash up, and yet not actually having the light reach the subject because the end of the lens is in the way.
The extreme length of the zoom lens and the low point of the flash sitting just atop the eyepoint of the camera create this contradiction of the light actually NOT reaching the subject because of the end of the lens.
The popup flash is a POS on most camera's if you are shooting short focal distances. Get the point of flash higher up than the popup is, or away from the lens by OFF the camera. Popup flashes have this problem, plus they also introduce "red eye" which is why so much emphasis in software is placed on reducing redeye, and why you see portrait photographers using Off camera flash, such as camera brackets which put off camera flash units somewhat above the eyepoint and centerpoint of the lens.
There is nothing new or weird in this post. This is a common problem... long lens, short shot, combined with low flash position. Gee, this was a problem with film as well... It's the simple physics of light and optics.
Note that most high end early DSLR's did not have popup flashes. That was not a "cheapness" issue.
Popup flashes were added to Pro level camera's because of the whiny insistance of misinformed consumers.
"Wheeeeree Iiiis my Popup flash.. I paid a lot of money, so Wheeeere Iiiiis my Popup flash..."
Real photographers use real lighting.
Apr 25, 2013 08:31:52 #
Apr 25, 2013 08:40:50 #
I had the same problem with my D80. When I went to the auto side of the camera it worked fine. I found out that I it in the camonder mode on my menu and when I swithched to ttl it worked fine. I guess when you have it in the camander mode you need another flash to cammand. - Dave
Apr 25, 2013 08:55:15 #
Apr 25, 2013 10:40:51 #
lporrel
Loc: California
If you can set ISO to auto, then you can set shutter speed and aperture and still get the right exposer if things are too dark. For example, if I am taking a shot of my two toddlers riding scooters in the evening, moving in and out of shadows, and I want a deeper depth of field (so I can have them both in focus), I can set the shutter speed to, say 1/200, aperture to f/11, and let the auto ISO fluctuate up and down as needed to deal with the changing light.
tbell7D wrote:
I'm glad to know that my suggestion was helpful. Honestly, this was a bit of guess work on my part. With that said, I would like to know why you would set your ISO to "auto". My 7D also has this feature, but I have never used it. What advantage might this option offer? Thanks in advance.
Apr 25, 2013 11:22:49 #
Bear2
Loc: Southeast,, MI
"Real photographers use real lighting"
What is the difference if I occasionally use off camera flashes before the shot, and you use photoshop after the fact?
What is the difference if I occasionally use off camera flashes before the shot, and you use photoshop after the fact?
Apr 25, 2013 13:18:04 #
quonnie wrote:
Just sitting around in front of a nice fire on a c... (show quote)
I do my on board, indoor flash at 1/200 (sync) and either let the camera decide the f/stop or f/5.2 depending on the subject and my proximity to that subject.
Underexposed with the flash tells me there could be some light colors in your pillow and the camera reacted to them considering that the flash would fire.
Apr 25, 2013 16:11:51 #
Bear2 wrote:
"Real photographers use real lighting"
What is the difference if I occasionally use off camera flashes before the shot, and you use photoshop after the fact?
What is the difference if I occasionally use off camera flashes before the shot, and you use photoshop after the fact?
Not getting your point. You say you use a flash before you hit the shutter release, not sure what good that would do? Do you mean you will add constant light before you shoot?
Also not sure what a flash has to do with Photoshop in PP?
strikerazde requesting you elaborate more!
Apr 25, 2013 17:06:06 #
quonnie wrote:
Just sitting around in front of a nice fire on a c... (show quote)
I would check the flash sync speed in the menu. Could be too high?
Also, not sure about the D600, but can you adjust the flash sync mode? That may be set wrong.
Cheers
Apr 25, 2013 17:24:47 #
saichiez
Loc: Beautiful Central Oregon
Bear2 wrote:
"Real photographers use real lighting"
What is the difference if I occasionally use off camera flashes before the shot, and you use photoshop after the fact?
What is the difference if I occasionally use off camera flashes before the shot, and you use photoshop after the fact?
Sorry... wasn't referring to real flash vs photoshop... was referring to the toy popup flash that is on the camera. It is not high enough to shoot close focus with a long lens. The flash been is obscured by the end of the zoom lens. It's not difficult to figure that out, and it's not unique to digital. It was the same for film.
Go ahead and light your shots in photoshop... if that works for you.
Apr 25, 2013 17:28:01 #
After reading your post again, I decided to do some experimenting myself. So I attached my Sigma 120-400 mm lens, set camera to "M", shutter to 1/125, and left ISO at my "standard" 640, and activated the popup flash. By the way, this lens extends 8.25 in. out from the camera. In a nearly dark room and with lens zoomed out to 400 mm, I got very good results at f9 and f10 with the subject at a distance of about 16 ft.
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