bobbym
Loc: Portadown co Armagh Ireland
MarthaMary wrote:
bobbym wrote:
hope this helps
How did you do that?????
J I used hdr afact in cs6
I certainly appreciate the awesome possibilities of Photoshop, etc. And this has been an interesting exercise...But...to me, it seems yet another proof that we should all just strive to get it right the first time. Learn, study, play with your camera with the goal of spending less and less time in front of a computer. I fully understand the programs in relation to run and gun/action photography but static subjects...like the Christmas tree in the living room shot we have the miracle of instant feedback right there on the back of your camera...just go to Manual and make adjustment to suit...tweek on the computer....
planepics
Loc: St. Louis burbs, but originally Chicago burbs
Geez, none of my other post have gotten even 1/2 the response as this one has (some other people's have gotten dozens of pages though) ! I appreciate the various opinions and am somewhat (almost embarrassingly) entertained at the bickering among several of the hogs. The 3 mirror shots are a really neat example of the effect of a diffuser on a flash. Depending on the check I get for retroactive pay on a union contract, I'll either buy a hot-shoe flash, rent a more expensive lens for my cruise next summer or save for a college photography course.
I used to shoot graduation photos and when the students were all lined up in a hallway before entrance it was best way to light up faces without everyone having red eye.
Stupid questions don't exist. Smartass, dumbass answers are cheap.
#1 Move to the use spot metering meter off of the tree it self, hold the shutter release halfway down lock metering, and move back and take the shot. #2 Use a flash to illuminate the tree. #3 Use post processing to lighten the exposure.
By recomposing they mean if your meter is center weighted you place the center on the subject you want correctly metered, then holding the shutter button down half way you move the position of the subject in the viewfinder to where you want it for best composition then finish pushing down the shutter release to capture the image. You don't walk forward or backward as that would change the metered area and result.
planepics wrote:
How does one go about setting up the exposure of a shot when there is such a huge difference in light values? See example.
Flash to fill the room and reduce the huge difference. Also turn on every lamp in the room.
planepics wrote:
How does one go about setting up the exposure of a shot when there is such a huge difference in light values? See example.
Maybe if you just closed the blinds. Wow what challenge.
The next time I really need some help I'll be sure to use the words somewhere in the topic, 'Stupid Question!' Lol! To brighten the room without flash, you should be able to hand hold by using a lower fstop for the most light and a lower shutter speed 1/30 or less, up your exposure and bump your ISO up a little as well. However, you will lose the clarity of the snow scene outside. Fill Flash set as low as it will go is really your best bet to maintain the outside scene. Trying to resolve this issue with post processing will only be frustrating.
Harvey you did a great job processing the images Bravo.
planepics wrote:
Depending on the check I get for retroactive pay on a union contract, I'll either buy a hot-shoe flash, rent a more expensive lens for my cruise next summer or save for a college photography course.
A more expensive lens
still leaves you with the same exposure challange in the example you provided. I read here time and time again about people wanting faster glass so they can avoid using flash. I suspect a number of them actually are afraid of using flash because they don't know how to use it. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet. If you learn to use it effectively, flash can improve the quality of your photos and look very natural w/o resorting to elaborate measures in post-processing.
planepics
Loc: St. Louis burbs, but originally Chicago burbs
The lens rental would not be for better light gathering, but optical quality/faster focusing for a vacation/birthday cruise through Alaska's inside passage in June. All the better for taking pics of breaching whales or calving glaciers. I will probably buy a flash at some point to augment or replace my pop-up camera flash, but I wouldn't get Sony's +-$500 flash...maybe one for between $50 and $100.
mgstrawn wrote:
The next time I really need some help I'll be sure to use the words somewhere in the topic, 'Stupid Question!' Lol! To brighten the room without flash, you should be able to hand hold by using a lower fstop for the most light and a lower shutter speed 1/30 or less, up your exposure and bump your ISO up a little as well. However, you will lose the clarity of the snow scene outside. Fill Flash set as low as it will go is really your best bet to maintain the outside scene. Trying to resolve this issue with post processing will only be frustrating.
The next time I really need some help I'll be sure... (
show quote)
Personally, I regularly use ISO 400, aperture priority at f/8, spot exposure meter mode on the window scene and hold that setting with the shutter button half down while coming back to the center of the composition, then let TTL auto fill flash do it's thing bounced off the ceiling. The blinds negatively affect the combination of indoors and outdoors in the example but it still shows the technique.
Example
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