Basil Loc: New Mexico

Conflicting / confusing exposure suggestions for Baily's beads. Also, confused about the Diamond Ring.

Two very prominent names in the solar eclipse photography world are Fred Espenak (Mr Eclipse) and Xavier Jubier (creator of solar eclipse timer software).

Fred has a suggested Eclipse settings chart where you pick your ISO and F-stop, then it suggests best shutter speed. Xavier has an online tool where you enter your ISO and f-stop and it suggests best shutter speeds.

For Baily's Beads, Fred's chart, at ISO 100 and f8, suggests a shutter speed of 1/4000th, but Xavier's tool suggests 2/3 stop faster at 1/6400 (note these speeds are with filter off).

For the Diamond ring, both the chart and the tool suggest the same: 1/125th

Discussion: What are your thoughts on the Baily's beads settings? would you shoot at 1/6400 (pretend you're using ISO 100 and f8) as Xavier's tool suggests, or would you slow the shutter speed to 1/4000 (which would move the exposure 2/3 to the right)? I'm conflicted. I will be shooting High Speed shutter and don't want to bracket because the R5 will only shoot the bracketed shots then stop unless you release the shutter and re-press it again, which I don't want to have to do.

Also: I'm a bit confused about what is called the "Diamond Ring" effect. Many resources seem to imply that the Diamond Ring is the bright bit just before Baily's beads, but then I've seen other resources that suggest that Baily's beads occurs just at the end of Baily's beads. In both Freds chart and Xavier's online tool, the recommended shutter speed is significantly slower than what they recommend for Baily's beads. This would suggest that they are referring to the latter definition of Diamond Ring" that would be at the end of the Beads and thus have less light. Otherwise, if the Diamond ring is what occurs before the Beads, why would you be shooting so much slower when there would be much more light? I'm confused. Thoughts?

Orphoto Loc: Oregon

Pick 'em. As to the exposure difference, a 2/3 stop change if shooting raw just doesn't matter. I would err on the side of not overexposing, and hence choose the faster one.

Basil Loc: New Mexico

Thanks. That's my inclination too WRT Baily's Beads (or maybe split the difference). But why such a slow shutter speed being suggested for the Diamond ring? That's what's really got me confused. Hoping someone with more experience than I, who has shot total eclipses before, explain that one to me. (I've only shot a total eclipse once - in 2017)

cahale Loc: San Angelo, TX

How about everyone who photographs the next eclipse posts their results with equipment and settings. Pick the best and you have your guide. Hang on to it- there will be eclipses in the future.

Basil Loc: New Mexico

I'll certainly do that. I probably won't be around to see another eclipse, so I'm asking for help now. This was my shot in 20217, but I didn't catch Baily's Beads or Diamond ring, which is what I'm asking about.

Judy795

My understanding from reading and watching numerous videos is that Diamond Ring, 1st Baileys Beads,totality, 2nd Balileys Beads, and 2nd Diamond Ring.
I am bracketing Baileys Beads from 1/1600 down to 1 or 1.5 seconds, and Diamond ring at 1/250 more or less. All at F/8 and 100 iso. I also have the eclipse app Solar Eclipse Timer, that alerts me to each phase, if it works.

Basil Loc: New Mexico

I've seen many videos and descriptions that describe it exactly the opposite. Hence my confusion. For example, this site: https://www.timeanddate.com/eclipse/diamond-ring.html which has a very good interactive eclipse map, describes it this way:

Judy795

I mistyped and corrected it.

808caver Loc: Maui

Aloha These are the settings I have used successfully for past total eclipses, this can be used as a base set of settings and adjusted for your brand of solar filter. I will be using Nikon gear. Good luck and have fun!!



TOTAL ECLIPSE EXPOSURE SETTINGS

400iso @ F11 Seymour Solar filters

Partial phases 1/125

Diamonds Ring 1/250

Baileys Beads 1/2000 RAW

Proms 1/500 RAW

Inner Corona 1/125 RAW

Totality 1/30 RAW

Outer Corona 1/2 RAW

Totality Bracket 9 1 stop RAW
Shutter Times 1/1000 1/500 1/125 1/60 1/30 1/15 1/8 1/4 1/2

petrochemist Loc: UK

The suggested settings for Baileys beads are not significantly different. They could simply stem for the cameras used (several of my digital cameras can't shoot faster than 1/4000 - I don't think any of my film cameras can).

The only total eclipse I've seen (back in 1999 as I'm in Europe) I couldn't use anything faster than 1/1000, which didn't overexpose the negative -using a 500mm f/8 mirror lens & film of 100asa (or possibly slightly more)

BobPeterson Loc: Massachusetts

Here's a good explanation from Hudson Henry.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbpB7DNa6TA&t=2045s

JBRIII

It's a long time until another in the US, 2044 in Alaska in March and one much like 2017 in 2045.
If you travel out of country: 2026, Spain, 2027, Egypt, then several in Australia.

jkm757 Loc: San Diego, Ca.

Hi, Basil
These are two shots from the 2017 eclipse. The settings for both shots were 1/400ss, f/8, ISO 200.

(Download)


(Download)

Judy795

Wow!

Drbobcameraguy Loc: Eaton Ohio

Baileys beads are flashes of bright light reflected off mountains or peaks on the moon. Nasa actually has an app to use so they can put together enough data to see how non circular the sun actually is. So I'm not exactly sure why anyone else is interested in Bailey's beads but I'm a little slow and have a few problems. Lol.