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Back to the Future - manual focusing on mirrorless
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Feb 3, 2024 14:37:09   #
topcat Loc: Alameda, CA
 
maxlieberman wrote:
My first SLR was a Canon AE-1 in 1977 or 1978, followed by an A-1, then a succession of newer ones, culmination in a T90. Then I began to experience presbyopia and decided to move to autofocus. I would have stayed with Canon, but they changed lens mounts and since I would have to buy all new lenses, I made the switch to a Nikon N4004. Have stayed with Nikon since.


Same for me. I am glad that I switched.

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Feb 3, 2024 14:47:26   #
User ID
 
kpsk_sony wrote:
Modern cameras do so much of the focusing. "Stupidity thy name is convenience."

Thaz deep, especially with that "thy" in there.

Id rate it as at least ankle deep at minimum !

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Feb 3, 2024 14:57:58   #
User ID
 
wmurnahan wrote:
I agree, when manually focusing, I miss the split focus aid. I could manual focus way faster and better with it. I hate the feature that temp gives you a close up because I lose where I'm at, I have been using the feature that highlights the focus edges with a color but I miss the spit circle.

If you dont already have a 5DII or a 6D there are still plenty of them around. You can order custom adapted screens for them that simply drop right in.

For SLRs without drop-in screens you can still get a custom screen but youll wind up paying for instalation unless youre handy with small tools for small jobs.

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Feb 3, 2024 15:22:35   #
chrisg-optical Loc: New York, NY
 
CHG_CANON wrote:
Honestly, if you need a center-frame split prism to manually focus on a modern digital technology marvel of a mirrorless camera, you're doing it wrong.

Instead, you should:

a) consider your composition and tap your touch screen to place your AF point of focus as appropriate for the composition, anyplace other than the frame center.

b) raise your camera to your eye in a shooting position and 'pop' the EVF to the 10x zoom of the details where you've set the AF point, aka focus magnification.

c) carefully and precisely focus your MF legacy lens for the details using the 100% zoomed view of the subject.

Capture the image, letting the zoomed view drop back to the full-screen view of the composition. Regarding the colored shimmer showing the plane of focus, aka focus peaking in the mirrorless EVF, this really only works well when MF lens is precisely focused via focus magnification. Go into your user manual and find how to set the peak color (shimmer) to the maximum / extreme / highest setting. Consider using red instead of yellow or white. Once the MF lens is focused for the composition, that shimmering color can now be used to track any subtle changes to the focus (forward or backward) of where the lens is currently focused for the current composition. The 'maximum' setting makes the plane of focus rather obvious in the EVF.

Finally, for focus magnification, consider having this tool assigned on an external button so you 'pop' the EVF by pressing that (re)programmed button, again with the camera held to your eye in a shooting position. Ideally, you can go from 0% zoom to 100% with one press. Alas, you might need to cycle a few steps to the max 100%. Check your User's Manual for confirmation.
Honestly, if you need a center-frame split prism t... (show quote)


You illustrate my point about the simplicity of the old split/micro prism SLR film days....

What you're saying above involves too many buttons and screen interactions.

Contrast this with my experience in the film days with my OM cameras -

1. Aim the split/prism on the desired focus point/subject,focus
2. Recompose, if necessary. (Exposure would be A or pre-set on manual).
3. SHOOT!

That's it! 99% of my shots were always in focus. I used lenses from 20 mm up to 500mm (mirror). I would say with the extremes - ULTRA wide or fish eye, and super tele beyond 500mm I would say the prism/split had a disadvantage but that was only due to the optical nature of the focusing screen, which could be circumvented with digital and software these days. The only other issue I had in rare instances would be long-throw lenses (such as the 500mm mirror), but I would get around that with pre-focusing if I could, or just use another lens.

Today, we have gone Rube Goldberg it seems with manual focusing on digital cameras, which is fine, but I think simpler modes should be added to the mix, along with the method you describe above and focus peaking/magnification. It's all about OPTIONS in my book.

So what are the odds that Nikon will add the split/micro prism soft option in their next firmware update ?

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Feb 3, 2024 15:37:48   #
User ID
 
chrisg-optical wrote:
You illustrate my point about the simplicity of the old split/micro prism SLR film days....

What you're saying above involves too many buttons and screen interactions.

Contrast this with my experience in the film days with my OM cameras -

1. Aim the split/prism on the desired focus point/subject,focus
2. Recompose, if necessary. (Exposure would be A or pre-set on manual).
3. SHOOT!

That's it! 99% of my shots were always in focus. I used lenses from 20 mm up to 500mm (mirror). I would say with the extremes - ULTRA wide or fish eye, and super tele beyond 500mm I would say the prism/split had a disadvantage but that was only due to the optical nature of the focusing screen, which could be circumvented with digital and software these days. The only other issue I had in rare instances would be long-throw lenses (such as the 500mm mirror), but I would get around that with pre-focusing if I could, or just use another lens.

Today, we have gone Rube Goldberg it seems with manual focusing on digital cameras, which is fine, but I think simpler modes should be added to the mix, along with the method you describe above and focus peaking/magnification. It's all about OPTIONS in my book.

So what are the odds that Nikon will add the split/micro prism soft option in their next firmware update ?
You illustrate my point about the simplicity of th... (show quote)

You few relics very simply do not constitute a fiscally significant market segment, and that dooms any la-la land misty dreams of a grand return to the ways of ancient inferior devices.

This old Olympus lens now focuses waaaaaay faster and more accurately than it did in 1975.
This old Olympus lens now focuses waaaaaay faster ...
(Download)

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Feb 3, 2024 15:59:33   #
chrisg-optical Loc: New York, NY
 
User ID wrote:
You few relics very simply do not constitute a fiscally significant market segment, and that dooms any la-la land misty dreams of a grand return to the ways of ancient inferior devices.


Cool! I loved OM Zuiko lenses! Relic may be too strong of a word - maybe "nostalgic" or "retro".

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Feb 3, 2024 17:05:11   #
SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA
 
kpsk_sony wrote:
Modern cameras do so much of the focusing. "Stupidity thy name is convenience."


I think everybody here is aware of that. It doesn’t really work with manual focus lenses, which is what this discussion is about.

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