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What's so great about RAW?
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Jan 27, 2024 08:27:15   #
Ysarex Loc: St. Louis
 
paulrnzpn wrote:
I always shoot both.
JPEG files are only 8 bit.
RAW files contain lots more data and are (mostly, I think) 16bit.

Most of our modern cameras in 202x produce 14 bit raw files.
paulrnzpn wrote:
(The difference between 8bit and 16bit is huge.)
Sometimes JPEGs SOOC are good enough, and that's why I shoot both, but it depends of the intended purpose of the photo, and so I like to keep both options open to me for later on.

RAW files can be pushed a lot further in post processing than JPEGs can. When pushed too far, JPEG quality will start to break down - nasty JPEG artifacts begin to appear and so on. That can happen to RAW as well, but you can push RAW a lot further before it happens.
Also, sometimes you see that horrible 'banding' effect in JPEG sunset photos (for example). Well, that is because JPEG is only 8 bit, so it has far less data and far fewer colours. (RAW contains a lot more colors than JPEG files: 68 billion more colours, to be exact! A 12-bit RAW image contains thousands of shades of red, green, and blue, while a 14-bit RAW file contains trillions of possible colours.)
(The difference between 8bit and 16bit is huge.) b... (show quote)

No. A raw file stores only red, green, and blue pixels. There's no yellow pixels or magenta pixels or teal pixels etc. -- just red, green and blue at a bit depth of 14 bits. That 16,384 possible values per each color times three colors (setting aside that there are typically twice as many green pixels as red & blue) for a grand total of 49,152 different colors. Whereas a single pixel in a JPEG has a combined 8 bit value for red, green and blue -- 3 times 8 = 24 bits and so each pixel in a JPEG can be any one of 16,777,216 colors.
When a raw file's CFA is intrepolated off (demosaiced) and the image is converted to an RGB image is when additional color becomes possible through assignment of red, green, and blue values to each pixel. Convert a raw file to RGB and save the result as a JPEG and you get 16,777,216 colors -- way more than enough. It's when we convert and save raw files as a larger bit depth RGB image for further processing (16 bit per pixel typically) that we get a huge number of potential color values but they are only that: potential. 99% of that potential you can't see or print. Saved in the ProPhoto color space as is common they may even contain colors beyond the range of human perception. The potential is there to give us working room to post process the image. When we're finished with post processing it's appropriate to save the final result as an 8 bit (24 bits per pixel) RGB image. That's more than print sufficient.
paulrnzpn wrote:
When I want high quality for printing, I always process from RAW and save as 16bit TIFF to take to the printers. No banding when I do that, and ALL of the colours are in my print.

There'd be no banding from an 8 bit file either if it was created properly.
paulrnzpn wrote:
Also, if you look at the EXIF data of both, you'll likely see that the dpi is different between the two. Two examples:
On my Canon 600D: RAW is 240dpi and JPEG is 72dpi.
On my Canon 5D Mk4: RAW is 350dpi and JPEG is 72dpi.

A stored DPI (PPI) value in EXIF data is meaningless. There are two images below each saved at 640x446 pixels. The EXIF data for one is 10PPI/DPI and for the other 300PPI/DPI -- meaningless as they are both 640x446 pixels.
paulrnzpn wrote:
If all you ever want is small prints (6x4") and to post JPEGs online, and only do a little bit of post processing, then JPEGs are usually perfectly fine.
However, if you want to produce really big very high quality fine art prints, or want to push a lot in post processing, or publish, etc, then RAW is the answer.





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Jan 27, 2024 12:48:23   #
frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.
 
NPSlover wrote:
I am in Apple's Photos app, and have set the photo to "Use RAW as Original". If that's not correct, please educate me. I'm unfamiliar with raw viewer.


If you shoot raw plus jpg, untill you develop the raw, both will look the same. The camera embedded a jpg in the raw. This is what you see when viewing, before editing the raw. The jpg and the the embedded one in the raw are identical.

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Jan 27, 2024 21:17:58   #
paulrnzpn Loc: New Zealand
 
A commercial print publisher will generally require 300dpi or higher. There is a reason for that. Sure, on computer screen you cannot see any difference, I know.

Every time l talk to commercial print publisher they tell me it must be 300dpi or higher.
And I know others who've found the same.

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Jan 28, 2024 00:44:14   #
Ysarex Loc: St. Louis
 
paulrnzpn wrote:
A commercial print publisher will generally require 300dpi or higher. There is a reason for that. Sure, on computer screen you cannot see any difference, I know.

Every time l talk to commercial print publisher they tell me it must be 300dpi or higher.
And I know others who've found the same.

Then when you have a photo printed set the printer DPI to 300. You can do that for any image regardless of the file format.

You previously said this talking about differences between raw and JPEG files:
"Also, if you look at the EXIF data of both, you'll likely see that the dpi is differnt between the two. Two examples:
On my Canon 600D: RAW is 240dpi and JPEG is 72dpi.
On my Canon 5D Mk4: RAW is 350dpi and JPEG is 72dpi."


You seem to be suggesting that difference in DPI values stored in the EXIF data between your camera's raw and JPEG files is significant, substantive -- that it's a meaningful difference. It's not meaningful. Both raw and JPEG files have the same resolution and will make the same size print at the same DPI value. A Canon 5dmkIV produces both a raw file and JPEG from that raw file with 6720 x 4480 pixel resolution. At 300 DPI the converted raw file and any TIFF, PSD, PNG, JPEG etc. saved from that raw file make the same 15 x 22 inch print.

Why did you mention the variance in DPI values stored in the EXIF data between your camera's raw and JPEG files as if it were a meaningful difference?

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Jan 28, 2024 12:56:55   #
frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.
 
paulrnzpn wrote:
A commercial print publisher will generally require 300dpi or higher. There is a reason for that. Sure, on computer screen you cannot see any difference, I know.

Every time l talk to commercial print publisher they tell me it must be 300dpi or higher.
And I know others who've found the same.


I don't know why they dsay that either. It is the resolution of the file that matters. I think they want a minimum dpi of 300 but that can be changed, and if the dpi is too small, they can't make a decent print, and can not raise the dpi.

Resolution of the photo file is what matters, and viewing distance of the photo.

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Jan 28, 2024 16:52:53   #
NPSlover Loc: Woodbury Minnesota
 
frankraney wrote:
If you shoot raw plus jpg, untill you develop the raw, both will look the same. The camera embedded a jpg in the raw. This is what you see when viewing, before editing the raw. The jpg and the the embedded one in the raw are identical.


So how do I access the raw file?

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Jan 28, 2024 16:55:57   #
paulrnzpn Loc: New Zealand
 
Ysarex wrote:


Why did you mention the variance in DPI values stored in the EXIF data between your camera's raw and JPEG files as if it were a meaningful difference?


Well, the only reason I said it is because that's what it is.

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Jan 28, 2024 17:53:09   #
frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.
 
NPSlover wrote:
So how do I access the raw file?


With a raw editor, I use Lightroom. There are others. Bh photo has a list.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/buying-guide/best-photo-editing-software?BI=1372&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAk9itBhASEiwA1my_6yCWCfuqxYLbuEpjmvpWWCgCjY4wbOTwDQyh5XyiOu7pqv5RGFwYixoC2LMQAvD_BwE

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Jan 28, 2024 18:43:12   #
Ysarex Loc: St. Louis
 
paulrnzpn wrote:
Well, the only reason I said it is because that's what it is.

Do you think there is any way in which it matters that the EXIF DPI values between your camera's raw and JPEG files are different?

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Jan 28, 2024 21:51:54   #
paulrnzpn Loc: New Zealand
 
How to find banding.
And how to treat banding.
Here is one technique...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWUolNiVcoU

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Jan 28, 2024 22:39:32   #
Ysarex Loc: St. Louis
 
paulrnzpn wrote:
How to find banding.
And how to treat banding.
Here is one technique...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWUolNiVcoU

Quoting the beginning of the video:
"So what causes banding? Banding is usually caused by super aggressive editing, pulling a color gamut further than it possibly can go or by incorrect export procedures export processes and formats so banding is usually always 99.9 percent of the time caused by you in editing." [my bold]

In other words banding is not caused by the camera saving the image as a JPEG or by the photographer saving the image as a JPEG. Banding is caused by editing errors. I agree with her. It's not a JPEG problem it's an editing problem.

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Jan 29, 2024 04:06:04   #
paulrnzpn Loc: New Zealand
 
Ysarex wrote:
Quoting the beginning of the video:
"So what causes banding? Banding is usually caused by super aggressive editing, pulling a color gamut further than it possibly can go or by incorrect export procedures export processes and formats so banding is usually always 99.9 percent of the time caused by you in editing." [my bold]

In other words banding is not caused by the camera saving the image as a JPEG or by the photographer saving the image as a JPEG. Banding is caused by editing errors. I agree with her. It's not a JPEG problem it's an editing problem.
Quoting the beginning of the video: br " i So... (show quote)


If I find the other video that says otherwise, and explains it in detail, I will share the link.

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Jan 29, 2024 15:32:35   #
topcat Loc: Alameda, CA
 
RAW is to process the picture, JPEG is to use the picture right out of the camera.

I shoot RAW because I love to process my pictures.

I use Elements, which is a poor mans Photoshop. That means that I don't use every picture.

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Feb 1, 2024 13:18:15   #
nikonbrain Loc: Crystal River Florida
 
Ysarex wrote:
In your test shot you exposed the JPEG and the raw file the same. Right there is a potential difference of some consequence. Look at the illustration below of a flowering fruit tree (Canon G7). The camera JPEG is on the left. It's nuked to hell -- wastebasket fodder. But the raw file highlights were not blown out. I set an optimal exposure for the sensor and exposed the sensor to capacity. It's camera make/model specific but for most cameras to get a good JPEG you have to set an exposure than under utilizes the sensor. About how much do you think in the flower photo below? One stop? That's 1/2 the capacity of the sensor.

Look at the second illustration of the pond in the park (Fuji X-T2). Shooting & processing raw lets me take photos you can't take at all shooting JPEG. Same situation as the flowering tree in terms of exposure. The camera JPEG is nuked when the raw file was exposed to fully utilize the sensor. To get a good JPEG with that camera I would have had to reduce exposure -- that reduces SNR and that reduces IQ.

I did something else that you can't do at all shooting JPEG. It's mostly overcast and the foreground is in overcast light but there's blue sky visible. That's two different white balances and so I set two different white balances in separate parts of the photo. You won't find that in your camera's menu.

And that's barely just the beginning.
In your test shot you exposed the JPEG and the raw... (show quote)


Bravo , Very Good examples .

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