ABJanes Loc: Jersey Boy now Virginia

I tend to underexpose such shots in essence (shoot for the highlights--so the lights don't overexpose) and then manipulate the shadows & black point as needed. This shot concerned me due to the vertical banding on the left and the purple hue on the right in the trees. I have shot HDR's in camera but probably should step over the safety line and try a true HDR. I use Elements 2023-4 for PP-ing my Raw Images. Camera Nikon D7200, 35MM f/1.8, f/6.3, ISO 800, 1/80 second handheld. Should have brought my tripod instead of just my mono-pod, which I used, would have allowed for native ISO of 100. I did want the silhouetted walkers as shown.

Any thoughts?
Suggestions?

Thanks so much,
Allyn Janes
from VA

(Download)

R.G. Loc: Scotland

With a monopod and a reasonably steady hand you should have been able to use 1/40s or even lower. But as you say, a tripod would have meant you could use ISO 100 (assuming that there wasn't enough wind to move the branches and lights).

By "true HDR" do you mean exposure bracketing as opposed to in-camera HDR (which gives jpg only)? When using bracketing hand-held you need to watch the shutter speed for the brightest exposure/s. For a +2 exposure the shutter duration will be four times what it is for the 0 exposure. For hand-held shots or for shots with movement within the frame it could result in camera shake or motion blur. A tripod would take care of the camera shake (but not the motion blur).

It's possible that the banding and the purple tint are both jpg artefacts. Are you aware that even if your camera is set to shoot raw it will give only jpg if you're using in-camera HDR?

ABJanes Loc: Jersey Boy now Virginia

I have taken in-camera HDR's--jpegs, I did not for this shot. I would like to try a true raw bracketed HDR and build a composite, a good goal for 2024. My other 2024 is becoming proficient in layer masks and using the refined edge tool with edge detection. Thanks for the good ideas! Damn should have taken my tripod....lazy me. Would-a, Could-a, Should-a.......photography real-time.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

Best of luck with the resolutions. With some cameras, if you want the camera to run through the bracketing sequence automatically you have to use continuous shutter release mode and you have to hold the shutter release down until the sequence is complete. Single shutter release mode enables you to step through the sequence at your own speed.

Further to your original shot, since the lights are small it might have been an idea to just let them blow. Specular highlights look OK blown provided they're not too large. And familiarising yourself with edge detection and refining edges is a good idea. A lot can depend on how well the edges have been detected.