photoman43

My solution it to remove the lens hood when I use a polarizer. I put the hood back on when I take off the polarizer and put it away.

If you must have the hood on, there may be a third party lens hood that has a slot in its side to allow you to rotate the polarizer with the hood on.

Bridges Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA

Purchase a collapsible rubber hood. This screws onto the filter and by rotating the hood, it rotates the filter as well. A second benefit of one of these hoods is that you can seal out extraneous light when photographing through glass. Just hold the hood against the glass and you will find it much better than using a tulip style hood.

toxdoc42

i have circular hoods which mount to the inner threads of the CP, thus, i rotate the entire hood and that rotates the CP.

tgreenhaw

I recently spent time working with a CPL in anticipation of a trip to Japan where i will be taking some photos though a bus window. I have found the CPL is pretty much useless for window reflections. It does make skies more dramatic, but I agree that it can be done better in post unless you're shooting film.

I did however find that if I'm shooting fish in a pond, it worked really well to reject the blue reflection of the sky so I could reach below the surface.

As for the original post, there isn't an east answer other than adjust the filter, then put on the shade.

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

The polarizer IS the filter.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

I believe the OP has both changed their UHH user name and reverted to shooting in JPEG, after having a look at their prior posts. The CPL may be more impactful to their shooting style than my RAW approach.

Alafoto Loc: Montgomery, AL

This is a total digression from the subject, but my pet peeve about college instructors is that Dr. Schnitzelgrubotzky may be a renowned expert in his field, but if he can't speak understandable English, he can't impart that knowledge to me. I could get most of the same information from the text and save the cost of the course.

toxdoc42

I use it in museums a lot, it is great use,you might not get rid of all reflections, but maybe st, depends ng on your exact angle, etc.

Shooting through a bus window is different. There is a special rubber lens hood that you can get which helps.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA

Top-notch shot

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

This is how I do it. EBay is a good source, and have a number them in different thread sizes.

If the rubber hood causes vignetting, use a step up ring and a larger rubber hood.

But this brings up another problem. I have a drawer full of dedicated lens hoods for which I no longer remember which lens they go to.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

You are correct, the lens hood excels at front element and thread protection. Most folks don't realize how hard and resilient the front element is. Sadly there UV or clear filter shatters and they then claim that it kept the front element from doing the same, but the truth is the front element of a lens is very resilient.
Any one who claims that a UV filter make good protection for the front element of a lens needs to see this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0CLPTd6Bds

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

Neat idea! Can't hurt in holding the camera either!

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Several of my B&W CP filters can easily be turned with the tip of one of my finger on the front edge of the filter, if the hood is on, as long as it is not a deep hood, I can easily turn the CP filer while looking through my viewfinder. My B&W filters are ribbed on the front edge making it easy to grip the filter and turn it with one finger. NOT THE MIDDLE ONE.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Much ado about nothing?

I can understand the inconvenience of attempting to precisely and and visually operate and adjust the effect of a CLP filter with a lens shade in place. There are, however certain aspects of photography that require time and patience. My first reaction to the question is "Don't be lazy and remove and replace the filter and shade as required". After all, it's no big deal if you are shooting a static subject- architecture, landscapes, cars at an automotive show, still life, etc.

If you are utilizing your CPL filter in hand-held rapid-fire shooting, you will need to create an adaption that is not complicated or cumbersome.

Of course, there are simple adaptations using a rubber lens shade attached to the female threads (on the front of some filters) or carefully removing the rubber component from its ring and somehow affixing it to the outer rim of the filter.

I have several square filter holders made by Cokin, that allow for the rotation of a polarizing filter (also made by Cokin) with knurled rims, that also can be fitted with a lens shade.

Obviously, the CPL filter and the shade must be compatible with the focal length in use so as to avoid vignetting.

I must admit that I am a bit of a hoarder when it comes to old lens attachments- I have a drawer full of assorted step-up and step-down rings, adapter rings, and old lens shades and frames from discarded filters. It is easy and fun to rig up just about any practical configuration.

Visual observation of the exact effect of polarization is far more precise and easier than doing the geometry and trying to figure out the exact degree of reflection negation, saturation, sky-darkening effect, and the effect on glass and water. There are many possible incremental settings between no major effect and maximum polarization. Trust your eyes!